pipster11

i really need a stock radiator (r33 or r34 will do) or even a stock manual stagea one willing to pay real monies for it too

Hey guys I need a stock manual radiator because my super awesome cooling pro one is blocked and leaking i'll need it posted to 7248 tasmanial but depot to depot shipping is really cheap and i'm willing to pay real money Thanks, Tom

offset is a bit low

not really, a stock rb26 isn't that awesome itbs and 2 turbos are about the only difference to to rs4s i've got r34 gtt brakes so they aren't much smaller than the brembos and vct is win also

buy one of the $16 bottes of gw from supercheap drain the old stuff put in the cheap stuff run it again put the dirty stuff away drain the cheap stuff put the good stuff in and keep the cheap stuff for another clean

anyone know where i can pick up one of these? mine fell to bits when i took the pcv out to check it i'm guessing nissan definitely will but i don't think launceston nissan will have much experience with imports

something would have to change as you get some pretty big angles when stretching tyres (big angles for engineering are anything over 5°) but you are correct, the cylinder that makes the tyre cannot get that much smaller (but the rubber is elastic so it can contract a little bit) so the sidewalls must either get dragged inwards on the rim or stretch a little

i'd say that the m35's are better designed as a wagon but no manual conversion (at this stage) made it not an option for me plus i always wanted a manual c34 c34 - easy to mod, lots of parts, manual available m35 - more difficult to mod, actual wagon suspension setup (no big strut towers in the back), lots of compartments, 5 speed auto (i think), good strong motor, ugly as all hell

0422 988 328 what offset too? and do they clear 4pot brakes?

manual stageas are where its at! rwd mode + clutch pedal = fun times

so is one of these a viable upgrade instead of highflowing the stock turbo? which one would i be looking at to safely see the limits of the stock injectors and afm on an rb25 neo? how "bolt on" are they (need a new dump pipe probably?)

bursons, repco, pabs or probably go to merv grey merv is pretty cheap and if he has to order them in its only a few dollars more (won't sting you much for freight)

changing the angle of the sidewall would change the height from the bead to the tread immagine house, the wall height is 2m, the length of the roof could be 2 meters too but the height of the wall is 2m because its vertical but because the roof is on an angle the heigh of the roof may only be 1m i think what would happen in real life would be that the circumference of the tyre would be under a little bit of compression and the sidewall would be put in tension (otherwise the tyre would wrinkle like you said, this is also neglecting the internal pressure of the air and the load from the car's weight)

www.willtheyfit.com pull off your current wheels and go searching for the offset and width of them then measure how much more "poke" you want then work it out from that website guessing you'd have the auto rear cradle so you will want the 18x9.5 +22

r31 also has the same afm as a vl so i guess that would work too

good luck finding a cheap import down here in good condition tassie has some nice cars, but the nice ones are never cheap

if there is one i'm not ever sure if i want to keep my car

too much chat about ecu's any news on highflow developments? what would you suggest so that i could run the max that stock afm and injectors could handle on an rb25neo?

i'm out of funds maybe next time

i'd beg to differ pythagorus yo! also, www.willtheyfit.com is one of the best tire size calculator i've found

pics?

sounds sexy what specs?

how wide are the 18" wheels?

correct me if im wrong guys but the vq25det runs a nissan/renault secret squirrel super-dooper ecu that makes a 350z ecu look like a calculator also, heaps of things are run down a CAN line (like a lan cable for cars) so you can't easily chop wires and intercept things

will be the sealant around the tail lights you can pull them out, wipe the sealant off with a rag and some metho and put some adhesive foam tape round them and put them back in