Komdotkom

Great build mate, not much left to upgrade now. I'm just waiting for the billet VR38/4wd/Spaceframe/Active areo updates which are the logical next step.... Looking forward to your feedback on the Bosch ABS.

But you aren't a Lebanese gangster/bikie and customer of Maatouks. IPRA needs to be a factory block, no aftermarket blocks allowed unless your name is Ray. No special production blocks either, so you can't run a reproduction SBC block. There's a bloke who has cast a 6 cyl K series head for the old L28 from 240Z. It's $20k, but pretty awesome.

It's whether people want the bling of the billet, since you are at a similar price point you may as well go all the way. The other real issue is the head, since everything below it is now aftermarket and optimised the limiting factor becomes the head with its 40 year old design. Someone needs to 3D print a mould for a K series with 2 extra pots on it.

It will be a difficult product to sell in Australia I think. The price point will have to be $6-7k and work with a wet sump, otherwise you'd just get a billet block at $13k ish. The RB also has a less robust crank compared to a 2J, so do you design your aftermarket block around a billet crank which doesn't have the same inherent issues as the factory crank? I'd love to see a taller deck cast block setup for a billet crank which could be purchased as a package from Dart.

I just run R32 ABS knuckles with GT101's in the hole, perfect fit. I knocked 1/2 the teeth off the ABS rings to keep the count under control, GT101's being a bit shit.

f**k, solid update!

I'd be interested to see what you did with the slave cylinder and bearing, why do people not use the standard item? Is it just the overall height is wrong? I'm about to do a cut and shut bellhousing conversion for one of these (if I ever get time)

Talking about valve springs in these terms is problematic. Valve spring pressures are measured at the seat, and on the nose of the cam (max cam lift). Two different springs with the same seat pressure don't necessarily have the same pressure on the nose, and vice versa. Like spring rate vs wheel rate when discussing suspension = apples vs oranges There are so many factors to valve float, seat pressure is barely half the story. Heavy springs will generally help with valve float but they are not always the best way to skin that particular cat and always cost power.

That's interesting, thanks for posting the outcome.

I was doing some data stuff on my car which is also dry sumped and we didn't want the engine running, so used a Subaru cam belt (15km long) and a dry sump mandrel on a power drill. This allowed us to spin the pump independently of the engine and log some data, and the drill can be located in a convenient location without some poor bastard on his back under the car. Perhaps you could do this and see if there's any other weird shit going on? Overall oil pressure isn't your problem, so it's leaking out or you have a faulty solenoid. Alternatively there's something mechanical dragging on the gear, as above it's got nothing to do with valve springs.

While I think you've got SFA chance of actually getting money off them, I would hope that they would offer a significant discount on future entries. Despite the event not running in a competitive sense, I don't think the costs to the organisation will be much lower so from their point of view I don't think it will be viable to hand over any cash.

Is there also rumblings about partial refunds for competitors this year? I can only imagine the money which has gone down the drain for no event this year.

This is my single biggest issue with tarmac rally, the rules change far too often; it's a great way to alienate competitors. Perhaps I've got a different perspective because most of the racers I know are in NC or IPRA and rule changes seldom happen, but it gives people certainty about where they are going and the cars they are building. I'm certainly not saying these categories have the rules correct, IPRA in particular, but given the cost of competitive vehicle construction to a reasonable standard nobody wants to re-build a car to keep up with regular rule changes.

Do you reckon Motorsport Australia will try and dial the rules back a bit to slow the cars down? Or will they just go back to AASA?

And then? I'm pretty close to ordering an HGT for mine.

They make great power too, a mate has a 20B S4 RX-7, but even used motors are fetching huge dollars now. But they don't sound like a 4 rotor. I've always wanted to this to my 240z but I've already got enough projects.

Why no quad rotor? Twice as reliable. Perhaps. But epic sound!

The elephant in the room here is the $25k gearbox to go with a $500 motor. As someone who has spent an unwise amount of money on an RB20 to make it semi decent, build a dirty 30 and enjoy life.

Thanks Geoff, there's not much information around about these turbo's your input is invaluable.

Would you run the G30-770 with the T4 1.06 twin scroll housing instead of the .83 V band on a built RB25?

https://www.efisolutions.com.au/oil-block-an10-rb20-rb25-rb26-rb30 Not a bad bit of gear, I'm using one with my dry sump no issues.

That's going to be hard to get right. You're doing very different calculations so the resolution available in the ECU will be critical. You will need to spend a lot of time making sure that your driven wheel speed matches your front wheel speed, I suspect that you'll need a lot of numbers after the decimal point for this to read correctly.

Yes, just the stock ABS sensor hole (shims needed to get correct sensor clearance) and then I chucked the tone ring in the rotary table and knocked off every second tooth in the mill. You need to have an ECU which can do different wheel speed calculations on either end of the car, I'm not sure what you are running but Motec does it. I don't have much experience with the other brands. On the rear I just run unmodified tone rings because the teeth are larger and further apart which works for GT101's. It's worth noting that GT101's get a bad wrap largely on missing tooth setups, which they are shit at. On constant tooth setups I've not had any dramas with them but I always have spares ready to go just in case.

I use the factory ABS holes and run GT101 style hall sensors on the ABS rings. Due to the high tooth count and low diameter I've reduced the number of teeth by 50%, still much better than wheel studs. This works fine with my Motec setup, I use the rear ABS sensors for rear wheel speed.

Not much, 343kw