dangerous_daveo

Can you please get me a rough size and wieght on the r33 gearbox please. And also confirm its a Series 1 (as I belive it has to be for the R32 conversion) What else does it come with? Adapeted speedo cable or is what you have listed it?

MB Quart are awesome for quality man. Both build and sound. What range MBs were you looking at? The tweeters can be harsh tho, so listen to them first. End of the day tho, just make sure you mount the speaker properly, and deaden the doors correctly, that and tweeter placement will have the biggest impact rather than speaker selection.

Like balls maybe??? (sorry I had to) I'll go with the others and say its the level thing. But Id check whats inside, could be cocane or something!

Pretty simple. I've just done the search, all the basic bolt-up stuff seems fairly straight forward, so not overly concerned about that. But on the off chance if anyone has done the conversion in to a cefiro if there was anything different from the R32 swap/s that is noticable if you could just post it in here. Atm Im just checking out my options, punching some numbers ($$$ numbers...) Also if anyone knows roughly how much to reco an RB20 box with new front and rear seals, new syncos etc. Pretty simple, Im sure someone on here has done it pretty recently. Like wise with the RB25 box to RB20. If anyone has had it done by a mechanic (or themselfs but has noted the hours that it took) can it please be put in here. Im getting quotes as well, just interested to know what others have paid. Thanks.

Hahah, mates car same deal. Brand new box, like 0kms brand new. It broke after 45mins, put his foot down in 3rd and just crumbled. That is a wrx tho

I remember on my mates wxr dogbox it had a pretty good warrenty on it. $6k box, you smash it, they fix it. He smashed it, so they fixed it, then it broke again, so they fixed it again. No he is selling it to get something stronger. Point is, he hasnt had to pay other than freight to get it fixed. Would it be worth trying to source something like that? Where if it snaps, you dont have to pay stupid amounts to fix it?

I knew I forgot one setting. Toe would be from memory 1-2* toe in still. I belive we still need to put it back to 0*. And sorry, I think before my tone came across wrong and sounded a little defencive, Im just getting a bit tired on many different views on set up, and its really starting to confuse me a bit. I can get the sway bars pretty cheap, as in adjs about the rrp of non adjs, so I'll go them, see how it goes, as mentioned above, if its not working put the front on soft. Could my problems also posbily be related to having the front spring/valving rates still being too high also? And is there a proper way of testing this? Such as under braking over bumps it seems quite bad (could be my imagination) And I dont think its my corner entry speed, as it just keeps understeering. And it would seem to have almost 'power' understeer (only way I can think to describe it) like for whats ment to be a 'ex drift car' its not overly drift friendly anymore.

Ok, put bluntly. The car has been raised quick substantially (sp?) it has about 2* camber on the front, and I think its down to 1.7* or so on the rear. Its got rebuilt coilovers, and 200lb springs rear, 350 lb springs on the front, and the valve rates have been set up to suit. It would turn out it also has aluminium 'pineapples' already in there, and to be honist the car does hook up pretty well, there might be a bit more playing around there, but rear end traction wouldnt seem to be the problem. ATM its already running 6.5* castor. Its also been corner balanced when it was raised for the 2nd time. All suspension arms are now pointing the corect ways, they arent flat or pointing down towards the sump/diff. So there shouldnt be any problems with that. And as already mentioned the 2way diff. And to be honist I have no idea what the standard size anti sway bar is, so it COULD have thicker ones in there already. Im running brig G3 tyres, so they are of fairly resonable quality. Now the problem Im having is it is STILL understeering what I would call badly. The outer edges of the front tyres only are still wearing noticably. So I would think there is a fairly big problem there somewhere. Also as far as I know most of the bushes have been replaced. Factory ride hight is 150mm, and to be honist, it wouldnt be too far off that now, maybe 20mm lower. So really, whats left? I cant see how sway bars could really make THAT much difference. Im more worried about tyre wear atm. Im not too keen on wasting $270ish a tyre from chewing the OUTside.

Pull the fuse. My ABS warning light died the other day. So its one less warning light I have to pull out. Another thing it could be is a dirty sensor or something. Or maybe the dash light is loose, or the wire or something. It could really be as simple as that.

Not knocking what your saying by anymeans. Just after the explanation. What he is saying (and did make sence, and the car does do) is that the castor will be creating bumpsteer, mostly as you have changed the angle of one item, you change the angle of the others, and they would need to be modified to suit. Either way, I'll pull the castor back, if it works it works, if it doesnt it just goes back next wheel alinment. But I have to say I dont think its doing what it should be atm, and from the questions I have asked before I have done pretty much everything yourself and others have suggested. So time to start trying other things, doesnt work, put it back, not that hard. Could be just my driving style also, and how I like the car set up.

I dont belive that is the figure from Autosalon. As it says 'subzero performace' and 'microtech tune'. Eiether way, those figures are big, and REALLY big considering its microtech (jokes) Unlikely to do less at autosalon tho?

200lb rear, 350lb front. The fronts will be going softer in the new finacal year. Id like to know tho what the standard spring rates are if anyone has that info?

Is his name Mr Bean by any chance?

No it comes on when its not working. As its a warning light. Like all lights, they are there to tell you somethings not working as it should be (other than hibeam light if someones going to be a smartarse). If its on cef, it wont work if the diff has been changed to a 2 way or something, if the brakes have been changed its unlikely the sensors would have been changed to work, if you have a hicas lock bar in, there might also be an issue with it.

Cef. Or Zefiro! The greek god of the spring wind or something stupid. Apparently who the cefiro is named after. -----> http://www.geocities.com/a31cefiro_2001/pi...ics/a31logo.jpg

Ok, can someone help me out here (hope this is the right section to start with, I would think so) Hinodex wheels. *points to car pic* those are some hinodex wheels. I have tryed google, tried yahoo.co.jp not much luck on either, they just come up with a www.hinodex.co.jp which does not work. Somewhere along the line I came up with a link between hinodex and stern no idea tho. Anyway, mostly what Im after help with is some info on the company, and what the dickens the wheels are actually called! And their worth etc if posible. Thanks heaps.

The DWE-160 would probably be the single componet product code. Think of the bigger the number, the less loud it is. Thats the really easy simple way. Im sure someone else will come on and say the same thing, but in a much more detailed way. Basically, if they are harsh, move it down. So say 0 is way too loud, try -3. etc.

Hahahahahahahahahahahaha!!! "Drag race and chat" Can people still come in brand new commos, lowerd a bit, some pretty reflective stickers, and some lights??? And some handcuffs round the rearvision mirror . Gold man GOLD!

Man, that is NICE as But yeah, handful alrite. A guy I know up here has a 1jzgte in same model Now that IS a handful.

Well, I went down to the suspension shop today. Veryyyy interesting. He said not to waste my money on a front sway bar. Just to get the BIGGEST rear adj bar I can get my hands on. But he also said, stock castor, more camber on the front. Less camber on the rear. Softer front springs, etc etc. The thing he said mostly is I have to work around my 2 way diff. Makes sence to me, spent a lot of time explaining how stuff works etc. With the castor hes saying lots is good ONLY and he did stress ONLY if the rest of the suspension geomitry, so it all still works in harmony. Which, in my case it isnt. Sooo, start spending money, have a play around. If it works it works, if not back to the drawing board. Hey its only money

I do belive 99.9% of us would, I remember when I was 10 and some dude stole my push bike, I was not a happy 10yo. But being realistic (except in Dans cars case, as they just seem to be the most stupid car theives ever...) You need to make your car unatractive to even break in to. Like a club lock isnt going to stop someone who is after your stereo, likewise having a detachable face headunit wont stop someone from taking the rest of the stereo and your cds. It is difficult when most of us have fairly desireable cars to start with, but only pros wont damage the car, common theives just get annoyed and damage stuff.

You are over a 10.3 sec car??? man, you crazy!

Ahhh, now it makes more sence! Still if you guys ever get the chance Id be interested, as I guess a few others in regards to the bolt on HKS etc cast items and doing the same processes with them, or are they stainless (I dont think they are...?)

Sorry, Id just like to check something here... You mean with the bars OFF the car wasnt as good I take it? Just the way Im reading it its not overly clear if they were on the car or not at the time. Sorry for asking, but $500-600 for the bars fitted, with a proper wheel alinement including some major camber etc changes, I need to make sure Im making the right decision. The money could be spent elsewhere quite easily. Also while I think about it, are there any other brands other than whiteline that are worth considering? Both price and quality wise.

I think it was about $63k+ new. So yeah, exxy limited number car, for a little hatch back anyway