The Bogan

https://www.qld.gov.au/transport/licensing/driver-licensing/applying/provisional/restrictions#high Government says no unless approved, good luck with that. The car sale websites base the p plate status on non modified vehicles, the buyer has duty of care to ensure vehicle complies. Same for NSW.

SOLD

$100 for 1 rim and tyre$175 for 2 rims and 2 tyres$225 for 3 rims and 3 tyresCash and pickup onlyBARGAIN you buy now

$225 You buy now

My little car gets a bath weekly, it does sound a bit expensive. I just use Meguiar's Ultimate Wash n Wax on my wheels, seems good at keeping the dust from sticking to bad and the finish is good. Sadly the kids are to old now for me to con them into cleaning the wheels. Small child labor hands are good for cleaning rims.

How does it clean up, as in, just a hose gets most of it off, or, you still need a gernie and cloth to get in all the nicks and crannies? My pads make dust like it's going out of fashion, if it saves time cleaning and lasts for a while it may be useful. Is it like a wax or something?

The difference between the OEM shocks and the MCA ones are chalk and cheese, I'm totally happy with the cars handling now. As for what's next, nothing really, unless I find $20k under the lounge cushions that is.

$250 Replace your worn old OEM rubbish for these super duper OEM performance package items Chicks will want you Men will want to be you All for the low price of $250 BARGAIN Disclaimer: Chicks and mens views may vary

$125 for 1 rim and tyre$225 for 2 rims and 2 tyres$300 for 3 rims and 3 tyresCash and pickup only BARGAIN

Polypropylene https://www.plasticweldingtools.com.au/how-to-weld-plastics/ How good is googles, I wish this was around when I was a kid, you can find everything if you know what your looking for.

You may be able to use some of the original bumper material. I'm sure you find the material used in the bumper with some looking around on the Interwebs, I would hazard to guess it's a pretty commonly used plastic.

Alignment done, $55 at JAX Liverpool. I ended up asking for -2° at the front and trying for 0 toe everywhere. Turns out there was enough adjustability in the rear toe wise after the drop, so no issues there. The rear was a surprise, with the non-adjustable camber, with the OEM shocks, my rear camber was -1.2° L and -1.75° R, now with the new coils and drop it ended up -2.2 L & R, winning. I'm going to see how that feels and try and see how the tyre sits with it, just need to wait for some good weather and then hit some twisties. In the end I may not need rear LCA after all, I was initially wanting them to even out the camber and was thinking around -1.5° for the rear, maybe, the proof will be in the pudding. Although, with my limited driving "skills" and the car really only seeing street duties, I'm not sure I would notice a change of 0.5° either way.

I did alot of plastic welding in my youth building plastic ducting for fume cupboards. It's perfect for bumpers. As long as you prep the material and have typical material for the filler rod it is easy as.

2017 PP Sachs suspension Also comes with OEM swaybar links and top camber bolts for the front. 6k km Excellent condition $300 Cash and pickup only Holsworthy 2173 PM me

And there in. Front needs to go down 5mm and the bum up 10mm to get the suggested 350 all round. Even with my rough attempt at an even alignment at the front the car is already feeling much better, compliance is as good as OEM, I'll get the heights sorted tomorrow maybe, I'll then get an alignment and see what's what.

So the MCA traction mod is in. Took the car for a spin around the local circuit, arse seems to stay more planted, you can hear the tyres struggling for purchase on tight corners when I'm up it, but the car is less prone to snap oversteer, when I thow it in hard on the gas, LOL, "throw it hard"... to get the arse out a bit, it's much more smoother it seems. Anyways, it's nothing magical, but it is better than what it was. Hearing the tyres wheel spin a bit bitting for traction is much better than the quite "86's on ice", feeling it was previously. Only took 1 whiskey to do it to. Coils in and alignment next.

My experience with 4 point harnesses are they are rubbish, I would prefer the OEM 3 point. Reason: to have it tight enough I found the lap section would pull up to my guts, sure it held me in position, but was uncomfortable, and in the event of a front end prang, I think there's a good chance that you would end up in the foot well, aka "submarine". A 3 point negates this by letting part of your upper body to shift forward, 5/6 point uses your crutch area, I vote for the 6 point in this regard. IMO you either go OEM or 6 point. Opinions may vary

Yeah, sounds similar to my NB with the same mods. The 86 is way less intrusive, but, it still has the stock headers which has a cat, the front pipe also has a cat, albeit a high flow one. I've heard a 86 with an aftermarket header and no cats, it was obnoxiously loud, and the drone inside the cabin was horrendous.

Just like Christmas morning, only I'm not drunk. Bonus unexpected items were new swaybar links to suit the front shocks and the 20mm drop they are set to, all 86 kits get them. Going off their fact sheet thingie, and my current ride height, 370mm front and rear, it should drop the car 20mm all round, I'm hoping it doesn't cause any clearance issues with the local speed humps, I can always lift it up a bit if needed. Just need to find some time to get it all fitted. I'll need to look at rear camber after that, the cheap option is adjustable bushes, but they only give +/- 0.75°, the other option is LCA, lots of adjustment and some come with adjustable toe arms, I'm not sure if I'll need them though, I'm hoping I can zero the toe with the OEM limited adjustability, I'll just wait and see where the camber and toe sit after the install. At this stage I'm looking to get -1.75° front and -1.0° rear, with 0 toe everywhere, castor is not adjustable, I have no idea if this will actually work well though, proof will be how the thing feels and tyre wear, f**k, who am I kidding, I'm going with blind luck at this stage. I'll then test and adjust with my limited skill and poor driving technique. Rock and roll ?

If you want a fast car car the 86 is definitely the wrong car. The 86 can be made faster, to a point, but it'll cost ya. I put the 86 in the same league as the MX5, fun little beastie with limitations and compromises, I got the 86 over the MX5 because it has more space for stuff. I've gone for weekend trips and there is enough room in the boot and "back seat" for my bag, and the girls 4 bags (because female), there's no way in hell I could have fit all the stuff in a MX5. Plus I love the look of the 86, and am dumb enough to drop near on the purchase price in mods to have it the way I like. Being dumb has its certain benifits ?

Still got all 3, I'm open to offers

From my experience the "head drain" acted more like a vent for the crankcase, but that was long ago and I am trying to forget about RB's and oil control. I still have nightmares about everything being covered in oil.

The sound tube only really added sound higher in the rev range, 4k up, but it sounded weird when everything was OEM, sort of like a small air leak....at your feet, sort of.....but once I did the exhaust, header back, the exhaust was all you could hear. Now with the sound tube gone, and the new inlet installed with all the resonators removed, I can hear the induction coming from where it's meant to come from, the engine, not my feet. The induction isn't overly loud though, it's still got the OEM airbox which knocks out some sound, but, it's a natural sound if you get what I mean. Sounds really good IMO, especially from around 5k up to 7k, all that NA goodness screaming of its tits. And you really need to keep it screaming off its tits though, under 5k rpm the engine doesn't have alot going for it. Don't get me wrong, it's "nippy" down low, but it's not until 5k rpm that the engine wakes right up. The exhaust and intake seemed to help, but the only thing that would help more under 5k rpm would be some boost. A good tune might help a little, but a tune on its own, without some air being jammed in, wouldn't be good bang for your buck. Hell, from some really rough calculations, for me to get something over 200 killerwasps, and still be reliable to beat on, it would cost upward of $20k to do it right. A nice responsive setup running around 200kw would be real sweet though. Unfortunately I didn't find $20k under the lounge when I last looked, if, and when I do.... you can bet that there will be some boost getting pumped in. But I'm keeping it stock, so that's not likely to happen.....?

I sort of felt the same, but my OCD was relieved by they fact that the OEM wheel nuts I'm using are chrome, thus, in my easily appeased mind, everything is OK and right in the world.

$140 center caps Super tight fit and aluminum, still $140, dang