KiwiRS4T

Far as I know all S1 are the same and all S2 are the same (but diff from S1) regardless of year. They are apparently a PITA to fit which is why I haven't rushed to do it (and the fact that people want $300 for them).

Definitely get a new fuel pump - Deatschwerks, Denso, Nismo, Bosch 044 and wire it directly for full voltage (with a relay - tutorials on this site) and change your fuel filter. Do you have a high flow panel filter? Whatever air filter you use check to see if it needs replacing. Are you having problems with your coils? If not you can replace them anytime and won't affect your tune. Just replace your plugs and gap them down to 0.8mm and thouroughly clean your coils and maybe spray them with a sealant.Oviously you can run too much boost if you're on the stock turbo but a good ebc will enable you to hit max boost more quickly. I iwll be using the Link so can't advise you on which ebc.

I have an extra bung for tuning but I am sure that experienced tuners who come across people who don't want to pay for an extra bung will have worked out if there is any correction necessary for measuring at the tail pipe.

Have you bought a turbo yet Zorro (just caught up with this thread)? I have a GT3540 with a .63 exhaust and response in any gear including 4th or 5th is amazing from 2000rpm. I think when its tuned again it will top out at about 330 -350 awkw. You could probably run the .86 housing and still have great response and make 400kw if you want. However if you are happy topping 300kw the 3076 would do but then what's the point of the forging and balancing and expensive parts??!!

Trading in your PFC doesn't sound like a goer. A tuner gets a margin on a new ecu and would be hard put to sell yours at a profit unless he gave you a really low price for it. It would be better for you and the tuner if you just sold yours privately later.

I have a set of Deatschwerks 550s which I ran in my RB25DET and now in my RB30/25 going fine. If I get my engine forged and go to E85 and big kw I would upgrade to ID1000 or ID2000 but not because there was anything wrong with my Deatschwerks.

Well firstly its not a huge restriction. When you are upgrading the ecu you won't be basing your decision on afm or map sensor... just on the merits of the ecu and you will get a better afm or a map sensor based on the ecu.

Apparently - the tuner who installed my Link (and is also a Motec installer) was complaining that he had take his VQ Stagea to Soichi for tuning. Soichi regularly goes back to Japan and has good contacts there.

Fitted a couple of Aero catch type (didn't realise they weren't the genuine ones till they arrived but they seem to work ok) locking flush bonnett pins - not just for motorsport reasons but so that I could get rid of my bonnett catch and make room for my oil cooler and power steering cooler.

If you want to make it go faster the only person who can tune that ecu is Soichi from ST Hitech. he can also fit the HKS F-con if your getting serious!

Yes and no - they would have to be adapted. Turbo back would be ok but the bend over the axle won't be right and in any case the R34 is a shorter car than the R33 so both are different. Hangers may need to be rewelded. I am assuming you are looking to do this because of the unavailbility of Stagea parts but Stagea specific systems can be ordered from Japan through Nengun and various other exporters.

Dot 5 brake fluid should not be used on an abs equipped road car. It is silcone based and quite different from normal brake fluid. Dot 3 is pretty much obsolete and can be replaced by Dot 4 or Dot 5.1 (as opposed to Dot 5).

I have had some 300km/hr dial faces printed to suit the S1` Stagea (and could probably be adapted to suit R33 Skylines as the hole for the odo is not cut out when you get it). To make it read correctly you will need a Jaycar speedo corrector kit (requires assembly and soldering at what they call "simple" level). I will also send instructions for wiring to your cluster (courtesy of an Aussie poster) and enclose an isolating washer that is required. I have bought a few Jaycar kits as they can be hard to source so all up with the dial face, Jaycar kit, washer and instructions its AU$99 posted anywhere in Australia. If you want just the 300km/hr dial face its $30 including postage.

Hey that's a good look!!

or cheaper still: http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/nissan/260/auction-411113305.htm

Some 260 RS http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=437033811 and this one ...not a real 260 but has the R34 front and a built engine - just needs a Link and some better turbos: http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=437749983

Would be an OK buy for the right person at the right price but I would think that would be nowhere near 30K!

Sorry just noticed the dates

Never done it but should think if you got the loom and ecu with the 26 you are 99% there - just have to work out the connection with the atessa.

Why did you fit an N1 pump? Did pull the engine out just to do the head gasket or idid you do other work? Pity you didn't put a restrictor in the oil feed - a vent for the sump would have been good too. Do you have a catch can fitted? If not might be a good idea. Have you had a good long high speed drive - enough to get it really hot? Compressions are high but a bit more variation than ideal.

I had a 33GTST turbo highflowed by GCG - ran it at 240awkw and 15psi in my Stagea - it had made 260kw at one point so your figures sound like a stock turbo. Did you get it highflowed or was it sold to you as a high flow? Mine cost about $1800 - I wouldn't do it again since I could get a new GT3076 for about $2k but in your case I would go for the Hypergear as I believe they are better kw for the $ than GCG.

Are you using the Link plus a solenoid for boost control?

Dunno what system you have in your state but in NZ there is a Low Volume Vehicle Certificate with an inspection carried out by licensed inspectors (not the police). I just have to get driveshaft loops and then an inspection which costs $400 -$600 and then a certificate stating that all my mods are safe i.e. that the braking and suspension are suitable for (more than) the doubling of stock power, that the seats are properly secured in short that all non oem stuff is fit for the pupose. You also get a plate to go on the bulkhead and then just have to point out the plate and if necessary pull out the certificate if you ever get stopped by the cops.

Ideally the tuner will just keep ramping it up until there is no return for the extra boost and then set it at the figure thats still giving benefit. Hope you get to keep the car although to be honest they are not cheap to run - I am spending $100 - $120 a week on petrol alone!

That's what you pay for with the better Jap brand exhausts - decent sound without impeding flow. After a (too) quick look at my Blitz rear muffler I decided it was too restrictive and got a Chinese 3in straight through muffler which was much louder and sounded cr*p. Looking at the Blitz that I had cut off I realised that it probably wasn't too restrictive and it certaily sounded a lot better. Luckily my TradeMe muffler came with a silencer which reduces the sound to an almost acceptable level and I will leave it in except when tuning or at the track.