Roy

Also, if you are going to be tracing them try to make sure the rotors have had as much heat cycling as possible befor esubjecting them to the really high temps of the track

Yeh, well i got stung GST and VAT for my camera... annoying as it was but using the cam for the first time in UK stung me But, looks to have good functionality at that dollar, how often do you really watch the footage on a HD tv etc, rather then PC. So sound becomes just as important if not more then picture quality. If the footage is as good as POV 1.5 then thats good enough

Well thats good to know! I preferred the last set I had as they had dark grey anodised hats rather then the silver...but such is life

Pounds or Aussie? They are not HD cameras though from memory?!?!?

Dont believe so, but if they resemble Harrops then its not really surprising as the company making the rotors once had some ex Harrop people starting that side of the business. (what I was told back in 2005ish) They are CSC rotors. My dump is 76.2mm stainless tube. Wanted to go 4 " but will have to get a custom reducer spun up to go from the small 8cm exhaust housing up to 101.6 tube. Will do that when I do my new exhaust. I hope Caltex get some runs on the board with the E85, as otherwise I am considering trying one of the new TD05-18G turbos with ported shroud to fatten up my curve

Any brake place or spares place like Auto One, Autobarn, Bursons, Repco etc. RDA would be your best bet for well priced replacements

Those APs that Stillen use are the CP7040 calipers which are not as good as the CP5555, and dont use AP rotors, but there own branded rotors. (which are probably still good things) At the money they are still decent value given current exhange rate I stay stick with it Chris, you may find that the balance isnt too bad and easily able to be improved with a bias valve. I dare say all the parts you are pulling together as a kit will mean that it will be rather easy next round if you want to try again with a different caliper. WHen you have the rotors etc all running drop me a line interested to hear how it works for you....IF you are not happy I have a few ideas of other calipers that are cheaply available that may work well

Your setup has the better rotors. But will be interesting to try these Stoptechs and see if there is much difference between them and the F40s. The Brembos have cheaper and better range of pads as the Stoptechs use Porsche pads and it seems anything with a Porsche part number costs that little bit more I have a couple sets of spare calipers, Alcons and Brembos....on the lookout for a dedicated track car that they will find themselves on to. Have a set of 4 pot rears that I am building up at the moment that should work really well I am hoping with the new plenum, Tomei cams, E85 and perhaps the 10cm housing that it will only lose 200rpm response and make 300rwkws with a good spread of torque for a 4,000rpm range. I still have the shorter diff that I can try to get this little 20 on song, but means i would have to go 19s or something on the street to get reasonable freeway cruising rpm. On my 17s it would be pulling 3600rpm on the freeway

Did a motorkhana the other week, but most likely its next track day will be the Sandown sprints on Cup Weekend. In the meantime, new dump pipe with bung for the LC-1 A/F meter The Power F/C isnt tuned to run off the A/F gauge, will see about getting a new one and installing to get the closed loop freeway tune more accurate but not sure if its worth the agro Also now have my hands on my new rotors, Mounts are drawn up and will machine them up out of some platic to see if the fit is ok before machining out of billet. Hopefully brakes will be all sorted in 2-3weeks time Engine wise still waiting to see how dumping the plumb back gate goes for power and then we will try the plenum

I think you will find the flex didnt come so much from the caliper as the mount. Many that i see look as though they would "twist" if subjected to loads. Thats why i always preferred to teh R32 GTSt 324mm upgrade over the R32 GTR/R33 GTS25T upgrade as the change from 280 to 324 makes for a far sturdier bracket then 296 to 324. The Evo which runs something like a 320mm rotor from memory to 355 is better but still not as bulky as the 44mm change in radius of the R32 GTSt kit

What is it with back cars being quick...well i jus paid rego today so that is one step closer to getting back on the road

Good to see the times continuing to drop...hopefully i convinced Russ to throw my spare 20G setup on so in a few weeks we can go one make racing

5% rears means 5% worn or are they dead? Are you ok to courier to Melb if i pay for courier?

How can you say he is not a good driver? He has won 7-8 GPs! Dont let the fact that you dont like the guy cloud your judgement. I think at this point of their careers Mark is showing he is the more complete driver...but who knows if that will be enough for him to win this years WDC?!?!?!?!

Any reason apart from price why people are using the EVO Brembo?

The cheese eating, surrender monkey and me are entered. After the last DECA i think its time i bolt the front brakes back on....running bigger rears then fronts made it an interesting car to try and stop

With the exchange rate improving doesnt look like i will ever get my money back on this bad boy. Turbosmet gate is now well and truly on my car rather then this gate and need it gone from the mechanics as I would rather not be bringing it home to live under my couch....so if i cant get my asking price....offers?

Nobody wants shiny 6 pot brakes?

Yeh, welding anything on the brake bracket has its limitations. Firstly, after welding you would want to machine them again. Remember that you can feel brake vibrations through the brake pedal and steering wheel with as little a 0.0005" movement/uneveness in your brakes!!! SO if you weld something it is going to distort, so should be machined again. Which raises the question, why machine it, weld it then machine it again....fine if you are doign it all yoruself. But if you are paying it makes sense to just machine it right the first time. Secondly, if you are going to be welding anything in your brakes i suggest it is done by a qualified welder to a qualified weld procedure. What that means is that similar welds have been done by an experienced welder good enough to do good consitant welds, and that they have undergone tensile tests, xray tests etc to ensure the weld is as strong, if not stronger then the parent metal. If you are welding something that is subject to the temps, the cyclic loads and the torsional stresses that a brake mount is subject to, then you want to be sure that you are using the correct weld prep, current, wire, purge gas etc etc so that the thing doesnt fail. There are lots of variables with brake setups. And there are lots of things to consider with brakes and what is an upgrade. Generally the main things are managing heat which is mostly rotor type and size, and caliper rigidness. You then have to match your piston diameters to the rotor size and bias that you are after. Some calipers are better then others because they are more rigid, have better pad cooling, run external brkae line meaning they cool the fluid a little better. Some have better seals, some have pistons that dissipate heat better which means pad temps dont get conducted to brake fluid. There are a few consideration, but generally, bigger the rotor you run the more bias you are running. The bigger the piston sizes the more bias you are running. So if you are going bigger rotor its not unusual to go smaller pistons to make sure bias and pedal feel is maintained. Others do use larger pistons with larger rotors, only small %s and in cars like R32s etc the Brembo range of caliper work well as they tend to be a bit of a handful in the rear under brakes and moving the bias forward with bigger rotor and pistons means that the car is often more settled under brakes. I am a sucker for nice big brakes, but its important to remember that you can end up with brakes that are so big that all they do it leave you with unwanted mass hanging off your suspension, so much cooling that day to day driving you need to consider what pad to run as you may never get the required temp into them. You want to install as small as a kit as you can, and there are some good OE setups around that can be engineered to fit....but you need to pick the right kit to try and make work Be interesting how this kit comes together.

Dont waste your time with R34 GTR calipers if you have an R32 GTR. The R34 caliper is from a performance perspective identical to the OE Brembos fitted to the R33 GTR and R33 GTR. SO why buy an R34 GTR caliper which requires you to mod your hubs when the R32 and R33 Brembo GTR caliper are identical and bolt on? As for master cylinders, dont stress. Lets assume you have the Sumitomo R32 GTR master cylinder in your car. That means you have a 25.4mm master cylinder. The Brembo spec GTR brakes are paired with a 26.9mm master cylinder, but unless your R32 has ABS it makes it pretty hard to retrofit on your R32. There will be no difference if you just run your std master cylinder. If you ever have a failure of the master clinder then it could be worthwhile investigating installing the bigger master cylinder, but I dont think its needed to make the install work.

Hmm...only a few tickets left for Abu Dhabi....if Mark wins it I will be gutted that I wasnt there to be arrested drunk in the streets

Count...So now that you have returned from your jaunt around the globe....let post up some of those pics i took with your camera at Spa!