boostn0199

Ive been researching how to install a hydraulic handbrake and I have worked out it is simple enough where you connect one side from the handbrake to the master then the other to the rear t peice but what do you do when the car has abs like in my case where the master line goes into the abs then to the brakes?

Im doing my knuckles soon and I have bought a set of ikeya tie rods they are massive so they will be enough but yeah as for the rest as others have said need camber arms to bring back the camber.

From what ive seen the diff bw nismo and standard susp bits is nismo is beefier and strong but dimension wise i think there same.

Pressure test the systemjust to fully rule out any leaks ands it shit easy find them when car not running i spent ages looking for onethendid pressure test and found it straight away.

I seem to remember reading somewhere arp head studs dont have to be changed is that true?

yeah what he said and will help if you got a ratchet spanner.Putting on is worse because you have to start it on the thread lol fun times.

Itll probably be fine but like anything theres always a chance it will fail kind of like not changing tensioners and idlers when doing belt prob wont fail but you never. Personally whenever i have made decisions on not changing where it is recomended it always eats me up inside like you dont know if its suddenly going to break lol so now i dont care and always be safe and change where things are at chance of failing.

Yes it can still be playn up. Try setting the cas at some extreme position and see if it starts if it does cas playn up obviously easiest way is too borrow one.

Wtf thats bs not accepting responsibility aslong as you didnt fo any work and there the only ones that tpuched it there fault also since they agreeed it was too tight and re did it again there fault and thats bs about retensioning a belt it only applies if the belt has already been in for a while and worn in theres nothing wrong with retensioning a new belt.

Ive seen them for gtr on ebay in the uk as im aslo looking for one but for gtst.

Never get why ppl complain about 2ways shimmed welded diffs for street i drove on weldy with 300 kw on the street for over a year and no problem if you drive properly its fine besides being abit noiser theres not much difference for everyday.

Wondering if anyone knows any places that do good prices on koya drift tek rims. So far the best i have is advanced tyres 17x8 $295 ea and 17x9 $330 ea.

the 400r is more like the monaro yellow isnt it?

Great work looks good and most important thing did the job.

Time for a update. Went to my first drift comp last week drift attack at calder and it was a difficult day with the track being really wet in the morning practice sessions and also ended up having issues with my surge tank, one of the welds developed a leak so didnt get much practice runs in trying to fix it and did my qualifying runs while being kind of conservative due to lack of practice which ended up being not enough to qualify for top 16 but anyway good learning experience and had fun on calder park for the first time. Heres a few pics from the day and my temp fix of the surge tank lol is there anything that cable ties cannot fix. Got around to installing my roll cage that I had purchased and decided to strip pretty much all the plastics in the car while sticking it in.Also ordered a driftworks 4 point racing harness and installed that aswell. Nice sunny day today so decided to try out my guard roller that I purchased a few weeks ago and flare my front guards. Did the job pretty well I pumped them out a decent amount.

Shit thats a great effort build the car from nothing in 10days then to road tune on the way and drive it for the first time you did well nice drifting.

Did you make sure you bled it properly most of the time thats the problem after flushing the system it takes ages for all the air to get out.

Its not that there not correct but all aftermarket LCA make one common one for skyline and s-chasis so thats why it ended up like that.

Just got various interiors bits and peices from a s2 33 gtst. - passenger and driver pillars (driver has gauge pod on it) $10 each -Roof carpet $20 -Passenger and driver sun visors $10 each -rear seat belt buckles $10 each -Rear drivers and passenger side trim $15 each -Rear upper driver and passenger trim with complete seatbelt setup $15 each -Whole centre console assembly $20 -Standard steering wheel $25 -air bag controller (thing under the centre console) $10 -Complete set floor mats $50 SE suburbs melb call/sms 0422445339 or PM me

Theres not much you can bash on the inside but depends how much clearance you need you might be lucky. With the wiring you can take your guard off and try pull it up as high as you can and cable tie it up which should give you enough room.

And what did it start slipping now after 1500km? Did it ever slip before that when you were trying it out? What clutch is it btw?

I dont like your chances with warranty as this is why they put the requirements to wear in. As i said if you try thrash it straight away but you do overheat it too much then yes you can damage it. What exactly did you do how did you drive? And how many kms has it been?

Did you notice the difference in the bearings when you changed them? Strange as my freind has a r31 with rb30 and a 25 box using a rb30 clutch kit and its fine. The only difference I would of thought between the kits would be different clutch and pressure size since there flys are diff.And how did the clutch fit if it was for a rb30 flywheel?

You can always adjust the pushrod on the master thats connected to the pedal to change the pedal engage postion.

Well its one of those things where theres two sides, one say it is essential to wear it in for 500-1000 but other say pretty much you just thrash let it cool down thrash let it cool down a few times and its done. For example if its a track car you really cant afford to much around with driving around for 500km so a couple laps around the track thrash cool down and usually its fine. ive done both ways and have been fine but yeah personally I think its just a warranty precaution clutch companies use so as to guarantee since if you do drive it 500 to 1000 km easy it is certain the clutch will bed in but doing it the quick way if you do overheat it too much you can prematurely wear it so for a street car I would recomend to wear it in proplerly as its no rush but track car gota take the shortcut.