tridentt150v

Ages ago I was told that Tomei cams don't need to be dialled in and should always be set to zero ...for RB25 Gtst's. This was after we dialled in [from memory 5 degrees [could have been 10, it was 20 years ago]] and it ran like shit. Asking around everyone said to set to zero and it will work.....we did, and it did. I could be wrong for your motor, but if you don't see gains then zero is your answer. But Dose Pipe and GTSboy will know more.

Well check it in the dark and make sure it isn't arcing out or doing something stupid at least.

I'd also consider wrapping that broken part of the coil plug with some insulation tape....to be sure to be sure!!!

How To Fit A Z32 Afm - Page 3 - Tutorials / DIY / FAQ - SAU Community

Don't worry, he will be using his own Howto very soon.

Ohh a new dipstick.....🤣🤣

And you don't want your float mechanism....it has f#ck all to do with any issue you have. If you are trying to get your fuel pump out I suggest you have a look in the tutorial section of the forum....quite a few good people have contributed threads on this sort of topic. Here's one: R33 Gtst Fuel Pump Install - Page 4 - Tutorials / DIY / FAQ - SAU Community

In every corner of every country of this flat world we live in there is a pissing pole otherwise we wouldn't get 800kw daily drivers.

I honestly can't understand how the car could even do dyno runs........surely it would have had trouble revving out? And what is the crud made up of? road gravel? metal? old belt?

How is your balancer? hasn't spun at all has it? 4 teeth for both IN and EX seems consistent and excessive.

One thing i will say...I've always had 'bomb' insurance for mine, I couldn't really justify comprehensive given the value and with the mods I have. But with this ever upwards pricing trend, I might have to consider it, if I could ever get a company interested enough.

Added to that, throw up a power figure.....with those mods it has to be a selling point.

Hybrid turbo....as a general rule if you are producing more power then you will use some oil, its a fact of life. I'm not sure where it starts to burn oil [and would change with each motor anyway] but probably around the 200-250rwkw and increases with power output. As a rough guide 300rwkw would be approx 1/2 to 1 litre per 1000km.

These days I see enough wrinkles when I am shaving.....I really don't need any more in my life. Personally I think I'd buy a 35 over a 34 at those prices.........I hate auto's/paddles but I think I'll get over that eventually with 3.8 vs 2.6. And I'm not really on a stalg kick... GTA and F&F didn't make me buy, at the time I bought it was the best bang in the lowest km, latest model, for the bucks. i had a defined pocket of cash and went shopping for the weekend and came home with a Skyline, simple. I have since that time learnt to appreciate my accidental purchase.

And when you are chasing higher power/boost/and airflow that front pipe is the first one you replace with a hard pipe - even before you start upgrading. So really its not an issue...cos its gone.

Sorry i thought the issue was alignment with other pulleys. If not then scratch that idea.

Could you machine the back of it down? looks to be room to do it.

Bens right...that guy is a dick....no way could you see the sort of fluctuations he is looking for on a timing belt. More likely be due to induced feedback in his light cos he is using the same vehicles battery as a power source.

As an adjunct to this discussion..........the whole cars for sale section on SAU is D E A D. Once you would see Skylines being sold like virgin slaves at a roman market...but these days you are lucky to see one for sale at all. It will soon get to the stage where people that have been racing/tracking their car will be reinstalling the interior and using/selling them because the perceived value is too high to push it into a wall trackside.

If AEM have an electronic tuning/metering kit then it could work ok-ish but in a limited capacity......because you rely on its 'brains' to manage the WMI. ie I have a Snow performance SIII kit that has its own control module, lets you input IDC and boost triggers and then a sliding scale for when the WMI is triggered and by how much, then at what trigger/s it reaches full flow. eg I use 12psi and AND/OR 50% injector duty cycle to start injection at 40% flow and then 16psi and 85% IDC for full flow. You would also need a knock sensor and digital display to check operation. But to be honest, a nistune or haltech would be better.

There are certain cashed up members of society that would be 'pullin' their pud' over that ....thing

MAF?

Well...to be fair to all, the OP asked about a GTR - true........but then mistakenly also talked about 20 and 25 DET motors......this added to some of the confusion. IMO, don't buy a Skyline unless: you want +20 year old power and are willing to chase the rainbow, have a good tool kit and aren't afraid to use it, are happier throwing spanners around than watching TV can live on 2 minute noodles and no money but have a great 6 -boost/garrett/hks/ etc etc etc to install have no girlfriend or a long suffering one who understands know that you can't make every trendy coffee shop meet cos you need to get the car going again all your t shirts have oil/grease stains Others can add to the list, I've probably forgotten a fair few.