Komdotkom

If you are doing this type of thing on a regular basis I'd suggest that you invest in a couple of dial indicators and make a jig like this, it will give you the most accurate and repeatable results. Cheap dial indicators are available for as little as $35 these days so for a total investment of ~$100 and a couple of hours you will be able to create a measurement device that you will doubtless use on countless occasions in future.

I purchased one last year and have put it into my new engine, but I haven't started it yet. Well made and the clearances were perfect, so in theory it should be a good thing.

I got my kit last week, simple to fit and very nicely made. Certainly a much better option than bespoke jap units, I got a brand new Bosch 140a delivered for $223.

Be very very careful with the PWR radiator and 'stray current' issues. They have a fairly poor reputation when it comes to warranty replacements. Another good option is Race Radiators in Melbourne if you are looking for a custom setup, they just made me a three core twin pass unit with swirl pot. It was about $900 including the pot.

Great build mate, the dog box must be a steep learning curve! After having the MCA reds in for a while, what's your overall impression of them?

Any news on this? I'm keen to hear if you have managed to pick up any hidden hp with the altered trigger. I'm still hoping that there's a way to get the IWG EFR's to make decent numbers.

Thanks Trent, currently looking at alternatives.....

I hope that's not true since I asked Kristian directly prior to purchase if they were genuine....

I have the cam side (complete) if you are looking for it and I think a mate has the crank bracket. If you are keen send me a PM

For f**ks sake, I've just put Yaris coils on mine that I purchased from Goleby's. The didn't come in OEM Toyota boxes so now I suspect that they'll be fakes. What dwell times are you using Trent?

I'm also interested pending pics, drawings and material spec.

I just put a set of Kelfords in mine, let me know if you want a set of HKS 256/264 cheap.

Have a look at the MRM Racing forum that's hosted in Scandinavia somewhere, they have heaps of great info and a very helpful and active community. Autronic's are fine once you get your head around the program, they just lack a lot of the more modern functions like Flex and and not needing a laptop from the dark ages. I ran one on a race car for years without any issues.

3.9's are hard to get, in Australia your best bet will be to get a set from a Z31 at the wreckers although they are not in all year models. 3.7 is quite common though and that's in the majority of Z31's which were delivered to Australia. If you don't mind mucking around the older Z cars have 3.7 and 3.54 but you'll need to make spacers for the diff centre as the bolts are 1mm smaller. This isn't an issue from a strength point of view but it's a bit of mucking around to make it work.

Yes, the ecu still needs to know where the camshafts are up to but the crank trigger keeps your fuel and spark events on time in relation to the piston location. It'd be work looking at whether Nistune can run a crank trigger though. I'm assuming you don't still have the AFM? That's just more aids you need to banish!

https://www.efihardware.com/products/358/gear-tooth-sensor-1GT101DC Super easy to fabricate, just draw it on an open source CNC program like E machine shop and send it off. Should cost less than $200 for the whole lot. If you want any GT101's let me know I've moved on to a Bosch Motorsport sensor for my RB because of extra teeth and have a few new ones lying around.

This is the old turbo before I got external gate Kando for it. I couldn't get the target boost to work with the internal gate so gave it the ass.

Nah, I made the crank trigger myself. Still used the CAS for the sync signal though. You only really need 4 teeth so I just made up a plate that bolted onto the back of the balancer with a GT101 in between the timing belt behind the front cover. You won't realise the benefit of moving the injectors if you keep the butterflies in there. If you are racing the car, it should never be below 3000rpm and therefore the butterflies are useless since you have enough air speed at 3000rpm and boost is building so they are just a restriction.

I've still got a CA, it's just two extra cylinders! We did some testing with timing scatter on the dyno with a Snap-On timing light and a scope which showed some pretty frightening variations in timing through the mid range and it was all over the joint up top. I think this is largely due to 30 year old sensors trying to keep up and just failing. Following crank trigger install it was a completely different beast, in fact that was the very first change I made to my Rb after my previous experience. We also took out those stupid NICS butterflys when I moved the injectors.

Building a good reliable CA for track work isn't hard, I recently sold an S12 with a CA that put out 235rwkw and has great torque. The two best things I did to it were: 1) Crank trigger, get rid of the CAS aids (This car ran Autronic though so I'm not sure if Nistune will accept a crank trigger) 2) Moved the injectors so that they were further up the runners, the factory placement sprays fuel into one valve but not the other. I found quite a good increase in torque because we could crank in a bit more timing. Engine was pretty basic, just 9:1 JE pistons and Spool rods, new OEM oil pump with a direct pressure take off fitting welded to the housing, Kando TD05-18G and NA cams. The car handled like shit but still did 1:51 at the island no problem. I had quite a few pics but Photof**ket.

I'm overhauling my race car and have installed a copper mix twin (c) and a tilton pedal box with a 3/4 clutch master. Pedal ratio is about 7:1 http://tiltonracing.com/product/800-series-overhung-pedal-assembly/ Everyone bangs on about how the coppermix twin is just like a stock clutch, but this with the pedal box mine is really quite heavy. Anyone have experience with this? Just want to make sure that I haven't missed any common things before I change clutch masters at great expense. Cheers.

Probably your local brake shop. They are 10x1mm thread.

Are you 100% sure that your gauge is correct?

http://justjap.com/manufacturers/oem/332/534/genuine-nissan-head-gasket-nissan-rb26dett.html or $51US on Amayama for a genuine RB26 gasket. I agree with no MLS gasket if you can't be certain of the RA on the block deck. Are you worried about PTV clearance or static compression? I wouldn't worry too much about the static comp, dummy assemble and measure the crown clearance with pasticine to work out PTV and your cam timing options.