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pipster11

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Everything posted by pipster11

  1. running import/gts front struts so probably no go on that one too can't be 4 pots either (any future posters) because they won't clear under my watanabes
  2. no worries, got a few leads on some cheap brakes
  3. how old?
  4. in the vid there is a feed to the wastegate but there is another vac line t'd into it which runs to the stock vac point for the stock boost solenoid (pre turbo in the metal bends that come from the rocker covers)
  5. cool cool, might have to get mine highflowed soon then rough price for that? including lines? and whats closed loop injections?
  6. no leaks for me well, not in the stagea at least just as well the r31 stays in qld
  7. so do you have a setup that you don't need anymore?
  8. so what would be the cheapest setup to max out the stock setup? (run injectors and afm to a safe max) op6 highflow?
  9. yeah it does some crazy stuff and should probably be left alone i've head ppl also say that you should take a boost source after the cooler and even from the manifold, i guess to counter the boost drop across the piping and cooler core
  10. its like 60% lead, which is ductile so its pretty unlikely to crack you could also steal the restrictor from the stock boost feed line (has yellow bands on the end)
  11. i'd do the extension lead test
  12. was thinking about it maybe i will come monday
  13. what diameter are the 25g rotors Hugh? Might be a bit of an upgrade for my 31
  14. Hey Guys After fixing the leak at the bottom of the front windscreen i'm getting no more water under the front passenger carpet However, its still smelly a couple of days after it rains Are there any other known water leaks? Drivers-side wiring look grommet? Post up where you know water leaks from Cheers, Tom
  15. ewwww well someone f'ed up on my car steering felt very loose on my way home a few days after my alignment jacked it up and i was greeted by no split pins in both sides and the tie rod end castle nuts were very loose
  16. i got my tape from my local chandlery They didn't know what self amalgamating tape was, theirs is called RUBBAWELD probably cheaper from an electrical wholesaler (mine was $12.95) put it on, (bought 2 rolls but only used 1), seems pretty good i don't think my coils were dead yet but they'll last a little longer now
  17. in the tridon book it says 82 but i got a nissan r33 one with my timing belt on it and it said 76.5 i think both run at about the same temp tho, so maybe they rate it differently (opening vs fully open?)
  18. you've kinda got a stock setup with the solenoid bypassed but if there is no restictor running to the vac side then it will bleed off too much air (dropping the pressure that the wastegate sees) get a jet lighter and some solder and solder up the vac side of that T, the drill it out with a small drill (maybe 1.5mm) if the boost you get is too low, go to a bigger drill size NO NEED FOR ADJUSTABLE WASTEGATES
  19. my mate got a pretty good deal r33 s1 forged motor + hks 2530 (i think) and all the supporting fruit ~ 280-300 rwkw (i forget now) + suspension stuff sorted too $7k only downside is it had peeling clear coat hunt around and make the decision on whats available to you, if there aren't any decent ones about then you might have to build your own
  20. pretty keen to get rid of them? we're on the boat on the 8th how much would be after for them? i'd have to ask the minister of finance
  21. yellow stageas are wicked, but i might be slightly biased good luck with the sale!
  22. s1 or s2? i tried to put my old s2 fronts on but the mounting holes are hardened so can't be drilled same as above, your 34 ones won't bolt on because they use 14mm bolts and i already tried to drill them out but they are hard as!!!
  23. i'd try re-soldering your current afm before you try that one maybe unplug your o2 sensor for a tank and see if you get better consumption and deffinately get onto that cool running (check thermostat too? you can run an r33 one but its 82dec not 87 like r34's run)
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