boostn0199

Yeah best to replace it and go straight from slave to master bypassing that stupid dampening valve unit .

Yeah as above always done it like that no problem. The torque from memory i think is 50nm but check manual to make sure.

Just get the arms they will give you more adjustment the bushes dont offer much, its not like you get a wheel alignment every week so who cares if its takes a bit more effort to adjust them.

Just make sure when you hit up the shock to burn out the bush dont let it hit up too much along the shock have a bucket of water handy to slam it in once you burned it out.

switch the hoses around on the washer bottles eg. put the front washer hose onto the rear washer motor and see if it works. If it does you can always just keep it like since the rear washer is pretty pointless.

You either make sure the head and bottom end are at TDC exactly and and put it on or if you want to be safe move the crank a few degrees back from TDC so there is no chance of any valves touching incase the cams arent exact postion then once head on get the cams on tdc and then do the crank.

They look pretty good and guess at that price youd be expecting them to be decent. Ive personally used whiteline in the rear knuckles and have no problem.

Shouldnt have any problems with it if installed correctly, you just use the pink lube they give with the clutch put some on the shaft a good amount but not over doing it and must make sure everything is clean clean clean fly clutch check it over and try to keep hands clean when doing it to minimize chances of contamination. Id be guessing its the workshops sloppy work . Im also confused by the term headache clutch if I ever heard that it would instantly make me question there knowledge. Chasers is in the west and people seem to be happy with there work maybe try them.

Shouldnt have valve damage if timing was right and that was your only problem.

Yeah multistud 4 or 5 x 114.3

Got my set of sparco python rims. Condtion is average with a few gutter rashes on all of them. There abit dirty could use a good clean and look not bad. I have two centrecaps only for them, fronts are 17x8 +32 and rears 17x9 +38. Multistud, overall are a good light rim espcially for track use. Im after $300 for the set with no tyres, pick up only Melb SE suburbs call or sms on 0422445339 or pm me.

Its in the fuse box inside the car as for which one going to have to get the test light out.

That guide is correct way to do it, ive done a few sets exact like that with no problems. If you followed it then lifters shouldnt be the problem but hopefully its not the timing or else going to have some mashed valves.

Nah I just did the two off the reservoir and added a cooler.

If the N1 has been noticably worse from 2005 as people are saying why hasnt nissan done anything for 7 years surely they should be getting claims on them?

300 no tires fronts 17x8 +32 rears 17x9 +38

You either cut the restrictor out have loud exhuast, or change the mufflers and get some decent ones that flow well and wont be loud.

Now thats a good response definately Continuing with motul.

Rims are for sale if anyone interested

Or in my case its done for maximum clearance so can run more lock lol.

Heres the pic 215/40/17 on a 17x9

Easiest way is either tee the hose between the rockers and run that to the inlet on the catch can and then run the other inlet on the catch either into your intake pipe or vent it.

The reason your pouring out at track is your overheating the fluid. Chuck on a cooler to help go wreckers grab a small tranny cooler and hook it up.

YeAh then the gauge itself will be useless without it just buy a option gauge there good quality and only like 40 bux

Well you need to use the specific sensor for that gauge you cant mix and match gauge and sensors.