The Bogan

I'll just get the tune at this point. From the experience I got with the tuned car with only a header and exhaust is it is still worth the outlay. Even without a tune, the car as it stands now seems much better, it seems to rev much more freely in the midrange, proof of if I'm imagining it or not will be pre dyno results. Stock, the torque drops its show bags badly, from 210nm down to 185nm (25nm or about 9%) from around 3-4.5 rpm, it might not seem much, but as the car has F all to start with it is noticeable daily driving. Cold start is now quite loud though, it does settles down once the cold start has done its thing, or if I blip the throttle. I'm sure the neighbors are aware of my new and improved exhaust modifications now. The tune will remove the cold start issue now that that particular function is redundant, and hopefully, the tune flattens the curve out. The cat in the midpipe seems to be doing its thing well, I'll get them to check my emissions when it's tuned to ensure compliance.....

OEM gearbox is rated to 250nm. No wonder all the base supercharger and turbo kits are designed around 160-170 kw-200nm Small supercharger (sprintex) with its smoother, and lower torque delivery (cool blower noise, which is mucho importanto)? Small turbo to hit my limited power goal and still be efficient (cool pigeons and sneezing noises, again with the mucho importanto)? Still, lots of money to make a maximum addition of 50 torques and around 160-170 kwatw The weakness of the drivetrain has now become the sticking point, and thus, the limiting factor IRT end power goals My initial budget calcs were well flawed, I would need to factor in built box and some axles, maybe some other sh i t.....arrrrgggggg Power is no fun when the car breaks all the time, I still have a eye twitch from the R33 I had Shit f**k

Engineering IRT emissions compliance would be a major hurdle I would assume with a 2J, plus adding a rebuilt motor and fab and box and other stuff?????? The latest LS would be sweet, I looked into it but the total price https://www.whichcar.com.au/features/6-litre-ls-swapped-toyota-86-street-car is rather large. Hence, just build the FA20 to the point where it doesn't eat the drivetrain. I've rode in a 86 with 200kwatw, it was fun, 250 or 300, that would be much...funner.....

And a built engine, and everything else for it to be reliable'ish Cost, which is around 20k minimum, is significant I could turbo it, but limit it, but where would the fun be in that. If I do end up forcing air down its guts it gonna be done right, "apparently" the drivetrain is questionable over 300 torques, over that and the gear box is a consumable item, so that would be my limiting factor. I'm still learning what breaks these things, alot more research is needed before dropping a ton of cash on it, only to have it break down the track isn't something I'm looking for. I do think about it, alot, LOL Unless you give me 30k, I'll do it then, and let you do a big skid in it..........

So, I was given a free day off at work. Changed the diff and box oil, finally. While it was on stands I did the engine oil, after filling I realised I forgot to swap my sump plug with my Fumoto drain valve, doih, next time eh. I also killed all the kittens and butterflies. So far so good. Just need to get it tuned now. ?????

So, I've been looking at stuff to do prior to getting the thing tuned, I'll be going to Pulse, ECUTEK, rev match, FFS, launch control, LOL, that's gonna cost around $1400ish. So, as it is staying NA for rhe foreseeable future I've been looking at headers and overpipe. Talking to a guy at work that has a 86 and has done alot of mucking around IRT headers and overpipes, he initially just got a tune and found some good midrange and a little up top, he then knocked out the cat in the header (they have one in the header and one in the front pipe) and got it retuned for much better midrange and slightly more gains everywhere else. He then got a aftermarket header and overpipe, cost him around $1500 after coating, the things made a whopping bugger all difference to power. It did see gains, but only a few hp up top, and a couple, I think he said 3 more torques in the midrange. So, spend $1500 on a header and overpipe for minimal gains (which may, or may not get replaced with a turbo manifold down the track), plus, the cost of the tune, OR............ I have a couple of days off this week, I have a minicat O2 spacer, a drill, a long 1/2" drill bit, a hammer, a chisel, a respirator, a fridge full of JD cans and a first aid kit full of bandages. Cry havoc, unleash the dogs of war.

It's toe that chews tyres more so than camber I've found. How much camber/toe you need for your application is relative to how sticky your tyres are, suspension, driving conditions, the cars usage and such, tyre pressures are critical as well My old R33 boat, GTST, and my MX5 liked -°2.5 front and - °2.0 rear, 0 toe everywhere. My tyres wore nice and even'ish. RWD vs AWD settings may be different. My STI had similar camber settings to the boat, but had a little toe out at the front, 1mm total IIRC, that little bit of toe wore my inner fronts much more, that much more that I needed to flip my tyres on the front rims, left to right, front to rear, to get some longevity out of them. Ended up getting 0 toe everywhere and the tyres wore much better. My 86 is currently --°2.0 front and -°2.5 rear (I still need to get rear adjustable LCA) and 0 toe everywhere, I would like to drop the rear to -°1.5 once I get the LCA and test and adjust from there, setting the right tyre presure is hurting my brain, so far, 32 psi front and 30 psi rear seems to be working, I think...... The -°2.0 on the front seem to be using the tyre well for driving (read:thrashing) around the street and trips through the Nasho. Disclaimer: Dont listen to me, I'm rather drunk ATM.

Sold Cheers

I would look at the cars handling characteristics and go from there, understeer/oversteer. There's alot more to it than just putting bigger bars on. I wrecked my old 33 by going to big with the bars and to stiff with the springs. I sacrificed traction front and rear in the end. From my experience, which was from doing it wrong, what you really need to do is find the spring rate for the cars use, whether it's track, street or a mix of things, get your dampers to suit. Then after an alignment and tyre playing with tyre pressure see how the car handles, you may be happy, you may not, maybe you need to only replace 1 bar, maybe bigger, maybe smaller. I am by no means an expert, as stated, I f**ked my 33 handling by missmatching parts due to ignorance. SAU NSW had a tech night at Heasams (spelling?) not long ago, I went to one years ago at a different joint, from that night I learnt that I was doing it wrong (after spending thousands to make my car handle "worse"), they talked alot about springs/damper/bars/alignment/tyre pressure and how you need to look at it as a whole and not the individual part. Rock and roll

https://www.qld.gov.au/transport/licensing/driver-licensing/applying/provisional/restrictions#high Government says no unless approved, good luck with that. The car sale websites base the p plate status on non modified vehicles, the buyer has duty of care to ensure vehicle complies. Same for NSW.

SOLD

$100 for 1 rim and tyre$175 for 2 rims and 2 tyres$225 for 3 rims and 3 tyresCash and pickup onlyBARGAIN you buy now

$225 You buy now

My little car gets a bath weekly, it does sound a bit expensive. I just use Meguiar's Ultimate Wash n Wax on my wheels, seems good at keeping the dust from sticking to bad and the finish is good. Sadly the kids are to old now for me to con them into cleaning the wheels. Small child labor hands are good for cleaning rims.

How does it clean up, as in, just a hose gets most of it off, or, you still need a gernie and cloth to get in all the nicks and crannies? My pads make dust like it's going out of fashion, if it saves time cleaning and lasts for a while it may be useful. Is it like a wax or something?

The difference between the OEM shocks and the MCA ones are chalk and cheese, I'm totally happy with the cars handling now. As for what's next, nothing really, unless I find $20k under the lounge cushions that is.

$250 Replace your worn old OEM rubbish for these super duper OEM performance package items Chicks will want you Men will want to be you All for the low price of $250 BARGAIN Disclaimer: Chicks and mens views may vary

$125 for 1 rim and tyre$225 for 2 rims and 2 tyres$300 for 3 rims and 3 tyresCash and pickup only BARGAIN

Polypropylene https://www.plasticweldingtools.com.au/how-to-weld-plastics/ How good is googles, I wish this was around when I was a kid, you can find everything if you know what your looking for.

You may be able to use some of the original bumper material. I'm sure you find the material used in the bumper with some looking around on the Interwebs, I would hazard to guess it's a pretty commonly used plastic.

Alignment done, $55 at JAX Liverpool. I ended up asking for -2° at the front and trying for 0 toe everywhere. Turns out there was enough adjustability in the rear toe wise after the drop, so no issues there. The rear was a surprise, with the non-adjustable camber, with the OEM shocks, my rear camber was -1.2° L and -1.75° R, now with the new coils and drop it ended up -2.2 L & R, winning. I'm going to see how that feels and try and see how the tyre sits with it, just need to wait for some good weather and then hit some twisties. In the end I may not need rear LCA after all, I was initially wanting them to even out the camber and was thinking around -1.5° for the rear, maybe, the proof will be in the pudding. Although, with my limited driving "skills" and the car really only seeing street duties, I'm not sure I would notice a change of 0.5° either way.

I did alot of plastic welding in my youth building plastic ducting for fume cupboards. It's perfect for bumpers. As long as you prep the material and have typical material for the filler rod it is easy as.

2017 PP Sachs suspension Also comes with OEM swaybar links and top camber bolts for the front. 6k km Excellent condition $300 Cash and pickup only Holsworthy 2173 PM me

And there in. Front needs to go down 5mm and the bum up 10mm to get the suggested 350 all round. Even with my rough attempt at an even alignment at the front the car is already feeling much better, compliance is as good as OEM, I'll get the heights sorted tomorrow maybe, I'll then get an alignment and see what's what.

So the MCA traction mod is in. Took the car for a spin around the local circuit, arse seems to stay more planted, you can hear the tyres struggling for purchase on tight corners when I'm up it, but the car is less prone to snap oversteer, when I thow it in hard on the gas, LOL, "throw it hard"... to get the arse out a bit, it's much more smoother it seems. Anyways, it's nothing magical, but it is better than what it was. Hearing the tyres wheel spin a bit bitting for traction is much better than the quite "86's on ice", feeling it was previously. Only took 1 whiskey to do it to. Coils in and alignment next.