KiwiRS4T

You need a dyno to tune SAFC and SITC. How are you measuring the afrs? Do you have a wide band meter? What are you going to use for knock detection?SAFC and SITC are better than nothing - I used to have them before I converted to manual but they are crude tools compared to Nistune, PFC or Link etc.

There's tons of threads about computers for you to read but the short answer is first go to your best available tuner and ask what they like to use.

Thats a good result from a stock turbo. More kw from now on start to get (more) expensive. Its good to try to work out your ultimate goal to save doing things twice. If you start going on the track/drags the tendency is to want more and more power without end! But for a road car 240kw is a fast car and 260 - 280 really fast.If you figure that your turbo is going to blow one day then a rebuilt hybrid will get you up to say 220 on its own or 230 - 240 with bigger injectors and a Z32 afm. If you want 260+ kw then I would seriously consider getting a Link or Vipec - then you can sell your SITC and SAFC and won't need a new afm or better boost controller. But you will need say a GT3076 or Hypergear turbo and bigger injectors and (depending on what you have now) a better fmic. And of course a top tune.

Here's a set - should still be a good price even with freight:http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...n-318175180.htm

Get a bigger turbo. Go to the best tuner in town and ask them which ecu they prefer and use that.

They did design and build the cars and have many very fast RB's!!!

Keep the 3.5 change the rear muffler.

Those ride heights are not low. Mine is at 340/350 and doesn't look particularly low -but i have no body kit at all. From a legal point of view body kits don't count but from a practical point of view if you are going damage it all the time on driveways or parking buildings etc then its probably not the right one.

My instruments used to play up - speedo stuck at some speed temp guage to zero fuel to max or the otherway round. Used to fix it by disconnecting and reconnecting the battery. Check earths etc. Someone suggested (witht he cluster out) waving a heat gun over all the soldered joints. Mine appear to have fixed themselves (touch wood).

My tuner (Scots not Japanese) gets all his customers to put a second bung in the dump for the wideband.

Here is my suspension settings recipe. You obviously can't get this amount of castor without adjustable arms so i have adjustable castor arms and adjustable rear camber arms. Can't afford the front camber adjusters at this point. You can get a small amount of adjustment with eccentrtic bushes. The value of lots of castor is straight line stability at high speed. If you can't get as much as you want you want them at maximum and then back off rhs to 1/4 degree less than lhs. Nissan Stagea RS4T Front Caster Left positive 6 degrees Right positive 5.75 degrees Camber Left 1.0 degree negative Right 1.0 degree negative Toe in Left zero Right zero Rear Camber Left negative 0.5 degrees Right negative 0.5 degrees Toe in Left minus 2mm Right minus 2mm

rich - haven't got a map - can't afford him atm!!

You will need an AFM, stock or GTR bov and some kind of boost solenoid or boost controller.

I was referring to the "over 550hp " which is over 400kw

and turn it around so I don't have to move the monitor!!

We have at least two top Japanese tuners in Auckland including one (Soichi from ST HiTec) to whom people bring RBs from all over NZ for a tune but I guess Japan is closer than Auckland for you at the moment!

Yes they are height adjustable. Read the first few pages of the suspension thread. I have a set in my wagon (although they are labelled Nismo they are actually the same Bilsteins as these). Height adjustment is acheived by grooves on the outside of the tube with circlip retainers and for extreme applications it is quite simple to machine more grooves. But this is not a 5 minute job so if you need to adjust your height from circuit tio circuit these are not for you. Damping is not readily adjustable - its a once only thing where you can change the valving but you need the shocks off the car to do that. However they are a quality shock and can be serviced rather than replaced when worn.

Yes they work fine for the Japanese tuning shops but they are not a good buy second hand if you don't have any way of altering the tune.

I think that's a little ambitious. Some say not but if you read the RB30 thread of dyno results you will see very few big hp that are not at least rebored and balanced if not fully forged. I am using the stock (as in original) crank, pistons and rods with a/m rings, bearings and rod bolts and will be limiting revs to 6, 800 and probably using less. I would like to make 500hp but will be happy if I hit 300awkw and anything else will be a bonus. I can't afford to blow my engine so won't be asking tuner to push the limits. BTW I think stock rods are fine - I expect the pistons to be the weak point.

I would agree with Dean's claim as the latest RS6 is a bit OTT for me. The last model was OK and both are probably better engineered but I would prefer to spend another $40-$50k getting 600awkw for the Stagea rather than have a 2nd hand RS6!

(These are not mine) These look like a good buy even with freight: http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...n-318175180.htm

I have run one with great success ( I am only getting rid of it because I now have a G4 Link and will use that to control boost). The hard bit is they come as a kit ... well 2 kits actually the unit itself and the hand controller.. but still cheap.With the handcontroller you can vary the amount of boost against the duty cycle of the injectors ( better than just rpm when you think about it) so it can easily meet the needs of the OP. There is a huge thread by SK somewhere.

Jaycar IEBC if you can solder.

Your Apexi tt will be reading the stock narrow band O2 sensor so any information about afrs will be useless anyway.

Yep voted for you - would like your car...just needs an RB30/26 and some bigger turbos and I would be so happy!!