Komdotkom

Do you run IR tyre temp on this thing?

I don't think a 28 is realistic but the owner thinks he's Verstappen, but they should do a high 29 if the weather is good. A good mate of mine has done quite a few WTAC's and reckons the hardest bit is banking a decent lap without getting blocked while the track is fast. He came 3rd one year but that was before people lost their minds and built cars like RP968 and the Tilton Evo. Good luck mate, are you getting Brad to help you with setup/engineering? I assume he'll be there anyway.

Good to see you are going mate, it's a big commitment to get there from WA. The workshop I use has a car in Pro Am this year and is hoping to get into the 28s.

Thanks for the detailed reply. Wow, that's a lot of front spring. I have MCA golds in mine and the spring rate is only 450 or 8kg F&R. This is a tarmac rally setup though.

I'd be interested to know what spring rates you've settled on, particularly any impact that your aero has had.

The Bilsteins are not adjustable so they don't give you any opportunity to tune the damping for track conditions. This is for a race application, not a road car. They'd be a pretty decent set of road dampers I think.

I run a 240V heater in mine, works just like a kettle element. My car spends most of its time gathering dust so when I do get around to driving it I pre heat the oil for 15 minutes and then slip the belt off and prime it with a drill. It's a bit of mucking around but I never worry about cold oil on the out lap although I do have to partially block the oil cooler on cold days at PI to get it up to an acceptable temp within 2 laps.

And I thought I had missed it...

I'm selling a set of Gary's Bilsteins if you are interested, only moving them on because of MCA Golds.

It's all about efficiency. Yes you can make that power with a stock head but you have to ram more boost into it to make the same numbers. HP per PSI will be lower because the engine is less efficient, or to put it another way the engine would make more power on the same boost with a more efficient head. I'd like to hear more about the 'failures' with ported heads, I can't say that I've ever had head fail because of the porting.

I'm trying to use as many factory parts as possible to avoid having to wait for custom made spares, so ideally I'll cobble together something which uses a mix of factory parts. I'll probably end up with Z32 shafts and just get a Nismo centre which comes with 6 bolt output shafts. The IPRA car in question is an S14. It uses GK subframe bushes and rear cover but reports from the owner are that this was a pain to install and he wouldn't do it again. He's running GTR six bolt shafts. Due to restrictor and the subsequent rpm limit he's running 3.1 gears, car has a Holinger with 1:1 top.

Oh, I thought that R200V was the correct nomenclature for the later diffs. I just want a better range of low ratios and not have to pay the R/S chassis tax. It would be nice if the 350Z CV driveshafts fit, but one side is too long.

According to the link posted above, it's from an R32 and that's what Amayama list it for. It's a pity that the R200V is a paint to fit, would have been a nice simple upgrade. I'll head back around to his place after the IPRA nationals and dig through his stuff and do some measurements against a 4.375 that I've got.

My sequential box is turning up in the next week or so (in theory) and I need to sort out a diff ratio. A friend of mine races IPRA and has just completed the R200V (350Z) diff swap into his S14, it was a pain in the ass and I'm not willing to go to that much effort so this is not an option. I was going through his pile of left over ring and pinions and he's got a 3.53 for a normal R200 (not R200V with larger pinion diameter) which will do for the short term, I hate going to Sandown anyway so I don't need 300kph. Yes, I've worked out the gear speeds. He doesn't know what the ratio is out of but I'm assuming it's from a R32 RB20E car or perhaps an R33 RB25DE car. Does anyone know if there is any difference with these lower ratio diffs and the crown wheel offsets or ID's? I want to buy a Nismo GT Pro but unsurprisingly they don't have a listing for these two diff's because the cars are taxi's.

It's a nice bit of gear, probably overkill but you know how it is

I've got a cross flow in mine from Race Radiators, it's a twin pass 55mm core. It was a fair bit more than a PWR but has a swirl pot and a few other things I wanted which you can't get off the shelf. He's the Victorian agent for PWR and does their warranty stuff, he doesn't use their cores.

That's a substantial turbo! What's the thinking with the change? EMAP too high?

You might want to have a read through this if you haven't paid for the HTG yet. https://performanceforums.com/forums/forum/general/general-discussions/7176590-dct-anyone-running-one-in-aftermarket-setup/page8

Z221>AR1 in every possible way.

Wow, your mid corner grip is terrible. Put some toe on the back, get some cheap track tyres like AR1's and ditch the locker. If the car is super low you might want to consider changing the sub frame bushes to solids or zero height units at the back and raising the rear, same ride height but your rear geo will be closer to standard giving you better camber and toe curves.

Yep, and wheel speed sensors. This can be made simpler if you are running out of inputs (4xdig inputs required) by running the Bosch Motorsport ABS which will transmit your wheel speeds over CAN. The bad news is you need to convert the rear ABS sensors to work on the hub end of the driveshaft because it's quite fussy about drive shaft wind up. That and the cost of course..... I'm not familiar with Haltech but from what I've heard they also do a version of torque management which is similar and simpler to setup than the M150 Pro package. Seems to work in drag cars ok.

I'm very happy about this. I've got exactly the same to go on mine if my gearbox ever arrives.

I've got a new 21U highflow if you are interested. Tao did some secret squirrel shit to it about 5 years ago then I never used it. Made 280kw on an RB25

Mine is due in April. Not 4wd.

Sounds good, I'm keen to see how it goes. I've just got a G30-770 but think it's going to be a bit small.