LSX-438

Out of interest i put the car up on stands today, and started t up, put it in gear, bit of throttle, turned full lock (left) and no clicking. So when there is no load on the wheels/suspension i dont get the clicking. Might be a clue... anyway i am going to be taking a closer look over the next few days, just ran out of time today.

that's good news. 4 weeks is pretty good! a lot better than i anticipated.

As you know I've been running a "mail order" tune for some time with great success, nil issues and stock drivability of course. Since putting on a catback and intake, I thought it would be time to organise a new tune, or dyno + tuning day in Sydney (and of course, get a certain someone to fly up to Sydney to apply the most recently added R35 Cobb tuning features!). This is a good opportunity to get your R35 tuned in Sydney, even for those with stocker cars (you should see 60+rwkw gains). If we can get a few cars toegether perhaps we can make a day of it? So who wants their car tuned in Sydney? The price should be relatively keen, if we can get a few cars. I want to get my tune tweaked ASAP, so please reply here if interested, or send me a PM (confidentiality assured!) Thanks Duncan

I've had this clicking noise surface recently. It seems the USA boys thinks it is one of these: 1. Missing top pad retaining SPRING (the front calipers usually only have one of these) 2. Rattling pad retaining PIN (as mentioned above) 3. Loose tie rod ends Did you guys resolve this and/or had it resurface?

Yes (the other side is ok) you just need to be gentle and patient with what you're doing, use the correct tools, and know where the clips are.

True, but 1991 was before luxury car tax. Excluding LCT the GTR would cost somewhere between $130k to $140k today. Dunno what other car related taxes were in force at the time (1991) though.

you can download a copy, details on nagtroc

those jack pad adapters looks like a quality bit of gear

Regarding the roof panel sticking up a bit... well we had to take it off the other day to replace a cracked windscreen (again) and here is the reason it is sticking up a bit........ It looks like the guys replacing the windscreen the first time (windscreens obrien) broke it (i remember noticing the panel was sticking up immediately after they did the job, or a day or two after anyway). Moral of the story, if you get your windscreen replaced... check the people doing the job do not break these clips.

How much were R32's here? (when new) you cant compare a new car with something that has had 20 years of depreciation. I reckon in todays money an R32 was MORE expensive than todays R35's (at least in australia anyway).

I found insurance quite reasonable. About $2k. My monaro was about $1k (exposure to them was probably $40k witht he munro) so the R35 at 4x the exposure ($160k) and only double the premium, insurance is a bargain when you think about it. As for the tuning tools, i just think it's simple maths. How many tuning products (cobb or haltech) do you think they will ultimately sell vs other more abundant cars? It's probably hundreds vs thousands of units. I do agreee that the R35 tax exists, but by the same token there are so many vendors coming on board (trying to tap the market) there are new options coming online just about every day. It's great! I say get on board now why the 35 is still relatively great vs any other car out there. Best bang for buck around (in terms of new cars anyway).

Joshua, i think i know of someone who is doing repair work on the old simmons wheels. If that is of any help please send me a PM. cheers mate.

i pulled out the wheel wells myself last week (pulled the whole front off the car to fit the carbon intakes) and to be frank i dont see how the stocker wheel wells could possibly fit on a wider front quarter panels. it physically attaches to the guard lip and then to the body of the car itself (towards the firewall/engine) so how could it possibly fit? Maybe their carbon fenders have an elongated interior gaurd lip tp make it all fit ok.That's the only way it could work. Mabe you can get a photo of the underside?

regarding the wider rubber, i am no expert but i think the answer is "it depends" on a stocker powered R35 the traction control system is calibrated quite well (for stock power) if you were to put on a 295 RE55 all round (so wider up front) it will help dial out some of the "natural" understeer this car has. it works very well and literally transforms the car (minimised understeer and no oversteer). However on cars with increased power (even a tune-only +60rwkw for example) you will start to lose traction & induce oversteer (with say 295's) the traction control system doesnt deal with it (even in 'R' mode) and it will ultimately pull power and you will lose lap time. Time to turn VDC off and drive, or get bigger/better rubber. So in a tuned car perhaps even wider rubber on the rear will help some. However you need to be careful on your tyre / wheel selection, for example the 888's with their softer sidewall just don't work IMO, the car will "walk" (ditto with a few others, for example the Dunlop slick i found woeful). In my experience and observation the RE55 SR2 or Michelin 270/68/18 slicks work best on this car thus far. However i have not tried the R6 Hoosier. Putting a tyre that is too wide for the rim will have the same effect as running a soft sidewall tyre too, the thing will move around and cost you lap time.

Those wheels look great. I think you need to seriously decide which direction you are going with tyres first (if possible). Regarding widths, 295 RE55's go on a 10" rim fine. The dunlop and michelin slicks are a bit wider again (five or ten mm) and still work well on a 10" rim. 9.5" fronts and 11" rears probably give you the widest range of potential options though. can you get a picture of the caliper clearance on those rims? might be tough given the wheel design. the caliper clearance on the te37's and the rotas is 1mm to 3mm, fwiw. It can be a problem if you pick up rocks etc. at the track also, any idea on price landed? i assume 10% import duty and 10% GST? $4000US will equate to about $5300AU landed, after FX conversion and taxes.

I was actually turning VDC Off. Lately i've been running the outlap with it on for a bit of cold tyre safety. Probably a waste of time. Anyway all my PB's are with VDC off (you can't run your quickest with it on). The car wouldnt have done that with VDC on. I was just over-driving with cold/worn slicks simple as that i guess.

Eastern Creek also has private practice for L2S also if you want plain vanilla track time: Friday 5th February Saturday 6th March Friday 12th March Friday 16th April Friday 28th May Friday 18th June Friday 2nd July Friday 6th August Friday 22nd October Friday 29th October Friday 19th November $95 for ARDC members and $125 for non-members

Here is the video, very sloppy but what the hey (my excuse: tyres! and i am sticking to it)

i suppose it depends on what you want the car for. Are you going to track it, do you want lap times?

totally unintentional! the tyres just were not working (dunlop slicks). I have some video i will post up soon (equally sloppy) but gives you an idea

Cheers Mark, we'll most likely go back to the Michelins.. here's a little pic of a pucker moment from yesterday (thanks Brian!)

looks race!

I had a shocker of a day yesterday (last sprint at OP) the slicks were just not working, there was little grip. I was running about 1 second slower than last time i was there (with RE55's) so i am not sure what to say about the brakes yet; i just couldnt get into a groove and was focused on other things. I will say that the j-hooks are rather noisy though, you wouldnt go for them unless you are chasing track times i reckon. Sorry, hopefully i have more meaningful feedback after the next track day.

open to offers

the old Rotors wore out (10+ track days with aggressive pads)