Komdotkom

Nah bruz, I no wat I got and whattis wurf.

I'm also keen to hear about your 2 piece and the specs. My HGT finally arrived yesterday so a custom made 2 piece tailshaft is in my future.

I've got a brand new genuine Nissan BM50 brake master, never had fluid in it. My car runs a pedal box and this is of no use to me. The cheapest I've seen them online is $660AUD $400 posted in Australia - no swaps for broken fish tanks, your cousins VN commodore or iTunes gift cards. You transfer cash to me via EFT and I'll post it to you.

I hear that Emtron have copied the Motec M1 torque mapping model. So now it's a Link ECU running Motec software, great....

That's shit news about the Artec wrap, I just got the notification last week that it was in stock but I'm not thrilled about the fitment issues. Keep us updated on the stuff that doesn't fit from Funk, I was looking at their stuff for my car. But I'm still waiting for my sequential box that was supposed to be 4 weeks when I ordered it in February....

So what's the current favoured R35 coil kit? I was going to get the BPP one.

I get lectured all the time about this, one of my mates is a good steerer and a data boffin. He's always going on about 'zero time' and how I can't have the throttle shut and no brake input either. I've never driven SMSP but it looks like all the quick guys really test 'track limits'.

In the absence of any good quality and low cost units I've decided to make them myself with the assistance of a friend who's an electronics engineer. The components are quite cheap and he's a boffin so I'm just waiting for him to work out the Motec can protocols and I'll have them sorted. It won't work for other systems, will need to be Motec unless your device can configure can messages.

Correct, 300mm wide temperature gradient. Might be a bit narrow on this thing though with the massive boots it wears!

Get with the program mate! I knew there was something you hadn't upgraded on this thing. I'm in the process of doing it with mine at the moment, I'll shoot you some details once it's sorted.

Do you run IR tyre temp on this thing?

I don't think a 28 is realistic but the owner thinks he's Verstappen, but they should do a high 29 if the weather is good. A good mate of mine has done quite a few WTAC's and reckons the hardest bit is banking a decent lap without getting blocked while the track is fast. He came 3rd one year but that was before people lost their minds and built cars like RP968 and the Tilton Evo. Good luck mate, are you getting Brad to help you with setup/engineering? I assume he'll be there anyway.

Good to see you are going mate, it's a big commitment to get there from WA. The workshop I use has a car in Pro Am this year and is hoping to get into the 28s.

Thanks for the detailed reply. Wow, that's a lot of front spring. I have MCA golds in mine and the spring rate is only 450 or 8kg F&R. This is a tarmac rally setup though.

I'd be interested to know what spring rates you've settled on, particularly any impact that your aero has had.

The Bilsteins are not adjustable so they don't give you any opportunity to tune the damping for track conditions. This is for a race application, not a road car. They'd be a pretty decent set of road dampers I think.

I run a 240V heater in mine, works just like a kettle element. My car spends most of its time gathering dust so when I do get around to driving it I pre heat the oil for 15 minutes and then slip the belt off and prime it with a drill. It's a bit of mucking around but I never worry about cold oil on the out lap although I do have to partially block the oil cooler on cold days at PI to get it up to an acceptable temp within 2 laps.

And I thought I had missed it...

I'm selling a set of Gary's Bilsteins if you are interested, only moving them on because of MCA Golds.

It's all about efficiency. Yes you can make that power with a stock head but you have to ram more boost into it to make the same numbers. HP per PSI will be lower because the engine is less efficient, or to put it another way the engine would make more power on the same boost with a more efficient head. I'd like to hear more about the 'failures' with ported heads, I can't say that I've ever had head fail because of the porting.

I'm trying to use as many factory parts as possible to avoid having to wait for custom made spares, so ideally I'll cobble together something which uses a mix of factory parts. I'll probably end up with Z32 shafts and just get a Nismo centre which comes with 6 bolt output shafts. The IPRA car in question is an S14. It uses GK subframe bushes and rear cover but reports from the owner are that this was a pain to install and he wouldn't do it again. He's running GTR six bolt shafts. Due to restrictor and the subsequent rpm limit he's running 3.1 gears, car has a Holinger with 1:1 top.

Oh, I thought that R200V was the correct nomenclature for the later diffs. I just want a better range of low ratios and not have to pay the R/S chassis tax. It would be nice if the 350Z CV driveshafts fit, but one side is too long.

According to the link posted above, it's from an R32 and that's what Amayama list it for. It's a pity that the R200V is a paint to fit, would have been a nice simple upgrade. I'll head back around to his place after the IPRA nationals and dig through his stuff and do some measurements against a 4.375 that I've got.

My sequential box is turning up in the next week or so (in theory) and I need to sort out a diff ratio. A friend of mine races IPRA and has just completed the R200V (350Z) diff swap into his S14, it was a pain in the ass and I'm not willing to go to that much effort so this is not an option. I was going through his pile of left over ring and pinions and he's got a 3.53 for a normal R200 (not R200V with larger pinion diameter) which will do for the short term, I hate going to Sandown anyway so I don't need 300kph. Yes, I've worked out the gear speeds. He doesn't know what the ratio is out of but I'm assuming it's from a R32 RB20E car or perhaps an R33 RB25DE car. Does anyone know if there is any difference with these lower ratio diffs and the crown wheel offsets or ID's? I want to buy a Nismo GT Pro but unsurprisingly they don't have a listing for these two diff's because the cars are taxi's.

It's a nice bit of gear, probably overkill but you know how it is