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pipster11

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Everything posted by pipster11

  1. thanks, i dropped him a pm i was really hoping to find one locally cos i don't think its going to be that cheap to post it across
  2. a guy down here in tas has isc coilovers i think and he hates them, way too hard for anything street driven bc's seem to be the way to go
  3. dont worry, i can't run staggered fitments dam awd
  4. got some more info on the wheels? or some pics? whats wrong with the 2? can you maybe mms me some pics, 0422 988 328
  5. cool beans, that last ebay listing is pretty cheap i'll get the verniers out later also, r32 and z32 rotors and callipers are the same but the z32 ones are alloy instead of cast iron and a fair bit lighter so probably worth getting some z32 ones
  6. still wanting a stock radiator
  7. anyone know how much for some r34 rotors? 310mmx30? tossing up weather to machine mine or get new ones
  8. you could probably get away with buying a written off coupe and transfer all the fruit (good bits) across then any parts not required could be sold for $$$ and you recoup some of your costs a mate bought an r33 for $7k with a forged motor, hks 2530 (i think) and all the supporting things and it was road worthy, if you can find someone selling a whole package its going to be waaaaay cheaper than buying it all yourself
  9. with which callipers?
  10. i might have to get one http://shop.ebay.com.au/i.html?_trkparms=65%253A12%257C66%253A2%257C39%253A1%257C72%253A4461&rt=nc&_nkw=walbro+342&_dmpt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&_sticky=1&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_sop=15&_sc=1 they are so cheap!
  11. just go to a nuts and bolts shop, they will probably be able to get you one with the flared bit like i'm assuming the stock one is and they should get the pitch correct the first time
  12. use silicon i used gasket goo (didn't have anything else and i thought it would work) but it still leaks a little you can tell because if you pull the blower motor off (3 bolts on the round thing under the glovebox) there will probably be water in there
  13. can't remember who i have asked, do you have the radiator?
  14. put an impact wrench on it, then a breaker bar on that, then some pipe on that then rest the pipe on the chasis rail, crank the motor and it should crack it! or you can use an old alternator belt and put a twist in it and do it up but the 1st method works, i did it about a week ago and it worked easily (i tried the alternator belt thing but it didn't work)
  15. you need to have the heater set to full hot when you fill the system or you will have air trapped in there also, you need to bleed the air out from the head with the 1 or 2 10mm bleed bolts near the top of the intake manifold
  16. 10w40 is fine for most r34 gtt's but if yours has low kms you'd probably be right running a 10w30 i use the gulf western syn-x 3000 and have done for a while now, its good, its cheap but it just doesn't last as long as the sougi (motul 300v equivalent) did but for $33/bottle you can't complain its a 10w40 btw and i run it in a s2 stagea (rb25 neo with 108,000kms)
  17. its the better option because you get 324mm rotors if you get the brembos but brembos always carry a premium price
  18. i think so, check the thread in the diy section you will definitely need new plugs but i think the length is correct (may need small spacers on the fuel rail)
  19. what the go with that cruise tmrw? i've got to run some ppl to the airport at 1 so i might not be able to make it
  20. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Siemens-Deka-60lb-EV6-High-Impedance-Fuel-Injector-6-/390213457834?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5ada88d7aa#ht_3495wt_1141 those should do but some of these would be good: http://www.airpowersystems.com/falcon/injectors.htm they have a really good spray pattern
  21. this is correct non brembo r32 gtr is 296x32mm, r33 gts-25t is 296x30 r34 gtt is 310mmx30 and r34 gtr is 324mm (i forget what thickness) everything r32 and r33 has 12mm bolts up front, r34 gtt and gtr brakes have 14mm bolts up front on a side note, the 2 pot rears are the same from r32 to r34
  22. i have a dyno sheet for 134awkw and it shows on 7psi i think that was just with a pod and a catback exhaust as perviously said, the r33 turbo will be holding you back, maybe try and find a blown r34 one for cheap and get it highflowed by hypergear (about $8-900) also, a nistune will get you a decent improvement in both power, torque and economy (won't go so crazy rich on boost)
  23. no, different resolution unless you wire it up and drive with it unplugged and can drive it under 2000 rpm (but this is not a good thing to try unless you blow a cooler pipe and have no tools to put it back on with)
  24. got the radiator?
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