Roy

What does the TD06 kit come with? Type C or Type R? Anyone know what size the Type R gate is?

Yeh gearbox is woeful

Looks famn quick too http://in.youtube.com/watch?v=z6Mr4GE2eJ4&...feature=channel

From PistonHeads ..Right let’s get one thing straight. There are hundreds, nay thousands, of modified Nissan GT-Rs out there and this looks just as Barry as the rest. But whereas just another exhaust/ECU/wheel change may be easy to overlook, the changes to this GT-R really are worth a mention. For a start the car no longer has power going to all four wheels. Yes, this is the world’s first RWD Nissan GT-R and by binning the all-wheel drive system tuner Blitz has addressed one of the car’s biggest problems – its weight. Sadly we don’t have any figures but thanks to the removal of air conditioning and a number of other components this R35 should be considerably lighter. So that’s it – one crazy conversion for this GT-R. Er, well actually there’s two. The standard car’s flappy paddle gearbox has been replaced with a Hollinger sequential ‘box, and a Nismo GT R34 LSD has been thrown in for good measure. The engine is unchanged but there is a Blitz back box. Blitz has also fitted its own ZRR dampers at all four corners, along with a set of BRW09MAG forged magnesium wheels.

If you grab the verniers and the clutch plate is 3.2mm thick for a Nismo Super Coppermix twin plate...is that dead, near new, somewhere in between?

3 simple questions then... 1. What has your RB30 conversion cost to date? 2. How much power do you currently make 3. Are you a DIY'er and sounds like you did much of it yourself, what % did you do?

Grab some R33 brakes andR32 GTR wheels... best of both worlds

Ok, cant say much about handling because it was on the street so dont throw it around....but acceleration in my car was far worse when i had my 18" cast Lenso wheels (13kg each) on compared to my 17" forged Weds (6.7kgs each) The difference in acceleration was dramatic, the 18" Lensos lasted about 3 months and then i sold them as even for street rims i didnt like how doughy my already compromised car felt

I dont dismiss how some people are to do ti for roughly the same money...many can not. There is extra machining costs for the RB30. (Cam belt etc). There is a crank collar mod you have to do. There is work you have to do on the VICS when using the RB25DET head. There is changes to his existing dump pipe from his highmount setup. Odds on will have to change his turbo to cooler pipe as well as the filter to turbo pipe. Oh and the coller to throttle body pipe. So, he also then needs to play around with Power Steering belts and pulleys. He also has to consider whether there will be issues with strut braces. He then also has the issue of engine number change which invites the local authorities to inspect his high mount setup etc = headaches IOt is clearly more expensive to build...i would say 8 out of 10 RB30 builds cost way more then the original budget! So, to the OP...extra torque to the RB25. Your only real options would be looking at the effeciency of a range of things. Original inlet manifold, solid lifter conversion with better cams say 250/9.3mm or so. Clean up the head, a good split pulse manifold and associated turbo. Look at the tune and look at the tune again. It wont actually add to the torque of the engine....but will improve the feel of driving...things like wheel size and weight (as light as possible) Ditch the clutch fan and go electric. Make sure you have a good flywheel.... As others have said their is not any dramatic way to improve torque....about the only way i can think of is make sure the engine spins the turbo onto boost and let the turbo make the power. Indycar and many forced induction race engines size the turbos to make torque gains and build the engines to make boost as early as possible...not make hp. So basically let the boost make the hp, turbo to get the torque. When looking at this you have to consider that many classes of turbo race cars are forced to run FIA restrictors so that changes the thinking in engine building and tuning. So all of the above is small things that can be tweaked to improve the big picture. The only real way to get a dramatic gain is go down in turbo frame size. Others have said go RB30...you dont like that option. You can downsize the turbo which doesnt seem to be what you want as then you are not able to utilise your bolt ons. But fact is with a built engine you can easily jam another 6-8psi into the engine which means you can justify a smaller tubo running 22psi rather then a bigger turbo running 15-16psi

Well the thing stopping me from buying is that i need to sell my wheels, so if you are happy to swap for the 17 x 8.5" +32 Work XD9s then... ?

A 2835 bagging you about 260-270rwkws or perhaps a 30307ProS running a bit less boost using the std manifold would be my pick for a reliable and quick track GTSt. Oh, and sick R31, the DJR Sierra was quicker over a lap in qualifying The VL Walkinshaw beat it at Bathust in 1990 so lets not take this off thread on the first page.

Oh there is changes to my car but still have the RB20...lots of other things are changing I am going for less, power, less grip and more noise. Will feel WAY quicker

You say they dont suit your frame? How big are you...if they are the same size as std R34 GTRs? If you can stand me busting your balls on price then ....

Its purely related to the quality of cars. I am expecting to get slaugtered in Open or Clubsprint... it will make no difference. At least in Open with good tyres i find out what times my car can do. So if your main motivation is to be competitive then sadly a GTSt wont do the trick in either class. You need an EVO with 30K spent on it or a GTR with 30k spent on it to be competitive in either class But wont stop me from having bucket loads of loud fun!

Let me know dollars on the K-Mart wing if you let it go

I am going to get a few good sorts to take him to the mens and show him a good time...no man can resist easy kinky sex. We wont see him for hours. Win, win

Meh...cost too much money and it may end up in the long run over time costing me more money but there is fun in tinkering and getting improvements on small spends. Without experimentation we would all be driving RB20s with high 253s or RB25s with GCG Hi-Flows

SR20? Bugger, another car i am going to have to sabotage for the bragging rights for the 2L rwd brigade

Cool! Happy to lose to a CA18DET but woudl make me sick to my stomach getting torched by an SR20

Gulp...meh. As long as the car rusn well and i get into the teens i will be happy

Well before i waste Marty's time...are we talking about $800-$1500-$2000 for a head re-co and clean up/porting of head, inlet and exhaust? The idea is for me to give it a go myself, but if the dollars are not too ludicrous and the confidence is high that it will net tangible results then happt to do it Hear what you are saying about air pump. But its the gas velocity at low-mid rpm that gives you cylinder filling which gives good combustion and good torque and the improved gas velocty spins the turbine with more torque sooner. I am happy enough with the 260rwkws, more would be great, but what i want is to fatten it up and make the same power easier. I just need a tad more grunt in 3rd gear at 4,000rpm . 30rwkw improvement at that point to make the same (give or take) peak power is what i need.

Looks good because it would be east to install. But wouldnt a normal vid camera give you more adjustability for poor lihting, wide screen etc???? Also not very good for non car applications, which if i am spending that sort of money i need to consider versatility

How much extra stroke does that give me?

Head porting costs money, also, typically porting slows velocity so hurts low-mid rpm but helps high rpm flow. ??? Yes, No? ..not what comes to mind when wanting more torqe and response to spin a turbo up...ditto longer duration cams. But i am all ears if you have actual before / after figures and a place that knows the right thing to do to a head. I am considering buying a cheap used head and just cleaning it up with knife edging etc...but no real porting. I am happy to spend the money but dont want to be the guy paying for the experiment and piss poor results or backwards step. ...Just dawned on me that yes the RB20 is 8.5:1 a its half a point behind the RB25 at 9.0:1 so completely stuffed that up.

I was always thought it was 8.0:1? Ok if 8.5 i still want alkmost an extra half point in compression