Roy

Yeh, great vids of the old Grp A cars....but i will add that Perkins had his race engine in and Brock had a practice engine in. Brock was slower to the chase then Larry so in the handling stakes Larry pasted Brock up and over the Mountain...Brock made all the time up down Conrod. So for Brock to pull back all the time on Larry, Larry running his race engine etc...he was obviously giving away a fair wack of straight ahead to the 05 car. So that tells me that the smoother line of Larry was quicker

Been in storage in boxes at panel beaters so didnt bother to clean them up before taking pics

Still in box being tripped over. I am willing to bet the stupid GTR pipes on my car will split as per all other GTRs but too lazy to install these now that the car is all back together

Bump...negotiable on price as simply have nowhere to put them

Going in the bin by 5th Feb if nobody wants

Cooler conditionally sold and may be selling my titanium exhaust now rather then the old faithful HKS

Bumpage...can someone hurry up and get rear ended

Well some of the cars simply didnt smell right. On the stage were Snowie was trying to go the moon running over 3 bar and we had to slow...a car overtook us and i thought we had popped the engine because of the cars exhaust smell...very oil and strange smell. May have simply been E85 but who knows

I have a wedding in Scotland in June so at that money i would rather sneak in a trip to Rockingham Raceway in a hired R400 for about the same money

Credit to Snowplough for not following my calls on L4 when they were R3.5 I thought i was doing ok until i watched the vids and he did well not to be confused by my talking...as thats what i did, talk us through the corners (often repeating the same call for an upcoming corner over and over which now i can see could have been rather confusing) rather then call the corners in advance. But, we got through... and its depressing as my car isnt near as cool as any of the cars there

Wouldnt have happened if they had Crewman/Navigator/Stuntman/Fearless Brisby as a navigator. Poor Snowy, best he could do was me at short notice after being dicked in the most significant way by someone that should know better! Got the car through Day 1 but the problems just could not be solved in the night....so Cascade Tour was the call for our Sunday. (

Well if you cant cheat then you will never be able to go quick. All the quick people cheat

Yeh, i dunno!?!?!?! As per my first post, i do believe that straight is generally always going to be the quickest way. If you are going sideways then you are not going forwards. But i suppose the big differentiation is are you sliding the whole car toward to exit of a corner, (like Duncan suggests in turns 4-5-6) or whether you are wagging the tale in and out of corners where you are lifting or using a fair bit of lock to control....rather then balance the thing on the throttle. LOL, but yeh, easiest thing to do to improve your lap time is get someone to move the timing beacon up 100mtrs on your hot lap

Fark me your car must be quick...that sort of grunt and fark all weight!!!!

Yep, if you are using a 450hp turbo i would thin that its possible cams may help you out. I personally would not try anything bigger then 256/8.5mm Poncams. I tried some 260/8.8mm cams and whilst it sounded so cool and tough, i lost power. Bascially killed the engine as it simply didnt have enough compression or cylinder filling and then when the cams would have finally come on at the higher revs all the gases were being choked by the little 8cm housing on my TD06-20G, So in went the std cams, and got all the response and power back. Dont forget that RB25s run more compression then the RB20 and they also hae VICS which is why they often get nice results with cams. I am toying with the idea of again trying some cams in my new motor when/ if my std RB20 blows up. I will be just cleaning up the head (no porting i want to keep velocities high to get good cylinder filling) and bumping static compression up to 9.2:1 and then using 260/10.25mm cams which will effectivly lower dynamic compression of the motor. But to go with this i will also have a few cc more displacement courtesy of 4mm oversized pistons and a bigger turbo with less back pressure at high boost...and also a plenum that many clean up flow a little. But for a std RB20, i would only try the 256/8.5mm cams with the std springs as i suspect they will be about as big as you want to go. Just look at the std cams in the RB20, RB25 and RB26 and then consider the displacement and compression of the bigger engines and you will see that the RB20 runs decent sized cams std and unlike the SR20 which really needs some cams in the early to mid 200-250rwkw range...the RB20 seems happy with std camsa

At Wakefield, being a slow to mid speed track i would be amazed if too much slippy was quicker

Yep, depends on the dollars though. If you are after a good set of Enfless CCX pads for front and rear then i have those for $150 as well. PLenty of meat left in the pads

Ok, so now back in country trying to clean out all my bits. Will get some pics up of the head in the next 10-12 days as i go through everything. I also have an R32 RB26 bottom end that was rebuilt with new water pump, oil pump, N1 pistons/rings and new bearings etc. However it had a hitch with a ring on Cylinder 1 meaning that it lost compression. Engine had less then 4,000kms on it at the time I only wanted the bottom end for the services/straightened crank which has the Jun collar adaptor on it so that i could build up my RB20 into an RB24....or throw these internals into my old RB25DE which i sold last year. Hoping for $800 for bottom end and after i inspect the head and get up some pics the price of the head will be back to $1200

Ok, so dimensions are 600 x 300 x 60mm. The friend has the cooler at the moment and he is arranging pics for me this weekend. As for the exhaust, the panel beater still has the car so have not been able to take the exhaust off and get some pics. One day i will get the car back and be able to start moving all the parts which i have money tied up in!

Bought these to use with my new cooler but modded old piping to suit instead. Asking $550

Calipers are in very good condition. Have been rebuilt with new seals and dustboots about 5,000kms ago and about 15,000kms before that were HPC coated, which has proven very durable with calipers still looking good. The rotors have plenty of thickness and are an aftermarket Japanese rotor that are better then std, DBA or RDA Some pics of when they were originally HPC coated. Asking $300 for calipers and rotors.

I have a Bayside Blue R34 GTR Boot lid minus the spoiler for sale. In good condition Asking $350

Jun are on the right track, twin TD06-20Gs

LOL, they sure dont feel like it to drive

Sitting at work, i removed from my car as a line split and AC no longer worked. So for sale is the evaporator that sits in front of the radiator and the pump. $100 pick up Melb