boostn0199

Just weld it up or buy a 1.5 or 2 way. Personaly i drove weldy on the street for a year and dont understand what the fuss is of making driving hard. Its cheap and lasts for good unlike shims which will eventually wear down.

Yes 25 box will just bolt up may just need a new tailshaft made up.

Usually said to be aorund the 250kw mark but there have many cases of people running at the 300kw and have had it keep up even I had the exedy OEM replacement which held 300kw for a while, so most likely it will prob hold at 275kw.

Its not a neccessity but doesnt hurt to just chuck one in if you got the spare money for it.I chucked one in my r33 when I did them but I gained response on standard cam gear setting and didnt get any gains from it so its up to you.

So pump pump hold clutch pressed in open screw then close and keep repeating. Whai is the purpose of the nipple on that little black box?

Im probably going to replace the slave and master on my 33 and just trying to research the bleeding process as have seen so many topics with people having trouble and the topic in the DIY still left me abit confused. Is there a different way to bleed it if you dont change the master and slave and just bleed as appose to when you change both? From the DIY it seemed to suggest you can just bleed from the nipple of the slave which also leads me to the question there is a nipple on the slave it self and a nipple on this little box near it and also a nipple on the master it self. So anyone got a good guide to follow?

Im probably going to replace the slave and master on my 33 and just trying to research the bleeding process as have seen so many topics with people having trouble and the topic in the DIY still left me abit confused. Is there a different way to bleed it if you dont change the master and slave and just bleed as appose to when you change both? From the DIY it seemed to suggest you can just bleed from the nipple of the slave which also leads me to the question there is a nipple on the slave it self and a nipple on this little box near it and also a nipple on the master it self. So anyone got a good guide to follow?

I would still for piece of mind get the 040 and chuck it in now for piece of mind and be dOne with fuel punp issues.

Yes jdi knucles will do them for r33 and 32. Call on 0421345748

Go get a vrs gasket kit from just jap or kudosmotorsports comes with everything you need for head rebuild all genuine nissan parts and probably costs less then just buying a HG alone from nissan.

I see nothing wrong with the intake design itself as i run one with a 90 degree and 45 degree bend with no problem. Why didnt you just put a decent new pump rathet then mucking around with 2nd hanf parts that are just as old.

Get a pic it will help.

What you mean? Thats how it adjusts with that washer that sits in the keyway. Have you got a pic? It shouldnt be stuck if theres no washer because nothing is holding it.

What has happened is that little keyway on the washer has been damaged so its got jammed somewhere on the bolt which is making it stuck. Ypu need to vice grip the washer to hold it still and turn the bolt til it sits correctly in the keyway then it will come out or if you cant grip it with a vice just spot weld the washer to the subframe then you can just break the weld when you get the bolt off.

Its a metal gasket so yes its anupgrade to handle more boost it does not mean quality is better. Nissan gasket is high quality it just isnt metsl but as proven by many its up to the task of high poeer and boost also has advantage of being ALOT more Forgiving in the surface flatness.

*require

87 is fine also bear in mind the cosmetic gaskets a stupidly straight surface to guarantee sealing i would also advise a standard one for your case.

Not likely unless you did a trackday like that pumping it all day. Take it to workshop to set your timing if you cant yourself it will take them a couple of min.

He means you need to use a timing light to set the timing, no matter how careful you mark it chances are if ypu dont set it with a light after willbe slightly off.

bump

Yes nothing specific enough found

So ive recently installed a hhhdb clutch a few months ago and its been fine until today while drifting all of a sudden noticed my pedsl had more free play then before and eventuslly got to the point where from standing still stsrt could not put car into any gear. Checked the slave and it was only pushibg the fork half way so i adjusted the pedal to get rid of some of tge free play and also give it a bigger push stroke so that solved my problem and was fine for the rest of the day. But my question is was this a symptom of a failing slave, weak pedal box etc. ?

End of the if you insist on running it you need to tune car to run with it or else you will always have problems.

They can last million ks if its never been thrashed , perfect maintanace , kept standard etc etc. So the point is it comes down to the life its had and the current state which will determine its life.

Have you had a look at the CAS could also be slight sign of it playing up by causing a miss.