Roy

Yeh, but with the plenum and E85 with the baby 256/8.5mm Poncams to try in the stocker with Procams for the built motor, I want to see how long a 300rwkws RB20 will live....my money is a long time...so want the opportunity to test the thinking Not that silly an option Fran!

So some more pics I took whilst working on the girl...So current work in progress TE37s before stripping, 17 x 9.5" rears and 17 x 9" fronts. Were in white. I actually really liked them in white but loved my old satin black LMGT4s so... Before After stripping Awaiting custome decal set They were abolute pricks to rub back and prep, even after getting them acid dipped. Big thanks to Troy for doing a top job on the colour, satin black with grey pearl with matt clear...looks mega cool in person with the light on them. Shame once they are on the car brake dust will most likely hide their real colour RB24 Gear Well, been hoarding this gear for a while now, but have to either build the engine in the next few weeks, or sell it. Imminent work OS means tough decision needs to be made. Dotn want to really build a motor when the std one keeps on rocking.... And with the Tomei solid lifters and 260/10.25mm Procams I needed to upgrade the valve springs...so knowing nothing about engine building it was time for some more catalogue shopping... And there is always those annoying jobs you wish you never started. After my fire at Winton all those years ago the wiring for my AiM data logger was damaged. It required a new MAP sensor, oil temp and pressure sensors and wiring....so rather then just simply install what was required i ripped it all out and decided second time round I could do a better job of wiring it in....and has since sat in its box with the new sensors and bits

Ok, so you are spannering for a person racing that weekend? Sorry , i have confused Island Majic with the last PIARC Supersprint. SO what car and category?

I have only ever done one Supersprint in the rain and truthfully I didnt even bother about the times. Its great fun and learning experience to jsut circulate. I was at a day the other week where it was slick/wet and drying out...I was driving around and learning and thought I was going ok....the give away was the 8-10 cars per lap overtaking me...lol I didnt care. It was still fun and interesting to learn how to drive the car in those conditions....just had to use the mirrors and be sure i was timing my lifts on the straights so as not to hold up the maniacs who were flying in the wet conditions

I am also looking for a std airbox, can be GTSt or GTR from an R32. Must have the snorkel that goes into the inner guard

Can you please shoot me a pm with your email address as i would like a picture of the airbox...if its complete then i will take it

Hey UNIT...sill got the airbox? Does it come with the snorkels that go into the inner guard?

Just make sure you use the 350Z rotor as opposed to the GTR rotor as they have a different offset. From memory the 350Z rotors may be cheaper

If its raining at PI and you are driving, I think the most important setup change you have to make is with the driver between the ears...and make sure that at all times the brain remains talking to the right foot I dont buy into all this dry and wet setup talk. If it is a road car running semi slick tyres then you are generally not running anything radical in the way of susp. Perhaps you could do with a degree of camber taken out of the front and 0.5 a degree from the rear... I actually think its best to just rock up and drive the thing...you will find any issues with your handling that grippy tyres normally hide in the dry. So wait until you get there....if its wet you could learn a thing or two about the character of the car to the point that when you play with swaybars etc it could actually correlate to a quick and nicer car to drive in the wet. But, if its wet at PI....just pot around and take it easy and drive the thing straight...even in the wet you see some pretty high speeds and a lot can go wrong on wet grass at those speeds If you are at the PIARC day on the 13-14th then come say hello. I will be there in a silver R32 with black TE37s

Read what I typed again....$150 each is cheap. LIke you say, throw in some high tensile facteners and washers etc, plus margin....you can see how they can cost more unless you are the one (or friend/family member) putting the time into milling them up etc.

Just register with Import Monster and bid for a genuine one on yahoo auctions. Odds are you will need to respray it, but ditto the case if you were going new from Nissan...whcih if their bumper prices and bonnet prices are any indication will make you bleed for weeks.

LOL, yep, that just about sums it up. I have turned into the guy i used to despise..spends money on a car and it never actually gets driven Alloy hats also make the rotors run cooler as the alloy dissipates heat better and also means the heat doesnt get into the bearings of the wheel as quickly. Does it make a difference...if you say it does then I think you have missed your calling and should be a development driver for a race team Stop and think about materials, machining time, wastage of machined part, drilling and tapping and then trying to make a few dollars from making them. All of a sudden $150 each seems cheap.

Or you could try raising the thing to see if it helps your handling woese Are you still around 315mm ride height at the front ?

You cant use RB26 lifters due to valve stem lengths etc If you are after some RB20 solid lifters then give me 7-10 days for me to get my spare set back from the machinist

If it was me and needing rotors , then i would go for std Nissan / Brembo replacement rotors. The std Brembo rotors on GTRs are 324m and better quality then anythign DBA. Would be interesting to know what Nissan charge as a replacement cost. If you want 2 piece then given the current exchange rate then best fork over the extra cash and get some two piece Stoptechs.

Well i am basing part of my post of what Gary Anderson has said during race coverages

In the final stages of finalising a contract to move back overseas with work, which means some parts I have in storage will be up for sale, if i get the right price then will part with them as they are costing me $210 a month to have in store (along with some furniture etc) - Brand new Tomei RB24 pistons. Increase bore to 82mm. Part No. 1112820112. Asking $1670 - Tomei RB20DET / VG30DETT Valve Springs for Procams or 10.35mm lift cams. Asking $380 - Tomei RB20/25/VG30 Solid Lifters and Tomei retainers for use with Procams (used) - $450 - Tomei Procams 10.35mm lift. Not sure if they are 260 or 270 duration. They come with a set of Tomei solid lifters. All are currently at engine machinest as they came out of an RB24 that suffered a catastrophic big end failure and upon receipt there were signs that the head had been starved of oil and cams are scored. Machinist is confirming duration and that they can be tidied up and used. Take cams as is with lifters for $300 or wait until I have had them inspected and repaired as/if required - Also have a new set of Apexi RB26 titanium retainers. They are heavier then i expected so surprised that they are titanium. They are Apexi and in the catalogue I have access to Apexi only list titanium RB26 retainers The Tomei lifters are perfect for RB25/30 builds that want to run the high lift Procams, though the valve springs are not suitable for the RB25 head. - Also have an R32 RB25 crank that has been balanced and oil drive collar installed. Comes with a set of std, balanced RB26 rods to suit. Asking $1000 bor crank and rods If you want a number of the components then will do a better price for a number of components. All you need to build a tough RB24 is here, pistons, rods, crank, valve springs, reatiners and lifters. Just chose the duration cam you want to run. Apart from the cams the gear is either new or in good condition ready to go. I have been pulling the bits together for a tough RB24 for a long time, but just cant see it happening anytime soon. Also have a Greddy Type R gate that has only seen a few hundred kms of dyno tuning and an RB26 block with near new N1 oil pump and water pump I need out of the way, so offers?