sneakey pete

I just don't really want 500+kW, so why go bigger? More momentum etc with the bigger wheel is my logic

Would probably try get someone like crg to knock one up. Iwg would make it easy enough to fit A good 400kw would be more than enough, But track time would be had. Are these too small comments based on 'well you could make even more power' or on the turbo falling way out of range resulting in a dangerous amount of heat

It'd be lownountded anyway so odds are anything bigger isn't going to fit in future

So, theoretically speaking here of course,.... How would one go with the 7670 .92 iwg split t4 rear on a 2.8 stroker with 260 cams?

Stop making me want to flog off all my gtx twins bits and making me want to buy a 7670 guys...

Pft, we have events dedicated to drag racing on the main straight in Queensland... Something that's come from the track we have I'm sure

Don't know where the 80 at 3k is coming from, it's closer to 60 on my graph. If I had better connection ID dig up the last graph I had done, when it was on e85

Bulk skidz

Pfft, 18s. 17s 245/40/17 from memory. Pretty much the same size though so above would be correct.

Least my new turbos will be nicer

Here's the dyno sheet for them on 98.

20 psi at 6000rpm... on e85. Yer....

Speaking of that, does anyone want to buy my rb26 ones?

Wouldn't a gtx 3076 be better and cheaper?

He did mine Still a while, have not yet got engine or update on it, shall send the builder a message tommorow to see about that actually.Considering Getting a shop to put it in and getting it running to save time and prevent me making cockups

It's not exactly easy, you'd be better just getting a set of -9 or stock front covers like I did for my gtx2860s.I'm not sure the gain will justify it, but I am sure there will be a small gain

Yes, it's a front mounted turbo though. I mean more low mount twins ala 300zx/r35 style, sorry I didn't clean that up

Turbo is impossible then. Vq37dett might be a better proposition... Or just vr38 swap

Yeah, that's a good point, i'll get it looked at when i'm getting the exhaust fitted up, plenty of opportunity to get it right there, need to get it ceramic coated aswell. I hadn't forgotten about the restrictors, though I haven't got them yet. I did have a quick search and didn't find anywhere the sells them, (I think, i'm not even sure what they look like) but I might have just been using the wrong search term. Where did you get yours from? As far as the airbox, I have a few idea's of what to do. Do you still use the standard airbox to turbo pipes, and do you have any issues with them on your setup?

Sorry for the delay, been busy at work. Anyway, here goes. First, a bit of a trip back in time. In the last half of last year I started to get seriously interested in the new garrett GTX turbo range. I was after a turbo with a bit more top end than garrett -9's, but without a heap of extra lag. To that end I acquired a set of GTX2860's complete with rear housings from a set of -5's. The attraction was light weight compressor that had good flow. That being said, the rear of them is the same size as a -5, so perhaps I should have picked up a pair of -9's or -7's, bought the compressor wheel and swapped it over. That's for someone else to try. The gtx2860's (and 63's, 67's etc) ship with an anti surge housing, designed with slip over couplings, 3" inlet 2" outlet from memory. Due to the placement of the turbos on the 26, any silicone joiner on the inlet of the rear turbo sits about 3cm from the front dump, and quickly fails as other people have found out. To that end the guy I got the turbos off had welded on a set of plasma man clamps to the front with some pipes of a decent length to get them out of the area. To maintain a stock look however, I decided to get a set of stock gtr turbo's and scavenge their front housings, have them machined to suit and chucked on the front. I'm not 100% sure of the housings origin, as the wheels that were inside them originally were N1 size, though the rears were odd. Regardless, the turbo shop got them to fit with no issues, leaving this: Anyway, flash forward to having a rather broken engine. After bouncing around between options, chatting to some friends and reading around SAU I settled on a general build. Spool 2.8L stroker, 9.5:1 compression ratio. all the trimings for studs and gaskets unigroup 260 cams full head reco tomei oil pump Hi octane sump Hi octane crank trigger Quaife front diff nismo coppermix competition twin plate Fuel system to be determined... but big The goal of the setup is to have a car that's a jack of all trades (and good at none I guess ). Something that will be fine on the street, and look stock, hence the twins, but something that can go to a track day, and while not be at the bleeding edge of competitiveness, something I can have fun with, but not break, hence the oiling mods. The turbo's have a flow potential greater than -5's, but do love big boost so i'd expect the car to be running 30+ PSI. That being said at that pressure -5's are capable of 450kw, so, in theory, with everything going well, its feasable I might see that much power. Time will tell. Would i have been better off with -9's? time will also tell there Anyway, once it was decided on what I was getting, the orders went out and parts started rolling in. First from just jap More boxes arrived, this time from Sydney More goodies inside. Sump extension, crank trigger kit and cam cover baffles Should stop the oil from moving around on the track I also got some overnight parts from Japan, tomei oil pump and greddy oil cooler parts. My old cooler was undoubtedly full of bearing, and I wanted something that would fit in. Additionally, the existing thermostat block i had setting infront of the diff wasn't exactly in a great spot and the new sump would get it in the way. However i incorrectly assumed the greddy cooler was the same size as the old Earls japan cooler i had (shorter so it could fit in easily under the passanger headlight), only to find it was the same size as pretty much all others coolers. Oh well. I could have got the full gtr kit for an extra 400 bucks, but I can reuse my hoses somewhat, and make brackets and air guides for much less. sump got welded up by Jfab. I literally only just now realised the angle that the driveshaft tube and sump base sit on compared to the engine block due to its mounting angle. Heh. I also got something from Racepace in victoria that is probably classed as more of a... want than need... item, but to heck with it, it sounds really good on a Friends car. I have quite a collection of front pipes now.... Bottom are what was on the car, where the front turbo was only a 2" for some reason. picked up some 2.75" to 3" ones, second from bottom. There's also an aborted attempt at the equal length ones I picked up with the turbos. Picked up a HKS exhaust as an interim. May not be big enough, but it was cheap and i'll get the flange modified to fit a bigger cat, ready for a bigger exhaust in future when required. Also got the cam covers painted up That's the future caught up to unfortunately, so updates will now slow to a crawl. Engine is still curently being build, there's been a rather large delay on pistons and I still don't have a more concrete date than a few weeks. After that there's the work involved with bolting up all the bolt ons, putting the engine in, attaching everything, getting it running, deciding on a fuel system and just getting it running. Lot of work ahead, any comments or suggestions would be welcome.

Don't forget a bespoke plenum adaptor and new exhaust manifold if you want to keep twins, plus oil feed. Still cheaper than vcam though

Note, as the front diff is in the sump... which isn't removable unless you pull the entire engine out*, and given you need to strip the diff out of it to do the extension, its very advisable to do the front diff upgrade when you've got it apart. The rear, however, takes about 15 minutes to get out, hence my comment of doing it at a different time. Just bleed the A-LSD system if you feel its performance isn't up to it, any air in there really makes it play up i'm told.

I installed an oil kit with thermo on my engine and never even thought to prime it, but didn't get any issues, maybe its something else? I mean, even if it wasn't all out by the cranking you did, the amount of oil being pumped through the partial opening, (assuming it was there?) when the engine was idling and still not up to temp would easily have pushed it all out. The pumps move a crapload of oil remember!

Site note, i hate it when people use fancy pants... catchy? words like delta, dashboard (for a report) etc in normal speak. seems so wanky.

Starter plus flywheel plus bellhousing to do a compression test?