Roy

DBA are wrong

94 R32 are generally the V-Spec II which had the same Brembos as the R33. I am pretty sure you can still get non V-Spec R32 GTRs in 1994 that use the std Sumitomo 296mm rotor and caliper setup

What camera are you using. Looks like nice and crisp. Good driving too. Needs more loud though

I am looking at going down for both days as really need the seat time after having not driven my car in anger for about 3 years. I will be sorting accommodation in the next 10 days so if you are coming down then may be able to sort accom http://www.piarc.com.au/files/Nov%202010%20Sprint%20Regs.pdf I just need a 1:51.9 and I will be stoked

Bump, was holding the kit for a guy and had a second party waiting on his decision...seems I shot myself in the foot with 2 weeks passing and both parties now walking away from the table. So this time round, no holding for people or stalling other interested parties because we are chatting via PM. First person fronting the money will get the kit

If you have had the car for a while and know the history and confidence that the motor is a good thing, there is not that much more risk in running a well tuned 18psi ... just keep an eye on temps and revs

WRONG! Casey Stoner's WIFE IS AWESOME!

Single plane, I wonder how much better worse they are then other things out there. There is plenty of info around that suggest dual plane elements are the way to go....and they want 2k for their Type 3/5 style wings

Deposit taken

Its a sign of the times when a car "only" has 260rwkws and 235s on a 4wd

V8 Supercars actually run rotors that are 4mm smaller in diameter then std R35s, and i am pretty sure you will find the Alcons that they run hug the rotor a little tighter then the OE Brembos. So no guarantee they will fit over R35 brakes, if they are marginal on a car running Supercars brakes then ..... it would be worst if running the Mines 400mm upgrade etc. Be interesting to see how they go, I could easily be wrong

Took some more pics of the turbines as I played with the turbos i have laying around. If you look at the L2 v H turbine you can see why people prefer the L2 on the 2L RB20 and SR20 setups.

Pics? Oh god, i realised whilst under it that at one point in time the drivers underside sill has taken one hell of a hit., The whole floor is pushed in a little. I think it may have been from a big off on the back kink at Calder a few years ago when i cracked a rotor and the car got its jiggle on. When was resprayed was thrown on a jog and is dead straight "now" so no legacy from the few nicks with tyres etc. There isnt really anthing all that interesting under my car. Camera ran out of batteries but i did catch the trial fitting of some 18x9.5 +18 TE37s with 265/40/18s. So i dont think my 9.5" +36 TE37s will have any troubles clearing, though not sure about 9.5 +22s, may have to stick with 9" +20/22 Also had a play with some of the turbos I have laying around. Thinking again about throwing a water cooled ball bearing core at a custom turbo made up of some housings and wheels I have. If you look at the L2 v H turbine you can see why people prefer the L2 on the 2L RB20 and SR20 setups. My TD06 runs a H wheel so may have the ability to make a little more power then the L2s if i free the engine up with a 10cm housing and some cams/E85 (I continue to come up with logic why i should waste money ad time pursuing the dream of a 300rwkws RB20 with similar response to what i have now ) Will see how a 25G wheel goes on the L2 turbine, just need to see what shaft diameter they use when they put a BB core in them As for the problem with the GIZZMO. I think it had more to do with the fact that it is all wired into a flying lead harness and it came off an RB25. I relied on memory from back when i wanted to run an RB25 PFc and remembered that some injectors pins needed swapping, but didnt think it affected the ignition pins. Mayybe it does....will need to check as the Gizzmo may be messing with the wrong pins on wrong cylinders. Will get it sorted this week and hopefully be ready for a run ar Calder at the end of the month with some launch control action

Installed the ARC swaybars, removed the plumb back on the gate. Encouraging thing is it now doesnt run right so hopefully that means since the a re-tune is needed that there is an improvement to be had sometime this week before we start playing with plenums and cams. Tried wiring up the Gizzmo launch control and shift light....but ran into problems where the car wouldnt start. So have to do some more homework on the required wiring of the thing. Got my dash all cut up to mount ny radiator fan controller, LC1 A/F meter, SBC ID and ripped out the air con. Doent feel like i got a lot done but typing it out it now seems i got some of the fiddly jobs done

Pics? Why is one 60%? Flat spots, uneven wear?

The Type S coolers are good things. Dont interrupt flow the to the radiator, not a huge pressure drop and cool really well. They normally plumb back through the inner guard

Ditto, will be good to get back there in a reliable car and two two back to back days of driving!

You mostly need valve springs when you start messing with larger lift. The ProCams have a sharper ramp as they have to be used with solid lifters. I have a set of 256s Poncams and 260/10.25mm Procams with solid lifter conversion and springs. The Poncams cost about $800, where as the Procams are $800, $500 for springs and $600 for the solid lifters....so far, far more expensive an option. But I am curious to see what the lift will do

Real interested to see how good the Penskes are straight out of the box...too much shock for me i think

Dont forget you may have to pay GST through customs etc. Do your own homework and ring around and get some prices of the pad compund you like to suit the caliper and see if its acceptable. ditto replacement rotors. They are no doubt no bad thing...but its still going ot be over 3k so be sure they are what you want, need and happy to be paying the cost of pads and rotors (though rotors will last a long time if you are using the right pads)

The 6cm housing in soooo small. I am amazed any turbo cna make power with such a small exhaust housing?!?!?! I had one that I was going to try on my TD06 and RB20. It didnt make it anywhere near my engine bay as the thing was so small that no way could it past 2L worth of air effeciently...or so i thought?@?