Komdotkom

Amazing

I've got three stashed away but it's starting to get silly with the prices

Oh righto, Brad is always banging on about the gear pos sensor and how critical it is. Better than rusty actuator like a holinger

It's not the dreaded rusty actuator syndrome I hope. I've often wondered if for short events like WTAC whether there is a benefit to running a tank for the shifter instead of a compressor to get around this issue.

Great pic

This thing did a 1:20.88 at Winton on the weekend which is f**king rapid. Well done mate, your driving has really gone up a few notches not much left on the table now! Good luck at WTAC. https://www.facebook.com/share/r/1MHyZQBqZ2/

Return flow cooler will be killing you I reckon. You can certainly push more through a low mount setup but they're good numbers for a stock looking engine bay. Mine made 345rwkw (hub) at 22psi on 98 with a "highflow" on a stock manifold but it's a long way from a normal high flow or standard engine. I used one of those Turbosmart IWG-75's and it was great with the Motec running closed loop boost with pressure being applied to both sides of the diaphragm.

So you pulled the dirty 30 and sold it as a roller? I'll just leave this here for you. https://www.facebook.com/share/19G2TdBXLS/

The other trick I've found with wrinkle black is to put the can in hot water for a bit to warm the paint up, and to pre-heat whatever you're painting. It'll be interesting to see if you pick up any power with the intake, following with interest. Got a proper lsd for this?

Thanks for posting, your engine bay looks tops. I'm fairly sure you posted the wrong video though, I think you were supposed to upload the one from your "private test road" where it's banging off the limiter with the gate open?

I've got the rear ones, they're certainly beefy. I need to take them to my driveshaft guru to check over, he's very fussy about the quality of components so I'll let you know if they are made of cheese by a blind man. Are you in Australia? A mate just had a set of EN26 shafts made for his K20 Lotus by our fabricator which were quite cheap (compared to Driveshaft Shop) so if you can procure the CV's and draw what you need he'd make them for ~$800 for the pair.

Wow, there's a user name I haven't seen for a while! Good to see you back @Sydneykid

My muffler was fully customised to suit the car. He mailed me the end caps, I marked up the pipe locations (4 pipes in a single muffler) and he sent it back all welded. Certainly more expensive than a mass produced generic size, but that's hardly surprising. My R32 Exhaust has a Magnaflow muffler in it, if I need generic mufflers then they're usually a safe bet. I've got the Vibrant clamps on the intercooler pipes, just because they're nicer to use than the bolt together ones and not as expensive as a real Wiggins clamp.

+1 for these guys, they just made me a custom muffler for another car (old Merc V8 not a Skyline) and they are legends to work with and do very nice work at a reasonable price.

I might have to shoot them an email. Pity the exchange rate is so bad at the moment. BTW, thanks for posting that table makes interesting reading.

Me too, I wish they did v band reverse rotation - I'd order one straight away. Did you listen to the HPA interview with one of the Xona guys, quite interesting.

Reasonably hard, although I haven't run it with the new Endless setup yet. The old brakes were F50's on 335mm rotors and the car did a 1:40.6 at Phillip Island which is a reasonable time, I'm seeing high 600s on the temperature paint. A guy I know ran the Endless fluid at WTAC without issues and he was doing 1:33's I think (Evo) with a 355/332 setup. I don't get out to the track as much as I'd like but we put the car on the hoist and spanner check every bolt and re-paint mark everything, bleed the brakes, change the fuel, check the coolant system and re-bleed blah blah blah before every event. Motorsport is expensive, RB's are expensive so a couple of hours before an event is time well spent. It's also a net time saving because if you can keep your RB from self destructing it saves you time in the long term!

This has been covered a bazillion times but google wet boiling point vs dry. Motul is only good when it's fresh, once it absorbs moisture it gets pretty average very quickly. So as above, make sure you change it if you're going racing. I run the Endless brake fluid in mind, but only because a mate is a distributor and it's cheap. It's not quite as good as SRF but I'm running 380mm rotors on a Skyline so it's not like they get hot.

Nah, that's the video I was referring to! I want to see you have a proper crack this time, unlike at 2:20 in that video where you are just taking it easy! What do you reckon it'll do at Wakefield? 1:03 ish?

We'd better get some in car footage of the new car in action. I hope you've got new tyres for it this time!

You could have a chat to these guys and empty your bank account, I like their de-stroked 2.5 combo. https://esslingeracing.com/mazda-4-v-per-cylinder-4-cyl-engines/mzr-2-5l

But to be fair, I think people have gone faster on Bob Jane All Rounders than AR1's; particularly if it's wet.

https://www.kumho.com.au/tyres/racing/ Generally people don't run slicks because most of them don't heat cycle very well, and they aren't legal for many types of racing. Track tyres and road tyres are never the same thing and I can't think of a tyre which does both well. A second set of rims with track rubber is the simplest solution; in my experience aside from seat time quality tyres are the best way to lower lap times.

I've run most of the semis which are available and sadly you can pretty much rank them by price. Fast and spendy = Z221, A050, DZ03G Ok and mid range price = R888, V70A, A052 I don't really rate the AR-1 because it's not cheap enough for the performance level offered. Yes, they're much cheaper than A050 but V70A can be had just as cheap and is a much faster and more predictable tyre.

That's a solid update mate, well done at WA FOS. You may already know this, but the actuators on the paddle shift are a service item and are sadly not that reliable. As I understand it they collect water from the compressor (condensation) which then rusts the bores/pistons in the actuators. A mate of mine had no end of trouble with them in one if his circuit cars, apparently it's a 'known issue'. Buy a couple of spares at great expense to ensure you never have any problems with the ones you've got! Any clues about what the new WTAC rules might be? While faster cars are cool the Pro class arms race has got to the point where you wouldn't even bother entering without a $1m budget and even then I don't think you'd win.