Komdotkom

I think that's true of many people within the automotive after market. Too busy working in the business to be working on the business.

I heard from Artec today (after I emailed them again) and they were very apologetic and stated that the early manifolds had QC issues. They offered to pay the courier costs to them for rectification and return back to me. Their solution is to enlarge the holes, they assure me the port alignment is good. I said that I've got access to a mill and will just fix it myself and send them the bill, it'll be cheaper than the couriers anyway and not done with a die grinder. I'll stick the inspection camera down there and see what the port interface is like. Yep, I totally would have had a Sinco instead and they were my first choice but it was almost impossible to purchase anything from them. I called and emailed a few times and got no response. I'm not a fan of the WG integration on the 6Boost products, but they seem to make good power. My fabricator is a full boffin and wants to make something but I don't have time for that.

I'll post that head drain to you tomorrow mate if I don't forget.

Suggested alternatives? I quite like the look of these https://www.waltonmotorsport.com/product/walton-motorsport-rb-turbo-manifold-rb20-rb25-rb26/

Nothing so far from Artec, maybe I'll have to go back through their dealer network.

I tried to fit mine today, manifold drilling was miles out and will not fit. Woeful alignment, who knows what the ports will be like... Waiting to hear from Artec next week.

https://speedflow.com.au/npt-in-hex-plugs-from/

M4 or M6 something like that. I can't recall the size for RB's but I mostly use 1/8 NPT

Holy thread derailment batman! You can totally grub screw the crank yourself if you are looking to save time / money, just use a bit of care and NPT taps. I have broken an NPT tap off in a crank before, it wasn't fun to remove. Make a basic slide hammer out of a bit of all thread the plugs are not that tight (which always surprises me). The other option is just get one of these, then you won't have to waste time. https://www.callies.com/catalog/product/nissan-rb26/

Just leave it to a pro mate, the quality of the hone is critical to ring seal and while they can look fine there's a lot more to it than that. https://www.speed-talk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=10585

Yeah, Maxspeeding rods will be fine but you'll have to check the lengths and big / small ends for size.

Nah, alloy rods are NFG - they life out pretty quickly. $200 for rod bolts, $30 each to have them resized = $400 Forged rods = $850 Is another rod based engine failure worth $450 to you? Yes, I'm conveniently ignoring that you may have to resize the forged rods but the Carillo's I've used in the past have always been mint (but not $850) It's logic like this which has lead me to the worlds most expensive RB20

These guys have a fix for the rod bolt issue, it's the only sensible option. https://www.cp-carrillo.com/pt-3508-rods.html I'll have a look for those pump gears on the weekend when I'm at the workshop.

It took me ages to get all that dust on there, don't wash it off!

I'm all for new products and manufacturers but they can't seriously expect to sell stuff with that type of information. Perhaps they sell through workshops who can demo the product on other cars.

Who's doing the tuning for you?

The pro package is really more about the contact patch of the tyre and building a model around that as a target. This is largely managed through DBW position but wheel slip and boost are also variables. I've got 12 position switch for target power and another 12 position switch for 'traction', it then dreams up a map in between the two by shaping the boost curve and DBW position to suit. I'll shoot you a map if you want to have a squizz

To the best of my knowledge GPR doesn't do torque management so you don't have to worry about that aspect of it. I haven't tried but you should be able to build a table for turbine speed vs WG position or DC to prevent future explosions. Would you go with another PSR or genuine this time? A mate runs a 40mm DBW TB to atmosphere as a boost bleed pre TB and fresh air anti lag. This results in wild turbine speeds and response. And broken turbos!

When you say GPRP is that GPR+paddle shift or GPR+Pro? There's some pretty nifty stuff you can do with Pro which may be of some use to you but I'm in the process of setting it up on mine at the moment so don't have a super deep understanding of the torque model at the moment.

Jesus the Apex Turbo website is terrible, I couldn't buy something with so little detail.

Saliba Engine Services. Expensive but you get what you pay for.

If you have time I'd love to hear how it all went. Car looked great on track, looked like you had a couple of quick laps ruined by traffic.

Good luck at WTAC mate.

So you're running the standard centre bearing on the tailshaft? My car is a 32 but it looks a bit poxy.