sneakey pete

Have a Quaife front diff center sitting at my feet as we speak, doesn't look that much larger. Proof will be once i get it out i suppose.

I've picked a compression ratio of 9.5:1 also...

Not sure i could get away with 1.5bar for when I need to run the car on 98

108 octane race ethanol and see how she goes. just turn the timing back, who cares if its making any power. 3 bar!

I don't like the tone of screamer pipes, much prefer the tone and sound of it coming out of an exhaust. speaking of gates, I should probably get some 15psi garrett actuators for my turbos instead of using the 10psi tomei ones shouldn't i?...

Never gave the operation of a stock item much thought, just blocked it off on my old gts-t as i had a suspicion they were leaking. Probably unfounded. Are you saying that they perform differently from the general setup of an aftermarket item?

what makes you think its a good upgrade? Note, GTR BOV's are entirely different in setup. Note i sad BOVs. Not 100% sure but they might be a smaller size than a the single item from a gts-t. Secondly, its something that opens up to let air out. Why do you need to upgrade your existing one? Thirdly, yes you can run to atmo and with map should be minimal issues. Except legal ones.

That'd be logical, max heat is max you want into the turbo, so thats measuring it as close as the turbo inlet as possible. Not sure how much the temp would drop through the runners, but i doubt it'd be much so perhaps wouldn't matter much where you measured it?

Oh i forgot about the fun bundle that the A-LSD is.

Could be worn out attessa and diffs meaning you're effectively doing single preggers

Just put in not decades old stock coils?

You'd have some of the most chilled out power steering out there. May i ask, what was the reason you decided to move the trans/PS cooler, and put the oil in its place? Id have thought oil on the side would be better, as it would be a lot hotter than the trans that it replaced and would get cleaner airflow and not heat up the radiator? Maybe i'm overthinking it.

Hi Guys, Got some spare bits from my build floating around, need them gone for space for new bits. Located Brisbane, pickup preferred but should be able to post some stuff. Feel free to make me an offer. Autobarn88 hardpipe intake kit: $150 modified to have BOV return to both turbos and brackets to suite Z32's but one is cracked (Rb25 ones form superhcheap will replace this easy), Can be used with normal AFM's with the right joiner. PWR oil cooler: $200 Good condition, never used Grex oil filter relocation kit: $150 never used, hose has been lost, doesn't come with it. Stock R32 intercooler: $100 Aftermarket intercooler: $100 exeddy hyper twin clutch pull: $1000 Condition good, used approximatly 20000km/2 years, minimal launches/drag days. Good condition, lots of meat left on friction material, welcome to inspect ask for specific info/pictures. R32 Rb26 stock pull type clutch: $100 Seems like there's a good amount of meat left on it, flywheel is good. might help someone get out of a pinch. Tomei ARMS M7655 turbos: $??? Used approximatly 20000kms/2 years. Was making 300awkw's at 20PSI with E85 on a stock engine. Turbos come on their own. No lines, no fittings. The bad: engine injested about 2L of coolant. Unsure on bearing condition. At the moment havn't got them inspected, make me an offer if you want to take the plunge. Will get them look at in the future otherwise. Tomei expereme dump pipes: $500 Good condition, standard finish. R32 rb26 longnose crank: $400 condition as per pictures. Welcome to inspect or ask for specific info/pictures.

I'd like an extra inch.. Wait what are we talking about again? I really do like the sound of those Kakimoto catbacks but i'm not sure 3.5" is going to cut it for ~380-400awkw. Would hardly want to be spending big bucks on one only ot find i need to sell it also.

Mounted mine sideways as that was the best way to have it for my particular setup over in the passenger side front bar region. Not a fan of squeezing a cooler in infront of the radiator, plus my P/S and aircon stuff is already there.

its CVT only everywhere. Every review i've seen of the subaru CVT has been along the lines of "i didn't know a CVT could be good" etc though...

Doing mine at the moment, that picture shall be useful for me also, thanks. Its a hard one with the diff upgrade if the budgets are marginal. It is a big chunk to add do your budget, but then again its another few thousand bucks to pull the engine to do it again in the future.

My main complaint about these are that they decided to call them X, and not purple. Have not really had a chance to test mine out properly, put them in, drove 2000km, did PI (possible oil starvation issues yay) then did a headgasket. The drive down was pretty comfortable i'd have thought considering they're 10/6kg springs, but that's everyone preference and i think i may have higher tolerance than others. the car felt controlled at PI once i'd got tyre pressure set right and fiddled with the damping. Of course i had nothing to compare it to but by the end of the day I hadn't found the limits. Not sure if that's a good thing or bad thing. With any luck i'll have the car back running out at QR again in a few months and will be able to make a somewhat comparison to my old shocks, though I last drove on there with them in July, and the cars engine and drivetrain will now be... different.

I've got mine out I'll grab photos if I remember

Have you thought about trying a spool or nitto crank shaft they may be che.... Wait what, LHD skyline!??

You may be able to get them quicker from a specialist bolt store if you have an example to give them that you can steal from someone else

Still think this is the best way to do it. Remember you're not actually making any calculations based off of the reading, just looking at the reading to stop the show if there are any drastic changes in it, so really anywhere between filter and reg is going to do that job.

Don't have to worry about the saddle as I have a nice old school flame trap with the 32. Even with a 33/34 the surge tank return would be able to take care of that i'm sure? reading up a bit more of the fuellab manual, it looks like ECU control should be possible, just need to figure out what variable to use as the control. Map is an option, target it to be somewhat ahead of the curve at all points and it should be able to keep up perhaps. TPS could still work i'm sure. while yes, at 100%TPS and 2000rpm you are only going to need 25% of the fuel, however you aren't going to be in that condition for more than a second so i'm not too worried about short bursts when its flowing overkill. As long as its not flowing less than I need at any point.

Would it be possible to get one cut through the middle of the cylinder? ie between the valves. Would make for an interesting comparison

IO expander or the haltech plugin itself has pulsed digital outputs, presumably that could be used to send a signal to the fuel-lab pump based on TPS? Or am I barking up the wrong tree. (writing this with a flu, after a 18 hour day with little sleep the night before, so i could be getting this all the wrong way around.) I know the fuel-lab regulator has a 0-5V output but i think that may just be for gauge purposes not the signal to the pump. Regardless, any feedback people have would be good. If one did this, after a bit of messing around one could theoretically have the pump duty controlled by various TPS measures, which obviously wouldn't be keeping the pump running at its absolute minimum amount for a particular flow rate as the reg would, but it would would at least be better than a 600lph pump running full blast when you're just cruising down the highway. Would probably avoid the fuel pressure spike issues also, as there would be no seeking caused by the pump, its operation speed isn't set by its output. I'm aiming for a ~400kw mark with around 30psi of boost. From what I've seen the flow rate on the walbro's will drop off too much at those sort of pressures (73.5psi) for a single in-tank to supply it. Could drop the rail pressure but that would require finding larger injectors, 1600cc's perhaps, which brings in other issues so i'm not really liking that option. Additionally, i've got a walbro 460 in there right now that is playing up. Isn't supplying enough fuel at 280rwkw, and seems to stop providing flow at all below about 1/4 tank (as if the sock is sucking shut, perhaps). General plan i've come up with from reading i've done tonight and in the past, ID1250's, stock rail, reg, hardlines, piss off the fuel filter. Custom under-car surge tank in place of the hicas pump with pre and post inline filters, fuellab 42401 pump with speed control off the TPS, and a lift pump, probably a DW or something that has a modest amount of flow. Don't want to over do it and pump too much heat in but at the same time don't want to be draining the surge in a lap around the track. Main concern I have is noise. I've been in a car with one of these pumps mounted to an undercar surge tank and it was loud. However, i'm thinking with a combination of rubber mounts, and a cover over the pump and sound deadening foam inside i might be able to bring it down to a more reasonable level, plus the fact I still have sound deadening in my car may help. Anyway, that's my ramble, any feedback on any or all of it is welcome!