boostn0199

For the price of castor bushes iwould instead chuck in a set of adj castor rods which are about 140 on jjr and just do bushes on the lca while your at it.

In what car? How old is it? There about the 1100 mark brand new.

On my drift car i run just the burson std tie rod ends and no problems. If your having bumpsteer issues then you may want to lOok at them or else the extra money is not worth it as they wear out pretty much same time as normal ones. Good to hear about fixing the lca.

Hypergear rb25 highflow and a nistune ecu considering you already have everything else you listed.

Wait just checked your link are you talking about a tie rod end balljoint or the lower control arm ball joint? Either way you can get the LCA ball joint aswell from bursons for 30-40bux.

What the hell happened to that tie rod end lol but anyway you can just chuck in a new tie rod end for like 20 bux from bursons or something they do the job no worries.

Check timing and also make sure belt is not out by a tooth or 2 then look at the tune.

Well having the timing thrown off is 1 symptom of a faulty CAS but its not the only one but yeah if the timing is way off 15 and no one has touched it then pretty safe to say your having CAS issues another thing with the CAS is they play up when they warm up so that also explains why you have more problems when the cars warmed up but yeah get a timing light onto it but make sure you have the light on it when your having the lean pop problem because my CAS was on it and off it would sometimes work perfect then all of a sudden lean pop so the timing was getting thrown around so you got to make sure it when checking that it is lean popping but yeah would also be good if you could borrow someones working CAS to try would make things easier aswell.

Also you can pm elite racing he can rebuild your current one.

Nissan want 1300 i got from rhdjapan for 620 or something like that shipped also saw guy on ebay recently selling them 500 from qld

Theres been quite a few cas die ive gone through two i think there getting to that age now so thats why i opted for brand new. Check it out and hopefully its that and youll solve your problem.

When i said check the timing i mean physically check with a timing light the power fc is not the actual timing it always sits at 15 on idle regardless of what its actually set on its sort just a reference point. Other symptoms i had were basically the loss of 60 kw due to timing retarted but basically it was just the lean popping and surges kept getting worse over the months until i took it to my tuner to check out the light surges and then discovered lose of power and crazy timing change.

Now that I have a think about it, I had the exact same probably a few months ago I had lean popping on idle when warm and also had some surging on light throttle like you described and in mine it was a dying CAS. Check your idle timing because mine read at 2 degrees when CAS was dying. Bought a brand new CAS and problems all gone but yeah it gradually got worse over the few months so it was hard to diagnose.

But the other master come with it because i received by mistake s14 one and that came with it.

Well pretty much got my build up to date now and can stop having to think back to write out updates but yeah pretty much just been doing little things to get the car ready for another drift session next weekend which mainly just checked out the clutch issue and removed my pedal box to check it and wasnt cracked but welded it up so thats one less problem to have in the future so Im suspecting a dying master clyinder or slave which Im going to run next weekend without changing them and hopefully get through the day but already have the brand new parts to go in once I get back. Also did the usual trip down to wheeltech to pick up some tyres.

Just wondering if anyone knows why when you buy a new geniune master cylinder for a r33 gtst they no longer come with the dust boot on the cylinder? As the one in the car does have one. Do you need to remove it from the old one and put on the new one or do these new ones not need it for some new design change reason? Here is a pic of the new master cylinders

In regards to the ring gap clearance for the cp pistons, having a look at there guide here http://www.cp-carrillo.com/LinkClick.aspx?fileticket=LjC4jLmI4Ls%3d&tabid=74 Ive worked out for a 86.5mm bore that they should be .019" for top ring and for the second ring .023" and .015" for the oil rings that was based on the Nitrous/turbo supercharged application. Are people following these guidelines when doing it or are they using there own different gaps? Also from what Ive read so far the piston to bore clearance for cp pistons is 3.5thou but I havent found a document on CP's website where it talks about the it any thoughts?

Thanks for the info everyone will consider it all. Can anyone recomend any good machining shops in melb? And if anyone has any other advice or tips pleaae input.

*body

Done it with just removing throttle bad and i have big hands

I see, well whether or not the crank will need a grind or linish i wont know until i get it as im researching now at this stage. So firstly ill have to check the crank to see if in spec or not and whether it will need grinding then get a set a set of acl std bearings if crank is fine and give the machinist the clearances i want so he can do what machning is required. Ive read that just using a plsstigauge for checking clearances isnt enough and should use a mic aswell is this true?

So getting a tunnel bore along with a set of oversized bearing which the machinist will indiually set for a specfic number would be the best.

Im thinking about starting my first bottom end build on the side to have it ready for when the time comes. It is used for a drift car with 300 to 320 kw on e85. Im thinking of going 20 though cp pistons and going to aim for 2 thou main bearing clearance. Just have a few questions should i just go with a set of acl std race bearings and get the block align honed, crank polished and balanced. It is a 2 nd hand crank by the way. What is an accetable variance in clearances?

I would put some toe out in the front start with 1 or 2 mm.

So is this the full manual ? Not just the shitty engine one thats online for free?