sneakey pete

Drove the Newall on 1 and 1 and it felt fine for just cruising

Mates was a bit high so we adjusted the rod.. 1 minute before a track session... the wrong way... not that smart but we did sort it in the end . They drive fine. If you have 5km of stop start traffic on the way to work every morning then... buy a daily

You mention equal flow distribution, but is that not the whole point of the fancy hypertune plenum in the first place?

Search wmi or meth perhaps. Pretty sure the thread n it was discussed as recently as last month so maybe just scroll down a few pages of topics even. Would there be any issues doing it multi port, or benefits over single port?

If you must buy a new car get an autech 33gtr, awd 4 door using the gtr gear. Way easier than doing a conversion yourself

Pretty sure it depends what you spec, but as you said if you have a fully divide 1-3 and 4-6 but then merge them before the flange with a single dump port that's a bit silly, they need to be separated from each-other by the gate in its closed position, if you have a manifold like the jz one depicted above it needs to have a diver plate down the middle to seat on the face of the gate. That being said i belive a shop up in T'bar is doing a back to back test of the twin scroll with open single gate vs twin scroll with twin gate manifolds, so that should be interesting when they finish that

Just make sure you verify the ECU wouldn't throw a fit and revert to a 98 map or something though

Over pressure relief valve. Probably don't need it. your current choice of actions seem pretty good unless your power goals are 500awkw with ethanol or something like that. A lot of people seem to go for a new fuel rail when they don't need it, stock can do 400+ on E85. guess its one of those "well that car i saw had one so i must need one" kind of thing. Reserved a freddy rail to pick up when i'm home myself today, but my power goals are up at that 500kw on ethanol mark. Also means i need to get an new FPR, another thing people seem to buy for no reason

put in a pre and post temp sensor guage then. Pretty sure they sell them as all in one units with 1/8npt fittings. just need some trickery to get them in then

If that is the issue, you can also do a crank trigger conversion to get rock stable timing, or mod the cas to a wheel that has more teeth in the disc which also helps a lot apparently, and i'd think the new link you have will accept both. Not sure who does the cas mods though.

Yeah its a balance pipe flange. Secondly, as you haven't received the car yet i can somewhat understand why you think you could change the manifolds easily. However you cannot. It is a very, very tight space to get to stuff with the engine in the car. As someone who currently is sitting at 8 months without a working skyline, take my advice: get it, do the basic services, drive it, enjoy it in the warm months you have, and figure out any other little issues you want to fix. Then go single turbo.

Skimmed ep1, watched ep3 and part of ep4, thought chris harris was ok, everyone but chris evans and matt leblanc really. Segments themselves were good (though mainly saw car review type ones on those episodes, not the road trip etc) but i can see how a roadtrip segment with the before mentioned two would make for poor viewing. Biggest issue i saw was the in studio bits, you'd have a car segment then Matt talking to whoever the presenter was asking stupid questions which didn't really relate to the cars at all

Or get eBay rail that seals and your sweet, it's a hollow box not too much to it

Plenty of people are able to get rid of the cold start valve and use the factory stepper motor for cold as start control on an aftermarket ecu. Probably a combo of better electronics than the 80s and the majority here not living in areas where it gets nearly as cold as Japan

What engine is that on?

Yep, get rid of IAC, keep aac and use the ecu to control it for cold start. hopefully not too late for you to do that.

Sorted out the under plenum pipework. Much much better. Could have removed the unused fittings from the plenum and tapped+bunged them I suppose, but will just cap them and water inlet on the under runner water line. Retaining heater so now all I have is hot water out the block and the return. Also as promised, pictures of the twin intank pump setup. I'm getting some Hicas lines (threw mine away, silly..) to use as hard lines for the fuel feed and return. Also pissed off the BoV's and pipework. Some good weight reduction there... Finally a mate was around and installed the LED high beams he'd been bugging me to do for ages. With these in and the HID's I should be able to do the mod to keep the low beams on with the highs, resulting in a much nicer amount of light at night. Unfortunately i've had a few hold ups... Decided to throw the inspection camera in the sump just in case... And found 2 of the 3 trapdoors are stuck open. The pickup doesn't really look good either, its on a ~15 degree angle from the bottom of the sump and around what looks to be 10mm from the bottom at the high end, from what I understand not really good enough. Also the oil pump wasn't notched enough for the crank trigger, so balancer will need to come off so I can attack it with a dremel. Literally only need to take 1mm of material off but its... frustrating. Also need to figure out how to actually fix the sensor in place, that's a bit of a mystery (cherry sensor). All in all, fun and games but a bit of a delay induced.

Exactly what I'm going to do for mine, except i'll have a vent to sump

Started workign on under the plenum today, deleting the coolant and air lines that run around the back to the turbo plus the oil cooler lines. Used a RB20 water tap from the block instead of the split 26 one and got the ports on the water tube welded closed. Also removed the IAC as it was likely leaking and isn't required with the after market ECU, can just use the AAC for cold start. All in all should be a lot less crowded down there... until I put the loom back in and i'm sure it'll look like a dogs breakfast again... Also got my twin in tank fuel system done, pretty stoked with that, i'll grab some pictures tomorrow. Need to find some old hicas lines to use as fuel feed and return I think.

Can't even see the best bits in that photo. Will probably help my dad do a rebuild once the car is back up and running, its getting pretty bad. This week hopefully, got the whole week off so progress should be quicker

A wild built engine appears! Didn't get it up onto the stand today however, had errands to run in the afternoon. Will be able to see it in all its glory tomorrow.

Fuel tank out and exhaust off today, moved the car out and cleaned up, got the engine stand out. All ready for a special delivery tomorrow... I'm going to miss this exhaust, seemed like a great performer and was good for noise, the full mid muffler may have something to do with that. Will have to crack it in half and have a squiz at the internal diameter later. What are all you single turbo people doing for the turbo fluids? Oil intake should be easy, line from the block to turbo with correct fittings/elbows etc, ditto for water. Its the drains/returns i'm wondering about. Oil wise as I understand use the front oil return, and block off the rear? braided return? Water wise, the factory water return setup has a weird hardline combo that runs both to the water area at the rear of the block and also to the water return at the front of the block, I could tap it into that or just run a braided line to the front hardline?

Yeah there were some... sacrifices made by Nissan to enable the twin turbo components to actually be removable in car, its not all ideal. Got the turbo from GcG, they had one in stock so it was pretty easy. Manifold is going to be made up by a friend who is a fabricator. Picked up a few other things over the last few weeks. Rebuilt starter motor, R33 A/C compressor and honeywell 0-150PSI pressure sensors for the oil and fuel systems. Will be getting the engine on Monday, stuff will be getting serious then!

I was under the impression that full race was just the AC, I think i've seen their manifold on a car with 32 power steering still on it.

New part arrived today. Borg Warner ERF 8374, with the 0.92 AR internal gate housing. Also got the turbosmart dual port waste-gate actuator for it and the speed sensor so I can keep track of what the turbo is doing (though i don't expect it to be getting close to overspeed on the setup, it'll be nice to see what's going on) First impressions of the turbo was "holy crap this is big". Second was "wow, I didn't expect it to be this big". but all in all the quality of all the castings look great (I think they had some issues with them for a few months back when they were new), and the thing that really gets me is that it only weighs 13.6kg's as pictured, which is amazingly light. I'm pretty sure the gtx2860's I had were 12kg's each. Once you add up the weight of the BOV's and piping i can remove, It'll be interesting to see how much total weight, and its weight in front of the front wheels, is lost. I'm going to try to tally it up.