boostn0199

Can you put a pic will help more.

+1 for cutting with a grinder so easy and clean. I mark out where I have to cut and then just use a thin cutting disc just dont go to slow or else it heats up the plastic and melts and looks shit.

Whats the use of the car?

ill give you 50 if you really want to get rid of them.

My stock ones dont have any marking on them like yours so maybe they are aftermarket.

Did you just replace it with a standard one? or was the one you replaced reinforced to make it stronger? Are you running a heavy clutch? next would be check the hydralics in the system master and slave. Quick test maybe you should do is unbolt the slave from the box and push it in by hand all the way and it should pop back out on its own if you let go if it doesnt sign that faulty slave. Next after those two would be the painful one of having to see if your fork or pivot ball arent broken.

I think its for ground thats where mine leads to.

No worries mate just gota build it up little by little and enjoy it.

Well its pretty much at where I wanted it to be engine wise and suspension wise for this years season of drifting so Im hoping to be able just concentrate on drifting as much as I can this year and not having to worry about changing or adding anything, so will pretty much just be fix something if broken and spend the rest of the money on tyres lol.

Thanks man, the fmic is just one of the just jap return ones.

I traced it back to the HICAS system which makes sense since it relies on pulses to get the steering angle so I just discarded it since im not running hicas.

Use a spacer to make it fit it biggie.

Small update, was looking at the wiring loom and wasnt convinced on it being safe even though I tucked it up as much possible so decided to bite the bullet and do the biggest drainer option of cutting and extending and re-running through engine bay. Atleast got peice of mind now.

bump

Thats nothing like above said reo will have to be changed and rear bar either repair or another 2nd hand one probably better option and you will need to push the rear body out with a hydralic repair kit. Mine had similar damage but abit more and fixed it up in a couple of hours.Also boot lid might be deformed aswell have to check it.

Redline shockproof lightweight for box and castrol saf xa for diff.

mods:s2 rb25det 140,000km, usual bolt ons z32 nismo 555 etc, nismo intank pump with 044 surge tank feed, hypergear tr43i turbo fuel: caltex e85 power:307kw 17psi oil:motul 4100 power useage: track drift car lifespan:2 years and still going failure: not yet comments: seems to be strong motor ran 2 years about 200kw, 1 year 270kw prior to this setup when was daily. Has survived a couple of track days with faulty CAS making it run lean at around mid 14s and no problems.

Driftworks ones are great quality and much cheaper than jap branded ones cant fault mine.

If its a street only car i dont see a point really of fitting a oil cooler but yeah if you must def need thermostat or else it never warms up. I cant even get my track car past 70 on 35 degree day when driving normal.

Just follow a guide for r33 irs same thing or the workshop manual. You wont get the timing exact without a light so youll need to set it with one

Ahahah your crazy 13 inches going to be a mean widebody once done. What size tyres would you run on them?

When using the multi did you use the ground off the tacho to test? If you didnt could be dodgy ground.

Thanks. But what do you mean keep all 3 wires well apart? Cant i wrap The loom up after? Or just make sure there well insulated. Is that the cas wire?

Just rerunning my loom at the moment and need to extend it and a question on this particular wire. The big brown wire in the pic has a black and white wire inside it and also bare wire. My question is if I dont have a wire like that to extend it with do I just run 3 separate wires 1 to the black 1 to the white and 1 to the bare?

I been real lazy and pretty much let this thread die of the last couple of months and though Id bring it back again today. Have done quite a bit of work since the last update and now getting the car ready for the 2012 season. Basically had a couple of practice days end of the year to finsh off 2012 and both were cut short off full days as split a cooler joiner and didnt have any spares and the next one ended having a small tap with a guy tandeming behind me cause I spun didnt do any body damage which was great but he drilled straight into my oil cooler and ripped it to peices so that was the end of my day. Had a few months break now until the 2012 season started at the end of feb with matsuri so I had a plan of things to get done before then. First was take care of work in the engine bay. 1 was to remove the whole aircon system as it was no need and taking up room. Next I relocated my oil cooler to infront of the radiator to have it in a safer position to prevent it from getting smashed, bought a new 53mm koyo radiator to help out with cooling espcially in the summer installed that in aswell. As youve probably noticed in my pics my fmic has been crooked for years lol so decided to fix that all up and the next issue was Ive a power steering leak all year which has been worsening so replaced the leaking hoses and also all the seals in the pump and added a ps cooler for peice of mind, cant go wrong for 10bux for a used tranny cooler off a falcon. The engine bay stuff sorted it was onto the front end suspension work. Plan was to install some modified knuckles to gain a heap more lock and also to imporve transistion into corners as r33s lack that due to there weight. Got knuckles modded by JDI, lengthend my LCA by 25mm and knotched them, picked up some ikeya tierods and new tie rod ends, installed some driftworks offset rack spacers to eliminate any chance of binding, relocated brake line bracket as wheels were rubbing on them now due to so much lock, removed the guard and tucked up loom along with making a steel sheild for it to protect it from possible rubbing. Finally installed some subframe c collars in the rear to stiffen things up. Decided on getting a new set of wheels for the new 2012 setup, this time with decent offset so ordered 6 rota grids in gloss black from wheeltech fronts 17x9 +25 with a 20mm spacer rears 17x9.5 +12. At this point my computer room was starting to look like a warehouse lol. I was really wanting something new in terms of appearance for the car for the new year and with just new rims wasnt going to cut it so spent sometime thinking about some options of what I could do the car which wouldnt require a redicoulously budget, look good and also be completely different. I started looking into getting the car wrapped as this was becoming a new trend so decided to have the car wrapped in urban camo using the base paint and wrapped the hood in matt black. Im extremely happy with how it turned out even better than I thought it would and acheived exactly what I wanted, completly new look to the car. If anyone needs any car wrapping of custom decals or anything cosmetic I cant recomend carx in clayton enough top quality work and great guy with good pricing. Anyway thats where Im at now.