LSX-438

Very interesting! thanks for posting up all that info. The Thunderhill testing was a BMW E36 yeah? impressive results but i reckon the OEM aero on that car is not as good as the OEM R35 setup. Still, very impressive and lots to take in! How much would i page for a GUARANTEED 0.7s improvement? ha ha. Answer: friggin lots.

reports from guys who have used the split wing seem to be marginal over the non-split version. i guess some guys will pay a lot even for just a few tenths.

That exhaust saves 40kg? are you serious. Damn where is my cheque book. Please let us know how you go with the TE37 clearance. (rota's maybe demoted to backup status lol)

At the risk of having my head bitten off (again) thought i would post up the results, running these Rota rims and 2nd hand Porsche Cup slicks. Previously at Oran Park i had run 18" Enkie GTC-01 with RE55's (SR). My time on the GP circuit was 1:16.7, which should translate to a flat 47 or thereabouts on the south circuit. However i had never run the Enkie/55 combo on the short circuit before. Anyhow, as some of you know i stumbled upon these Rota rims - they happen to fit the R35 (just). If you want to argue the merits of these being TE37 copies, please start another thread and/or send your abuse to me via PM. I just want you guys to know the results. Fitment: Front caliper to wheel clearance is extremely close. Probably too close. I ended up running a 3mm spacer to extend the clearance +1mm or so. Running at Oran Park (where the back pit area is like driving through a frigging gravel trap) i was getting a few rocks stuck between the caliper and the wheel. Lots of scratches on the inside wheel and caliper. Not good. Probably a non issue at a clean track though. So fitment, whilst it works, it is not ideal in this regard. Sizes: The rims are 18x9.5x30 (fronts) and 18x10x15 (rears). Tyres were 2nd hand Porsche Cup slicks (270/68/18). IMO these tyres are da bomb. They fit absolutely perfectly, see pic below. You can run the same tyre front and back. Weight of this combination is about 10kg per corner less vs stocker wheels with bridgestones, or 3kg lighter vs the enkei + 55 setup. Insane. Performance: Absolutely sensational, stunning. Now, i was running a new Willall tune which i know helped, but the car felt much lighter and nimble. It was like a difference car in that sense. It took a while longer for the slicks to come on (probably 1.5 laps vs 1.0 laps) and they are more slippery when cold. When they came on there was definitely more grip. I would hazard a guess these tyres have 10% to 15% more grip than the 55's - this is just a seat of the pants guesstimate. Perhaps a new set of the slicks would be better again. Results: Ended up running a 46.3 on the day. So by my estimates this combination is about 0.7s faster on the short track, which should extrapolate to about 1.0 ro 1.2 seconds faster on the GP circuit. Now, as mentioned i was running the Willall tune too, which was a key component to the overall performance on the day, however the short track is rather one dimensional. I think the improvement due to the tune would be greater on the long circuit. Can't wait to try! Rota Robustness: A have a video showing lots of curb hopping on the day, i smashed these rims like all the others We've since had the rims x-rayed and ultrasonically tested. The rims are faultless. I will post the x-rays as soon as we get them converted. I think they are doing some material identification and hardness testing too. So, if you have something disparaging to say about these rims, keep this in mind. Conclusion: Tyres show lots of promise, i would love to run a new set. The rim/caliper clearance is questionable. It does work, but not ideal. I would really like to compare the caliper clearance to say a TE37. If the TE37's have the same clearance, i would not be happy to pay $5000 for a set. So, i am contemplating wht to do. Martin, have you info on the TE37 caliper clearance yet? Really keen to see how you go.

Active aero seems to make a lot of sense to me. What is the situation with prices and local availability? PM me something on the active wing (not the split one, just the one piece item please). cheers

and some points are just incorrect.

i've seen toyo's used in 18" on an R35 and they just dont work as well, as say a 55. problem with the toyos is exactly as described above. the sidewall doesnt seem to be stiff enough and the whole thing compresses and squirms. I reckon the 20" dunlops will be quicker than the 888's or at least on par.

gee i wonder....

Gibbo, really interested in your track impressions with the Dunlops... please let us know.

I am looking at the aeromotions stuf closely atm. I need a second or two extra for next year...

FTD i hear. Fresh tyres and you'll trounce my time easily, nice work. Bring on the 2010 SSC

I'ver already had one crack, replaced under insurance (get one per year) - the windshield people told me the glass alone was $1800 (!). Now i've had another crack and i dont fancy paying $2000+ for a front screen. Anyone have an idea if you can buy them anywhere other than through Nissan? I am guessing not but you never know

ahh ok, yeah he W compared to those cars is probably stretching it a bit

so what has the W427 been compared to which erks you off so much, examples?

A crate motor is $75k so why not? Not to mention trying to actually buy one, i doubt Nissan would sell us one anyway.

At a recent track day, whilst swapping wheels, i was using some cheaper wheel nuts which i think contributed to stripping some stud threads. In addition, running a new set of rims with slicks (and a spacer) there was a general requirement to install some new and longer wheel studs. This thread will take you through the basic steps to replace wheel studs on an R35 GTR. Step 1. Jack car and remove wheel, support car with safety stands as appropriate. You can see the stripped stud here: Step 2: Remove disc rotor. Unfasten the three bolts highlighted below Step 4. Pry caliper off rotor, and whilst supporting caliper, have the rotor removed and set aside. Use the two larger bolts to re-attach caliper temporarily (no need to do up tight) At this point it is worth mentioning that stocker sized studs can be replaced without removing the hub. Simply smash them out with a hammer and maneuver each stud out (you will need to rotate hub to appropriate point for clearance). However the whole point of this how-to is to show how longer studs can be installed... so off we go... Step 5: Remove Central Hub Bolt. First you'll need to remove the lock pin; use a pair of pliers to straighten the pin and tap out. You'll need a 32mm or 1 1/4" socket to unfasten the hub bolt itself. Surprisingly, one of my hub bolts was only finger tight! Step 6: Remove the 4 hub securing bolts (highlighted). You'll need some extension bars as it's quite tricky to get behind there. And the longer the lever the better. Step 7: Remove speed sensor wire from hub.. towards the rear side of the hub itself you will see a wire installed which plugs into the hub. This should be removed before pulling the hub off itself, apparently it's an expensive part and will render the car practically disabled if you damage it. Remove it! Step 8: Pull Hub Off! OK right now you're probabky thinking, i can't believe i am pulling apart my $150k car... am i nuts!! .. but trust me it's easy. Before you pull the hub off, mark which side of the hub is up (it makes a difference) as it will make reinstallation of the hub stress free, and orientation of the hub is important for reinstallation of the speed sensor, trust me... Hub and dust sheild removed.. Step 9: Remove old studs. You're going to need to knock the studs out with a hammer. We just placed a bit of soft wood on the ground, placed the hub assembly on it, and bashed the studs out. Now, i guess it's possible to bash the studs out BEFORE you remove the hub from the car itself. I don't really know what is the better option.. I tend to think off the car is better, on the soft wood, dapening the stress a tad. Here is a pic showing the new and the old studs on the hub: Step 10: Reinstall the hub (and dust shield). Install the four hub bolts, and speed sensor wire too. Fasten up with main hub bolt and install the retaining pin. Install disc rotor. (no comments on the disc crazing pls, fully aware thankyou..) Step 11: We'll need to go through a process to bind the studs onto the hub. There are probably many ways to go about this. This is what we did (not necessarily the most correct ). Firstly, use your wheel nuts (lug nuts to you yanks) to initially tighten in succession... Have a friend hold the disc as you progressively tighten untill the disc slips through the hands. Repeat until it's too uncomfortable for your friend to hold the disc steady. Finally install the wheel and do the same. This process may be different if you have access to high torque power tools. Use your best judgement. Pic of the wheel installed with extended wheel studs installed: SPECIAL THANKS: Special thanks to my good friend Mitta E for all his help during the installation, really appreciate this man!!, i couldnt have done it without you. Also, special thanks to John from vSport for sourcing the studs and nuts, and shipping them so fast as usual. Also Bosnjack Engineering for manufacturing the studs, cheers guys!

Joel whats the supply like for the slicks atm? Got supply after Bathurst? FWIW, i reckon the best semi-slicks for the R35 are RE55's (295's all round); pretty close to the slicks (maybe 85%~90% as good).

Looks like it's running GTC-01's? Are they 18" or 19"?

Has anyone looked at this particular car? i assume the transaxle is totally rooted?

The DS2500's perform next to identical to the factory pads. So if you want something similar i would go with them. Availability ig good also, you can get a set shipped to your door the next day. Btw a friend of mine just bought a set of MX72's for $800AU landed to his door (fronts AND rears) from the USA.

Thanks for the heads up Snowy. I've been reviewing the national supersprint regs. Are you entering btw? If so (and/or q. others entering) which class? I have some questions about the "standard" class. I wonder if you can run a tune? I cant see any reference to it in the rules. In addition the rules state "Wheel diameter may be altered from standard to the NEXT SIZE larger or smaller" - so I guess that means R35 owners cannot downsize to 18". They also say legal road tyres only, are RE55's tolerated as legal tyre? They are on the CAMS tyre list so I presume they are ok. However if we can't run 18's then I suppose there is no choice except to run in the modified car class? Thoughts?

I ran about three track days with the stocker pads, and another half dozen or so with the stocker pads in the rear (running XP12's in the front) and i didnt have a problem. I still put the stocker pads back in if there is a rest between events. They are slightly cracked but that's ok. With other cars I've found most damage is done by running the car very hard/hot and then not cooling down sufficiently. I reckon a lot of damage is done by just coming in from a hard session and bringing the car to a rest far too soon. Depending on the track i usually drive out onto the street and drive up the road and back, at least a for a few minutes. Or else circulate in the pits for a while. I think it makes a difference and not only just for brakes.. Anyway i reckon the idea of replacing the rotors/pads with something aftermarket upfront a great idea regardless. $12500 for rotors and pads is bordering on criminal. It's not like you are getting anything better by paying 3x the price either, in fact, the stocker stuff is quite inferior and just a compromise (for the street). Jeez you could buy the Stillen Carbon brake system for about $20k aussie, hmmm...

Thanks for the pic! I'm not sure what class will make sense next year for the R35's. Need to see the rules first (they are being revised in relation to AWD Turbos i believe). I think the gist of it is, no AWD Turbo's in Type 1, and those in Type 2 will not be allowed any modification to anything related/directly attached to the motor (so no engine mods or tune, no exhaust/midpipe). However it sounds like you will still be allowed to run different size wheels and have suspension mods. But we'll have to wait and see. As for Jason Wright, i dont think he'll have much to worry about!! Last time out at OPGP he ran 1:14.2 i think (on his shakedown run in the new setup) so that translates to a mid 45.x on the short track. I'm just not going to be able to get near that without taking significant weight out of the car. Then again, half of this is about some luck so you never know what might happen

Thanks Neil. I've heard rumblings this morning that people are complaining i should not have been in Type 4 without a cage. So it looks like people are questioning it already.. From the rulebook: Type 4. 3D Sports Sedans exactly as defined in the CAMS Manual. In addition, any vehicle that conforms to Type 1, 2, 3 or SV requirements shall be permitted to employ or use racing "slicks" but if it does so it shall be classified as a Type 4 vehicle. So, by my reading i've done the right thing? Anyway it's all good fun, and half luck in the end

thanks Duncan! yeah just got back too. I am stuffed, it was a looong day. Results here: http://www.natsoft.com.au/cgi-bin/results..../2009.ORAN.S2.Y The whole year and it came down to two tenths and one point. I can't believe it. How good are these GTR R35's? We'll try and get some pics and vids up soon.