Roy

Any in blue...or just black?

So, for the OP...the advice is rob a servo, or do some tow aways with ATMs!

I wanted to fix some of the piping around the turbo outlet etc, and the Greddy manifold was getting old ad everyone pulles their d1cks about how the 6boost manifold would perform better then even a Greddy manifold. So the idea ticked enough boxes ...and the main thing is the 6boost manifold should work well for a number of years. I think I have gone as far as I want with suspension, thought about all those funny doo-dah arms, but honestly, it would be prety easy to go backwards and dont want to pay 2k in labour for fitting and a wheel alignment. Does need to be lowered a bit more and then I will try to get a better alignment into it. Plus, I was hoping to go 25G and have a +300rwkw stock RB20 But think that setup will have to wait for the built motor

Hehe, this is going to make the 2 years in India worth it. Silverstone on Monday, Burger Ring on Fri-Sat and Italian GP on Sunday ... with plenty of cans in between

He is asking about throwing a turbo RB30ET head onto an RB30E bottom end. From what I understand the RB30ET ran a lower compression bottom end. So not sure what the detonation limt is going to be like if he throws a SOHC head onto his NA bottom end?!?!?!? Of course the RB30DET would be the better option, but he is asking about making an RB30ET out of a completely std RB30E

Yes, without the titanium exhaust on the car the whole plumb back thing has left me feeling a little empty inside So, below is the plot. The changes are: Old Tune-Setup 100RON Shell Racing HKS Type S Cooler Greddy manifold and Type R gate 3" dump pipe and atmo gate. 3" straight pipe for cat on dyno (to eliminate the cat as a power killer during tuning) NewTune-Setup 98RON Shell ARC 100mm GTR Cooler 6boost manifold and Turbosmart Hyper Gate 45 3" off turbo into 3.5" dump with plumb back gate. 3.5" straight pipe for cat on dyno (to eliminate the cat as a power killer during tuning) So you can see there is a dramatic change in response which seems to be mirrored in the power the thing makes. We are reving it 500rpm harder, but even still there is a possibility that we have changed the final gearing by running different size wheels/tyres. But we dont think thats the case, but will trial a few things here as well So will throw on the SBC ID and see if an EBC can do a bit more for response. Open up the gate to see if its hurting top end. Throw some RON100 in it and there are also a few other things I want to try before throwing the 256/8.5 Poncams and Plazmaman Plenum on

They are both good drivers. The GTR is doing about the same lap times as every other R33 GTR does on semis with the same mods. Perhaps 0.5second off the generall pace of R33 GTRs running suspension and breathing mods with about that power. They were both on worn semis so that would account for the very small difference in outright pace

Not sure you overtook enough cars! So , feedback on the wang? I am looking at perhaps getting a different aftermarket R34 wang to try on the boot lid after my car gets a few more hours on it in the coming months

If its taking up space then drop it over my place. I will make sure it gets plenty of kms on it and isnt taking up space

Its funny, once upon a time everyone use to poke fun at pushrod v8s, even if they got the job done they were tarnished with the knuckle dragger dinosaur tag. These days, people are saying a SOHC, 8 valve cast iron block engine that only revs to 5.5k unless you have a cam, headwork and inlet plenum is the way to go over a smaller 2L twin cam that as a std motor will make more power over a wider rev range. Not saying that way is clearly any better or worse, but seems the inner more cubes wins over technology rules with Nissan owners, despite out love of hanging sh1t on the pushrod and "low tech" community. For the record, based on RB30ETs i have been in that have std heads, i would go the RB20DET every time. There was a friends VL turbo that ran a GT35R with a cam but std head and inlet and the thing only made good power for about a 2,500rpm-3,000rpm max powere band. They just fall off power majorly over 5,500rpm when you strap a big turbo to them, unless that head and inlet is really freed up. Not to mention that your NA RB30 bottom end will not be ideal for running decent amounts of boost unlike the RB20

I am in India so it is rather expensive to call me at present. If you have any questions then please PM me or post them up here. If you would like to discuss then best PM me your numbers and we can arrange a good time for me to call you

Gearbox ratios were free in Grp A so I bet they were different ratios at almost every different round

A few questions. Are you doing the mods yourself, or paying somebody? Are you planning on upgrading the gearbox to an RB25 box anytime soon? And rather then saying increased torque, you really need to specify where you want more grunt. Of course you can increase the torque of an RB20 by giving it better exhaust, intercooler, a better tune. Basically making it a better, more effecient air pump. Throw on a GT-SS which is a tad bigger then a std turbo but steel wheeled so you can jam 18psi into the engine and you will make a nice and punchy 200-210rwkws with great midrange from 4,00-5,500rpm with peak power somewhere in the 62,00rpm range. It will probably run out of puff at about std rev limit of 7,000rpm...so no point reving it much harder. But being a small bore, short stroke 6 cylinder, even with the smallest turbo in the world and all the band aids you can bolt on, it is never going to have good reserves of torque from 2,500rpm to 4,000rpm. If that is where you want to start pulling at...then best grab the bigger displacement motor sooner rather then later as the bolt ons are different between the engines

...and of course how awesome a GTSt is with aftermarket brakes on the rear and stockers on the front!

Well after a weekend of driving around DECA there is nothing wrong with the engine. Plenty of head scratching has revealed there are a few little tweaks in teh setup that we will try whcih will improve things. Need to run it again onm the dyno with 17" wheels and find some Shell 100 equivelant fuel as my last tune I am comapring the current one too was on 100 and took a lot more ignition. Will also try dumping the plumb back to see if we find some more top end with an open gate exhaust. So, at a minumum there is no performance improvement from changing to the 6boost manifold. But it seems that there isnt the loss in performance that I first feared. So engine is still fine, even after some 8,400rpm limiter work on the skidpan. I think it will need the 25G to break this engine....but no way I am going to give that a try considering that all the changes have netted nothing in the way of improved performance, only hopefully reliability looking forward.

Isnt he famous in his own right? Its an immaculate car too!

Hey you, you stick with your fancy Datsuns and leave the European p0rn to those that know. I am with you though. It beat our Datsuns so much have been cheater spec

Had been keeping this bad boy to put on my car, but the money i can get for the exhaust needs to be better spent on other areas of the car. ie I need the money Have never run the exhaust, but being the street version with the two mufflers I expect it not to be overly droney. Should really make a nice RB bark. It is meant for an R32 GTR, i expect it will fit GTSt (That was my intended application) It is 3" and in good condition. It is way cool due to being so light. But, has to go. Asking $1200 Located in Melb. A quick sale is great as I am returning OS with work.

No, just killed response of the setup From what i read and was told was expecting a 200-300rpm improvement in response, not drop off. Oh well, will be interesting to see if it drives any different, but not encouraging that seems to lag behind orginal Greddy manifold. Maybe i should rip all this shit off and not mess with something 'that aint broke' Lets hope its something like a restriction with plumbing the gate back in, shitty spring and opening of gate too soon, crappy BOVs or a leak somewhere. Lets hope

Well there goes all that theory. Seems 6boost manifolds are not as good as the std Greddy ones.

The Stoptechs have a bolted bridge that you remove, then they are basically a cross between Brembo F40/50s and Porsche 4 pots. The Stoptech calipers have a large and confusing number of piston combinations where they use the bigger rotor to give you more front braking torque and thermal capacity, but use smaller pistons so that they work with the std rear brakes, master cylinder and dont make the car much more front biased.

MX5. Good base, can make it as fast as you like if one day you want to go bonkers with it

Grabbed them locally, was tempted to grab a set of the 332 setups a few weeks back but knowing how good the F40s are on my car I am concerned that Stoptech only use a 38 and 34mm piston in their R32 GTSt kit. Plus I went to all that trouble with wheels to make sure I can clear a 343mm rotor, it would be a crime to go back to a 332mm rotor. With my upgraded rears I would prefer a little more front bias in my kit. So the ST40s i grabbed have the same piston size as the R33 GTR Brembo / F40

Will post up some pics in the next few days. A Turbosmart gate is replacing the Greddy gates I have as it is much smaller and it allows it to be welded a lot closer to the merge collector