pipster11

get slightly bigger tyres www.willtheyfit.com

i just used that pic to show what big wheels look like on a c34 with offset, 17's look good plus tyres are cheap (235/45/r17's are about $120+ and will fit on up to a 9" rim well) i'm thinking about getting some lenso d1r's, probably the 17x9 or 18x9 if my carbon big goes missing, i know which stagea to check!

thats the 20's that were on my car before i bought it (didn't want the 20's and the seller wanted more for them, win win for me) i think 17's or 18's look the best, offset is the thing you have to watch out for tho

got floor mats that fit in the stagea now good bye r31 mats, hello r33 mats! if only they said stagea instead of skyline

nismokid 2 or 7 for me

its it auto? commodores blow the auto trans warmer into the radiator quite frequently and it looks like you have a blown hg but its actually trans fluid = negative TK test if you can, run an external cooler for a few days and see what happens also, get them to drop some oil down the bores and re-do the comp test and they should do a leakdown test too, that will tell you more info too

put my remsa pads in today and gave them a quick bed in (probably need more tho) i still have a squeal (thought it was the old shims and pads up front) but it could be the rears can't complain about the pads, great bite and grip, haven't heated them up much yet tho but i think they will be better than the old pads

got my remsa (gsl rallysport's qfm hpx replacements) pads for the front good bite and stop really well, i still have a squeal somewhere tho very good for $89/set

mine got blocked after i flushed the cooling system and they aren't easy to clean like a normal radiator, i should have just got a new top tank for my old rad

best bet would be to pull a flange out of the diff, count the splines and if they are the same, chuck the s14 flanges in the stagea diff im pretty sure all the r200's are the same inside so i doubt they'd have a different spline count

easy with gts or import struts

dead o2 sensor would only increase your fuel consumption maybe from 15 to 20l/100kms max at that fuel consumption there has to be some underlying problem what temp does the consult software read when the car has been on a while, it should be about 87°c for a neo (or 82 if running an r33 thermostat) i'd say the main culprit tho would be a loose hose clamp or split joiner on the intake plumbing somewhere get some start your bastard and spray that on the intake joints as the motor is running, if the idle changes, you have a leak

i find 5 pumps doesn't really work so i just keep pumping till the light flashes just cut sick on the brake pedal

Neither does my rs4s, unplugged with no pumps is the bleed mode for the atessa I was also backing you up chuckie

straight from Mr Nissan himself

tired nissan? ask for a 300zx afm? or justjap as stated

its all under vacuum so you just won't be able to pressurise the system pre-turbo to do boost leak tests

pretty common occurrence you can unplug the afm if that happens, it will limit revs to about 2500 but it drives a bit better than with it plugged in (reverts to a default map) one time my r32 spat the whole lower half of the hot-side pipe (from under the airbox to the fmic) into the bushes i couldn't find it so i had to limp it home

yeah i think jap rotors > australian rotors we did a pair of 31 rear rotors at my mates workshop over summer and they went well (any the calliper had locked on so the surface was blue = hard) and it took the surface off well, it just takes a long time to set them up and make sure they are true plus most lathes won't reach and do both sides without flipping the rotor around so if you have to pay someone to run them on a regular lathe = exxy because its time consuming, but if you free lathing (like i do at uni ) then its kinda worth it

i could be interested pending prices my mate bought a 33 that was originally a gts (non turbo but converted in japland with turbo everything except rear way bar) all the mounting points were there under the car and on the lower suspension arms so we bolted a whiteline bar in there

got my remsa pads on my desk (apparently between the qfm hpx and ar1m but still low rotor wear and dust) i really want to put them in tmrw but i also want to machine the front rotors really wishing i was either in qld (my mate has lathes and stuff) or had a big lathe in my garage

these pads sit between the hpx and ar1m aparently, gsl rallysport are phasing out the hpx's apparently because these are supposed to be better for only $10 more ($89/set) so tempted to put them in tmrw, but i don't want to bed them in twice and it could be a while before i have a spare car again (corolla is up in the air with about half way through a clutch change atm)

i bought a cheap one of fleabay its crap

the 595ss's can be had in that size for about $125 + fitting (from option1garage)

my remsa pads just arrived from gslrallysport i bought fronts for the stagea (r34 4 pots) and fronts for the corolla (probably overkill really) keen to see how they are compared to the current pads, just wondering if i should machine the rotors first