LSX-438

I wouldnt pay much attention to the ACCEL and BRAKE indicators, they are just fed from the driftbox ~ measuring g-forces. ie. not meant to be accel/brake pedal % I really should remove those.

Stuart this is the camera i am using: http://www.vsport.com.au/ecommerce/?categoryID=157 Overall i am happy with it. I wouldnt say it's sensational though. As far as useability and robustness it is 100% - image quality isnt as good as i would like it. I think it complies with the CAMS 100gm rule (for the camera head anyway). It comes with a little RF remote for turning it on and off, which is handy. You simply download the video from the unit or the secure digital memory card (it can take an 8gb card). A supersprint session would take about 150mb (on higher quality setting) so it's good for a lot of video. I have tried several like this (which take memory cards) - before that i was using a miniDV (tape) camera, and i have to say none of the memory card cameras have come close to the "raw" quality of the miniDV. But frigging around with tapes etc. is a pain too. In the end, if the vids are on computer and/or youtube, there probably isnt much point in higher quality. It just shits me that a $250 miniDV tape camera yields a better quality image than a $1000 memory card one. Anyway, the CAMS people have not given me any grief about this "POV" camera. The data overlays are done using driftbox data and merging the two using special software (that doesnt come with the camera). cheers mate

True, but it's just a ltitle logo on the front though isnt it? That's not going to be visible (with car parked in forwards). Plus i think anyone that close to the car (to make out that logo) and looking for something to steal is going to work it out regardless. I'm just trying to hide this from the casual driver by.

Marek is running the same 18" rims but with Toyo R888's Here is a video chasing Marek...

You home already Stuart? ha ha. Nice work on piloting your R33 to a R35 smashing 1:44.18 - nice work man, you deserve that big time. Well done. Any video?

I managed a 1:44.x (1:44.80) at Eastern Creek today in the R35. There were modified R33 and R34's which ran 1:44.18 and 1:37.8 respectively, impressive stuff! Official Results here: http://www.natsoft.com.au/cgi-bin/results....08/2009.ARDC.S1

If you were to ask for a complete OEM Nissan pad and rotor swap, i believe it will be in the vicinity of $8000 to $10,000 (and that doesnt include calipers nor lines). A full brake system would surely be $20k or more. This is for ordinary cast iron & cross drilled rotors mind you. However most people are buying aftermarket pads and rotors, which are about half these prices (and better spec too). If you have an OEM motor/gearbox/brake system and want to offload it, PM me please.

jeez i would have thought car covers do more damage OUTSIDE, where the wind constantly moves the thing around, scratching the paint etc.

I have heard notional figures of AU$45k for the transmission and AU$75k for the engine (new prices) regardless of IF they can be purchased. Not that you would buy a crate motor for $75k (if you could) you would instead build something better etc. If you have need of one and can get it cheap, grab it!

so anyway today, at Eastern Creek, a certain R34 ran 1:42's today (easily, in traffic).. and will probably dip into sub-40 space tomorrow. Much quicker than a stocker R35.

I reckon a well modded/lightweight R32~R34 (in the right hands - not mine!) will be faster than a stocker 35. It should be. Do serious mods the an R35 and things might be different. Sure you can go down the road of comparing a $150k new car to something which has almost depreciated to the point of a nothing - then gut that beast and apply serious mods / dollars. Makes for interesting reading but hardly fair or useful when arguing the merits of how good each of the respective STOCKER products were new. Here's a stupid argument: How much was a new R32 in todays money? The were $130k or thereabouts new right? How much is that equivalent to today? $200k, $300k??.. And how much can you pick one up for today (shitty clunker to rebuild say) & why do i ask? Think about how much has been sunk in depreciation on that R32, $150k ~ $200k ~ $300k? Ok... so go and spend that AGAIN on serious mods (as someone suggested) how much has been spent on the LIFE of the car to finally arrive at this R35 smashing point? ... $300k+ Jeez man, what a waste, the total collective spend on that car was $300k merely so you can go as fast as a $150k stocker. I know i know... stupid argument. But probably no more silly vs comparing 20 year old race car prepped R32's or whatever to a modern & comfy production car today.

thanks for the tips Guys. I did end up buying a genuine one from a US vendor for $298US + $65US shipping. I didnt need a storm proof one, it's indoors only. The reason i needed one: there was a violent car jacking in my suburb last week (involving a gun and shots fired apparently!) and as i live on a busy road near where it happened, i would rather the car be out of sight when my family is otherwise opening and closing the gargage door.

thanks guys. Dunno if i can bring myself to pay $800 for a car cover I see a number of online vendors selling them for about US$300 (genuine) The problem is finding one who will ship them to australia for a decent shipping price.

I tried Nissan today but the AU service/parts people dont seem to be able to help

Has anyone sourced a genuine R35 car cover? If so, how much and where from? Otherwise anyone bought an off the shelf "generic" item? thx

So... back to what r35's have run at Eastern Creek. This one ran a 1:41.57 la the Shannons Nationals recently... http://www.natsoft.com.au/cgi-bin/results....7/2009.ARDC.Q10

so what are the cheapest prices for the dunlops locally?

no GTR tax?

Ahh ok, i thought Mr Tuna was perhaps installing a new/bigger tank. I do wonder how the R35's will go around the mountain, three laps, then in for a refuel!

It really confounds me why people would want to put a traditional box in an R35. It's at the heart of what the car is about, moreso than the engine. To say it shouldn't have that box is just insane. Despite the fact it would cost at least $50k to do it, the thing would be significantly slower (around a track anyway). And if you don't care about that, well, you shouldnt be buying an R35 in the first place. If you REALLY need that h-pattern fix, just spend $50k on a worked Evo or something else instead - it will be quicker than a neutered GTR that's for sure. Newsflash: driving a h-pattern gearbox doesnt validate masculinity nor put hairs on your chest.

"In flight?" re-fueling? That wouldnt be related to the 12 hr would it? Some CAMS people tell me the $$ rules are about the change which should see some GTR's return to the mountain. Speaking of which, you might sell a truckload of coolers Martin! (or another truckload)....

Sounds great, any indication on the Dunlop prices? and out of interest has anyone tried the dunlops at the track, relative to the bridgestones? really would like some hard data on how much quicker they are from those who have tried them

I am getting about 18l/100km around town (50:50 stop start / cruising) and down to about 10l/100km on the open freeway. On the track, the thing drinks fuel like there is no tomorrow! I have to take jerry cans. It drinks more fuel then my 438cube V8 Monaro did (not that i really care)

sounds like some good advice, nice. I am thinking of keeping the 1kg item for the cabin, and maybe a 2kg item mounted in the boot.

I've also installed th Willall y-pipe, sound seems to be getting "meatier" after some k's too. I expected it to to a bit quieter with come carbon build up, but it seem to be getting better? It's great because you can actually hear the car now! Encourages you to use the box in manual mode through town etc. Love it!