boostn0199

If you can use a spanner just take the arms off yourself and take it to the suspension joint to press in the new bushes for 10 bux each itll save you a couple of hundred probably.

Ask stao if the g3 would suit your goals more there hes turbos so hes the one that will give you the best answer.

Yeah guy above is right the universal ones tri ones dont work on rb best make your own its not hard.

pics of rims on the car.

Ohh lol didnt see that.

Yeah i got them at .8 on 18 psi its fine aswell.

Just chuck it into gear then torque wrench it. I always do it and its enoigh to be held in place.

Just stick with ngk coopers prpven to work well on rbs and cheap. Rule of thumb if your running up to 12 psi use bcpr6es at 1.1 gap if over 12 psi use bcpr7es .8 gap.

Open or closed doesnt matter up to you. Just matters that the taper angle is correct which most rims have 60 degree.

For street 10-40 but for track 15-50

Because its playing up and also its a track only car so having it in there only adds another problem if the remote dies or something and you cant start the car.

bump

I just picked up a small tranny cooler from a falcon and it seems to be enough doesnt have to be as big as a oil cooler. Best part all up cost 40 bux total when i went out and bought hose.

Depends how much power youll be making if the injectors and pump will be enough. In my case Im at 300mark with nismo 555 and theres not much left in them so Id say maybe up to 350 you should get away with the 740 but the pump might need a 044 or a nismo if going more than 300.

Even the arms are only +-3degrees, I couldnt get more than -3 camber so I extended my LCA.

Up to you where you put aslong as the sandwich plate to oil filter isnt mixed up its fine.

Just wanting to remove my mongoose m60 alarm system and go back to stock anyone got any easy ways of doing it? Im not really fussed about removing all the physical wiring and boxes themselves just cut whatever needs to be cut and joined to make it work standard again.

There not that hard to install pretty easy providing your confortable with doing a timing belt you should have no problem. Just follow the workshop manual it has a pretty good step by step only thing I would recoment you do is rotate the crank a few degress backwards from TDC when removing and installing cams then align cam gears followed by crank also would be a good idea to upgrade the valve springs and replace valve seals if your changing cams.

Just curious what is the procedure guys are using the run in there built motors always have heard mixed answers?

Well definately dont need intake camgear as your retaining vct, I put an exhuast cam gear on mine but my tuner found it made gains on the stock setting so didnt end up changing the position so I didnt end up needing it.

Yeah there pretty similar sound to stock maybe a tad bit more rough and sound abit more like a rb26 up higher revs more deeper note. They are fine to drive off boost it wont feel like a pig but yeah main gains will be through midrange and a little bit up top.

What about mounting the surge under the car if you dont want to lose boot space?

I wouldnt think there would be an issue.

Its supposed to make the clutch pedal a little softer so removing it the pedal becomes a little more heavy, though I feel any noticeable difference when removed mine.