LSX-438

lol, yeah, because that's exactly what this is about, isn't it......... ffs.

If the rotors are not stuffed, why not just get some aftermarket pads fitted. Problem solved.

Jesus H Christ! $12500!? You can get a set of pads for $1000 (front a rear, say DS2500's - very comparable to stockers) and a full set of AP rotors for $3200. Factor in $300 for fitting (max) you're then looking at $4500. (PM me if you need a contact to buy in Australia) .. anyway, yeah, why are they replacing rotors too? Surely they arent still pushing the idea you need to replace rotors AND pads simultaneously, regardless of how good the rotors and/or pads are separately? Goodluck; paying $12500 because you have a set of stuffed pads, or even fatigued rotors, is extremely excessive given the alternatives available (which i believe are better than OEM anyway).

Thanks Gibbo. If I was setting up for a casual track days, unbound by the CAMS tyre list, I would probably go with the 19" RE30's and Hoosier R6's - I haven't tried them myself but a lot of the guys in the US have and they seem to work well by all accounts. Plus you just have less woes with sizes/clearances/offsets etc. They look good too However you obviously can't drive to the track on slicks... I've probably gone through 5 sets of tyres this year and (at $2500 a set) it adds up pretty quick! 19" 888's are significantly more $$ again. I am not even going to entertain the idea of the new 20" R's (quite evidently I am a cheap bastard, ha ha ). As for rim quality comments, some here should be careful about what they commit to writing on a public forum. We are looking to arrange alloy density uniformity testing via spectagram analysis with complimentary ultrasonic strength testing, possibly next week. So.. those with facts to back up their statements having nothing to worry about (and those talking out of their arse.. goodluck with that!) I am NOT joking.

Interesting. And what of these "VDC off" changes? I thought the whole ESP thing was related to the LC1/2 implications. Hmm, interesting.

We looked into that, the Enkie's dont really have enough meat really. Another option is (i have heard) there is an adjustable upper control arm available now or soon. So you could lean the top arm in more, which would give more camber too. I looked into getting custom wheels made (by Simmons) just before they closed doors, about $1200/rim.

To answer my own question, and with help from NAGTROG member Neoseven, yes you DO have to remove the wheel hub to get new wheel studs in (done fronts tonight). I have taken a bunch of pics and plan to do a writeup showing how it's all done for anyone is interested. FWIW, i think it's possible to replace the stocker sized studs without removing the hub, however to install elongated studs the hub just have to come off. There are a few little tricks to it, and shortcuts which i will put in the writeup.

The 18x10's (GTC01's) that i have been running have a 22mm offset all round. So not ideal at all. Depending on the tyres they stick out from the front guards, which is against CAMS rules for motorsport events. I think even the TE37's stick out somewhat. I guess it's just a question of offsets etc. Spacers will not solve the problem (the wheels need to come in). I've done other mods to try and bring the top of the control arm in, but it's just not enough Even a rota with 30mm offset isnt completely ideal.

Yes one of the reasons for the cheaper 2nd hand slicks (apart from the obvious $$) it to just see if the setup is doable and yields results. I've had a few issues which I am trying to sort out, so fitting longer studs tonight for example, and there are some wheel clearance issues due to offset woes which I will elaborate on soon. When I get it sorted I may buy new slicks ($720+ ea though!) and possibly some other wheels with more appropriate offset. Will keep you guys posted. Also, I've been told that dunlop slicks warm up quicker than the michelins... (anyone have direct experience?) so they may be more suited to sprints than the michelins. Given the amount of tyres I go through I might stick with the 2nd hand michelins IF I can get some more that is... Edit: Regarding pressures, i've been targeting 32 or 33psi hot - however i dont have any experience with slicks, so this may be wrong. Some have told me less, some have told me more... i am thinking around 32psi and see how it goes.

ok nisskid, you've made your point. It's your opinion and that's fine. Here's mine: You have nothing actually useful to contribute here. Your idea on the whys, wherefors and motivations is just wrong and serves absoluetly no point whatsoever except to make constant childish points designed to insight stupid circular arguments. You might think the wheels are shithouse, that's fine. Some don't necessarily agree. Anyway you've made your caustic points, now piss off.

Actually, Bob Jane (and Jax) do sell Enkie's - GTC01's - wheels that a lot of people are using on R35's (some 18's, some 20's). Lots of guys in the USA use them too. You can buy them from tirerack. FWIW I dont find it hilarious at all. Maybe you are just thinking too hard about it. What you need to understand is there are only three 18" rims known to fit over the R35 brakes. This really isnt about money, moreso availability of wheels in the right size and offset.

Quick question: has anyone changed wheel studs on an R35? How did you do it? It looks like the hub itself needs to come off. Interested in info from people who have done it. Did you need a puller to get the hub off? cheers.

I understand what you are saying. I am not trying to infer that "lightweight" is automatically more robust or stronger. Sure these wheels may be shithouse, fair enough, I really dont know. I was quoted $6k a set for some Rays a few months back, and at the time a) it would take two months to get them in and b) nobody had tried them on R35's. Anyway, with the dollar the way it is, it may be time to look at that option again. What i can guarantee though (through first hand experience with ther R35) is that the 18" Enkie's + RSpec tyres are far superior to the factory wheels/tyres for the track, at least with RE55's, in terms of price, handling and results (lap times). I can't really judge how robust the enkei's are however. I've given them hell and they seem to have held up well fwiw.

Guys, I've been running the 18" Enkie GTC01 and RE55's for 12 track days in my R35 and it is a MASSIVE improvment over the stocker 20's - in terms of weight (the enkie's are 6kg lighter ea. than stockers, which is huge too) not to mention that the RE55's shit over anything in larger sizes, IMHO. The "problem" is i need to run 18's due to rubber selection, this isnt negotiable (in fact, it's not a problem, it's a huge advantage if you can be farked). The other issue is that enkie only make the 18x10's in 22mm offset, which does not work with the staggered R35 offset arrangement. The fronts stick out of the guards for starters.. it does work fine (no rubbing) but this isnt really in keeping with motorsport rules. Hence, why i have been looking for some 18's with the right offset. That's when the rotas came along. Look, i had NFI they were seen as inferior or poor quality - and to be frank it does look like they had some failures about 4 years ago, but i am not convinced they are all automatically shit. I have tried the slicks and rota's at Oran Park GP and all i have to say is, they helped make the car quicker than the modified GT2 around the south circuit in the latest motor mag test. That's all i am saying for now. Now if anyone knows where i can get some Rays/Volks 18x9.5x30 (fronts) and 18x10x15 wheels, please let me know. Even 2nd hand. I gave up looking locally after searching for months. And FWIW, these enkei, rays and rota wheels are the only 18" rims known to fit the r35 to date.

thanks for the links. Bosnjack Engineering apparently sell them too (for R35) - the extended studs, i have ordered some Those project mu nuts looks schmick (should be for $400!)

I only had a handful of laps on the new wheels and slicks, but what i can say is the car felt much lighter and more nible (saving 10kg per corner over stock). More lateral grip of course, it felt awesome. Definitely a second or two quicker then the RE55's - I will give you guys some more impressions when i get the new wheel studs installed and get back out there. I need more practice to realise what the slicks have to offer.

I sure am! And sure did. Only got one session with the tune in though, unfortunately i had other issues (stripped wheel studs!) when swapping wheels out.. so i had to cut it short today unfortunately. What i did experience was impressive though, more linear power application. And Jesus the top end is insane, i was literally overshooting turn 1 at Oran Park South (several times). I'll have a write up when i can get some more track time in, end of next week.

Yep, i ran one of Martins tunes today at Oran Park... only got one session on the slicks (and tune) but the car was brilliant. Full write up to come after the next supersprint round, next week

thanks for the links, much appreciated. I have sent off an email to those people. I only need the longer studs (not for use with the stocker wheels). See what they say. Plus i need them rather urgently, got the final round of the state sprints next week, so probably cannot wait for something to arrive form the USA.

Any anyone installed longer wheel studs on their R35? I used some cheapish wheel nuts which have farked up a couple of studs. I might install some stocker ones again, but thought i might think about some stonger/longer ones. Anyone? Also after some quality elongated wheel nuts, any recommendations? Cheers

thanks for the link. Like most of these matters, i only have more questions than answers now! Were most of these breakages just people who lost it and smashed into gutters? Who knows. I'll have to talk to the importer, see if they can shed some light on it. Hmmm.

sorry i didnt stick around, sounds like things got better in the arvo. I hope the karting bloke is ok, it all looked very serious with several ambos, cops and the chopper Anyone who wants another chop at OP there are two private practice days this week.

Got to ask (about these ROTA rims) has anyone seen any failures with them? A few of the guys on the USA forum are saying they are shit. Now i know they are cheap and that probably does mean something. I've done a bit of reading and it does seem there were some failures in 2005 (different rims, thin spoked ones) but thought i would ask if anyone has had problems with these rims? I notice a few skylines people using them (similar in style to above, probably TE37 copies) so maybe someone can chime in?

Planning on heading out to OP yep. Unless it's torrential rain.

They are just cast like Koya's yes. TE37 copies i guess. $379each. And the slicks were $200 each.