Komdotkom

M4 or M6 something like that. I can't recall the size for RB's but I mostly use 1/8 NPT

Holy thread derailment batman! You can totally grub screw the crank yourself if you are looking to save time / money, just use a bit of care and NPT taps. I have broken an NPT tap off in a crank before, it wasn't fun to remove. Make a basic slide hammer out of a bit of all thread the plugs are not that tight (which always surprises me). The other option is just get one of these, then you won't have to waste time. https://www.callies.com/catalog/product/nissan-rb26/

Just leave it to a pro mate, the quality of the hone is critical to ring seal and while they can look fine there's a lot more to it than that. https://www.speed-talk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=10585

Yeah, Maxspeeding rods will be fine but you'll have to check the lengths and big / small ends for size.

Nah, alloy rods are NFG - they life out pretty quickly. $200 for rod bolts, $30 each to have them resized = $400 Forged rods = $850 Is another rod based engine failure worth $450 to you? Yes, I'm conveniently ignoring that you may have to resize the forged rods but the Carillo's I've used in the past have always been mint (but not $850) It's logic like this which has lead me to the worlds most expensive RB20

These guys have a fix for the rod bolt issue, it's the only sensible option. https://www.cp-carrillo.com/pt-3508-rods.html I'll have a look for those pump gears on the weekend when I'm at the workshop.

It took me ages to get all that dust on there, don't wash it off!

I'm all for new products and manufacturers but they can't seriously expect to sell stuff with that type of information. Perhaps they sell through workshops who can demo the product on other cars.

Who's doing the tuning for you?

The pro package is really more about the contact patch of the tyre and building a model around that as a target. This is largely managed through DBW position but wheel slip and boost are also variables. I've got 12 position switch for target power and another 12 position switch for 'traction', it then dreams up a map in between the two by shaping the boost curve and DBW position to suit. I'll shoot you a map if you want to have a squizz

To the best of my knowledge GPR doesn't do torque management so you don't have to worry about that aspect of it. I haven't tried but you should be able to build a table for turbine speed vs WG position or DC to prevent future explosions. Would you go with another PSR or genuine this time? A mate runs a 40mm DBW TB to atmosphere as a boost bleed pre TB and fresh air anti lag. This results in wild turbine speeds and response. And broken turbos!

When you say GPRP is that GPR+paddle shift or GPR+Pro? There's some pretty nifty stuff you can do with Pro which may be of some use to you but I'm in the process of setting it up on mine at the moment so don't have a super deep understanding of the torque model at the moment.

Jesus the Apex Turbo website is terrible, I couldn't buy something with so little detail.

Saliba Engine Services. Expensive but you get what you pay for.

If you have time I'd love to hear how it all went. Car looked great on track, looked like you had a couple of quick laps ruined by traffic.

Good luck at WTAC mate.

So you're running the standard centre bearing on the tailshaft? My car is a 32 but it looks a bit poxy.

Nah bruz, I no wat I got and whattis wurf.

I'm also keen to hear about your 2 piece and the specs. My HGT finally arrived yesterday so a custom made 2 piece tailshaft is in my future.

I've got a brand new genuine Nissan BM50 brake master, never had fluid in it. My car runs a pedal box and this is of no use to me. The cheapest I've seen them online is $660AUD $400 posted in Australia - no swaps for broken fish tanks, your cousins VN commodore or iTunes gift cards. You transfer cash to me via EFT and I'll post it to you.

I hear that Emtron have copied the Motec M1 torque mapping model. So now it's a Link ECU running Motec software, great....

That's shit news about the Artec wrap, I just got the notification last week that it was in stock but I'm not thrilled about the fitment issues. Keep us updated on the stuff that doesn't fit from Funk, I was looking at their stuff for my car. But I'm still waiting for my sequential box that was supposed to be 4 weeks when I ordered it in February....

So what's the current favoured R35 coil kit? I was going to get the BPP one.

I get lectured all the time about this, one of my mates is a good steerer and a data boffin. He's always going on about 'zero time' and how I can't have the throttle shut and no brake input either. I've never driven SMSP but it looks like all the quick guys really test 'track limits'.

In the absence of any good quality and low cost units I've decided to make them myself with the assistance of a friend who's an electronics engineer. The components are quite cheap and he's a boffin so I'm just waiting for him to work out the Motec can protocols and I'll have them sorted. It won't work for other systems, will need to be Motec unless your device can configure can messages.