boostn0199

Well i only had the kaki On my old setup so was 260 with a straight 3.5 exhust with just cannon and 250 with restrictor. Without restrictor on new setup both exhusts made 310.

Fuel lines is still a myth, many ppl runnong ethanol inc myself on std lines no problems.

Well without the restrictor the old timing that it had could be added back in was a difference of around 10 kw

Depends how bad its leaking. If its a big leak then yes it is a big deal since the diff will have no oil soon. In regards changing is a straoght forward job if you remove the diff centre allthough could still get it done with the centre in the car. Just drain oil, unbolt drive shaft , hit out half shaft , change seal then reassemble.

sold

sold

Well you need to tell us how much you want to spend, and whether clutch heavyness is a issue for you. Im using a exedy HHHDB for 300kw and its up to the task but is a bit heavy to drive on but for its price and the power it handles its hard to beat. You can also look at NPC clutches they are known to give good results or as you said the jim berry have a good rep for taking whatever power you need one for and still are fairly soft and driver friendly. In regards to the flywheel it is not a necessity to upgrade you can just machine you standard one but if if you want to go for a new lighter one then yeah thats another decision for you.

Thats a great result 280 kw with super response. E85 is taking these turbos to the next level with 300 kw possible on under 3500rpm response.

As said above what you listed will help grip or drift where corners are involvrd straightline traction almost goes oposite with softer suspension zettings working better. The adj arms are only used to correct or customise alighnment settings wben you change the geometry for example lowering it. So just get the tyres and you should find that solves your problem espcially at 220 kw

No need for anything on the tomeis just check block and head surface if within factory specs slap it on with correct torqing and youll have no problems. Tomei are a great gasket been using them myself.

Well get some half decent tyres exp. like kuhmo ku36 for a start and then see how it goes and get a wheel alignment to make sure settings are fine.

Youll be around the 190 to 200 kw mark.

Jasma is just like jap epa so its epa aproved in jap.

Just weld the v band it will cost you like 20 bux abd no need for a flange to be added as the turbo already unbolts from its rear flange, id show my pic of it but cant find it.

What you mean upgrade exhyast? All you need to upgrade the dump pipe if its still a stock one as the cat back has nothing to do with welding the dump where the flange is.

How many wires are there and what colours are they and state what you hooked up each wire to.

I had tgat sort of v band design on my hypergear turbo no matter what i did it eventually leaked so what i did was weld it up where tge v band is and you can just unbolt the rear turbo flange if you need to remove turbo or dump its luke a normal dump pipe now had it for few years no problem.

I guess depends what you consider as cheap to me 1000 for a ecu is cheap but Yeah up to you mate fota decide whats best for your situation.

Personslly unless your goin rb25 i wouldnt use a 20 Over a rb30.

+1 for power fc on r33 gtst easily tuned no problems and not that expensive while you can also monitor whats happening with the controller. Just sell the it on ebay as stao said will go quick then get the power fc and take it to trent and you wont regret it.

Get just jap return flow, cheap and pretty good even with bigger power levels and install is pretty straight forward too im sure you could do it yourself and save some labour costs if your willing.

If you have a rb30 your cheapest option would be to find a stock vl turbo setup which you can prob pick up for under 1000 with everything you need. Have a look on calaisturbo. Com theres guys always selling them.

If you want someone to do it for you and also the alignment I definitely recommend traction tyres, I went to them after being recommended from the guys here and I am very happy with there work they did on my alignment on all my arms.

You said that when you took the CAS out and spun it you got nothing and since replacing the CAS didnt change that I would be looking at the electrical connections to the CAS since it seems its the CAS is not working and if the CAS is good as you have a good one I would say something dodgy in the wiring thats turning it on and off.

Thanks Sounds good. Have you offset your rack to overcome the problem of it going over centre? Ill have a chat to you at the next practice day at winton if i see you.