boostn0199

The rails on 34 gtt are only ones that are diff between the skylines so you would need to mod the rails.

Im fitting a new radiator so might aswell do a full engine flush.

Just wondering what are some fo the easiest ways people do this the way Im thinking of is undo that drain plug on the side of the block (rb25 so its not that hard to get to) then let all the coolant drain out of it then getting a hose and flush from the top radiator hose until all the water is clear coming out of the drain plug and this way all the water would come out and not be in the block. What do you guys think?

Were you actually experiencing fuel surge on the track? If not then yeah you dont need one. In my case when ever I had anything less then 1/2tank on hairpin turns my car would surge so chucked a surge tank in and no problem now can run til empty if I want. But by the sounds of things your not actually describing experincing fuel surge but just high knock levels.

I dont think you can.

If your really worried maybe install another water gauge and see what that says.

Just tee it in between the line from acruator to cooler pipe.

I found was about 10kw for me when I did a back to back and that was at 260kw.

Well if you chuck them in you got to shorten toe on both sides by 6mm since you are extending each rod. Also if you dont grind down your lock stops on your knuckle you wont get any added lock so just grind down as much as you can before your rimsstart fouling anywhere.

Leak anywhere in your hydraulic system causing air to get in? It shouldnt have that much pressure that its hard to compress the piston in could be wrong adjustment on the push rod.

Well if you dont have all the bolt on upgrades like turbo injectors etc kind of pointless building or changing engines if your current one is fine. Do the bolt on upgrades get a good tune and if the motors half decent it will last a while. When it goes bang then think about motor options.

Yeah I bought one from crazy sales there faulty mine didnt register at all the fitting leaks to the gauge I think.

Dont buy cheap fitting last thing you want is for them to fail and piss out oil and coolant or not even seal at all its worth paying abit more for fittings.

If your going metal tomei are one of the better ones in terms of how tolerant they are to surface finish as for myself working without a deck or anything, cosmetic are abit cheaper but needs a really good surface finish, nitto are good items to but I am unsure of how good the surface has to be for them I would get the tomei if your going metal cant go wrong.

Sounds like a massive leak to me the way its running, thats how it runs when youve blown a pipe out. If you want to do a proper leak test get a pcv end pipe and cut a hole and glue a compressor fitting onto it then take the afm off and stick that on and run compressed air through 15psi or whatever you want and listen for leaks, cant think of any other reason it would run like that since all youve done is put a cooler so all I can see it being is a leak somewhere or some hoses you forgot to plug in.

Why not chuck a nismo one in for the added security since there not that expensive?

Always always check again and again when doing the belt before you tension it, after you tension it, then give it a few more rotation and check again so you know its right. It helps using a mirror when trying to see if the crank mark is lined up as its sometimes hard to see exactly. Use the marks on the belt to line them all up then count again to make sure but yeah it is possible for a faulty cas to retard it like that so that can be next checklist once your 100percent sure the belt is lined up.

So are you trying to say that the stock one and metal one are as strong as each other? Like I said the standard will do the job in hes case but metal ones are stronger and added bonus can be re used and to me if your putting it in a track car who knows whens the next time something goes wrong and you gota pull the head off and atleast you wont have to bother with a new gasket again.

The standard will do the job but yeah tomei is better and can be reused if you ever pull the head off. I put a tomei 1.2mm into my rb25 and its drift use only so far no problems all year using it and in regards to people saying you gota have perfect surface to use one its not exactly true, if your using a cosmetic one yes the finish has to be redicoulously good but the tomei are more tolerant and aslong as you within factory specs you wont need to deck it as I didnt deck my block as both head and block were within factory specs and no problems.

Yeah mine looks like that its 2 peice with joiners works fine.

In regards to the 25/30 check the rb30 build page theres a good thread which goes through it all and has a document pretty much explaining everything that needs to be done. But yeah basically it is a great option to the price of a rb30 block is virtually free, youl get the added torque and response from the upped displacement. Ecu you can still just run the rb25 ecu you have.

Not worth it as one the engine is alot more pricey than a rb25 and condtion wise you never know could go bang. You could probably buy 2 or 3 rb25 for the price of one rb26 and when modified and tuned if you choose the correct turbo setup I personally think you can get as good performance from the 25 you just cant rev as high. I would be going for a 25 rebuild and setting up a nice 200-300kw depending on what your after and choosing the right turbo for the job and youll have a reliable and fast car.

Just get a intake pipe made they dont cost to much and tell them to weld on one nipple for the breather line.

yeah take the wheel off dont do it with it on it.

Yeah its a full time track car