Daleo

ZOMG! Sexy spec Dragonz! Is this yours?

Yeah, never looked back once I could insure with Shannons I think they dudded me because I was young and naive; the assessor saw an opportunity to shaft me, so he did. I'd be willing to bet; the at fault who destroyed my car didn't get the raw end of the pineapple though. I couldn't afford to argue, so I took the money and started saving my pitful apprentice wages and got on with it. But I won't forget. I'm sure there are plenty of glowing recommendations for NRMA; they can't be that big without paying out most of the time. My partner and I have had a couple of really bad experiences with two mainstream insurers; all have been not at fault claims, and the stunts they will try to pull really opened my eyes. The common denominator for us has been that BOTH vehicles have been with the SAME insurer; so they can't just stick it to another insurer. They have to absorb ALL the loss. This is when the games begin. Even after the other drivers has been charged at the scene; and I had police reports to prove it; they still refused to waive our excess. I won't lay down and take it now; but man, did we have to fight. I might seem a little bitter; but I think it's good to let people know. If I'd known; I would've been with Shannons YEARS earlier. Cheers, Dale.

Didn't it go overseas to some guy who was then drafted into the Kalathumpian cat herders guild, and then was deposited in the nest of an Upper Tibetan fighting Owl? I'm pretty sure it's just in transit; Northern Mongolian Carrier Mice are not known for their speed through the frozen wasteland of Whothef**kknowswhere...

If you need a hand with drop off, or pick up; I'm happy to help, they're not far from me. Maybe they might be interested in a group buy, or at least a discount on a few sets? Cheers, Dale.

Fantastic! I truly admire your patience and dedication. Love a Zed.

So let's get this straight; NRMA cannot give an market value at the time of issuing insurance, and set the premium accordingly, then honour that price at claim time; but they can easily asses the value of a car once it's been damaged and devalued? What if my car is a burned out hulk or has been flattened by a massive tree at the time of the claim? What if my car is stolen; never to be seen again? How do you propose to assess the condition of my flawless paint that is destroyed or my $5000 set of wheels that are a pool of molten metal on the ground? Can't? More like WON'T. NRMA assesed a car of mine back in the day; over a month after it was damaged and had been sitting in a holding yard. The assesor said; "Geez, it's not very well taken care of, it's all scratched and dirty" No shit dumbarse! It's been out in the weather for a month after being rammed through a barbed wire fence by 4WD! This led to the assesor downgrading the AGREED value of my car by half due to its "Poor Condition"! They then offered to refund the difference in premium (less stamp duty and other fees) The big hearted lugs! NRMA does not like enthusiasts or modified cars; they like mums & dads who drive shoeboxes. I will never give NRMA the time of day after their shoddy treatment of a blameless young guy, who had his pride & joy wrecked by a stupid old man. They just wanted to dodge the payout. The ironic thing is; the young people they screw over now, are the same people they'll want to insure in 20 years time... Guess where they'll be? Shannons has taken me at my word every time I've made a claim; they've bent over backwards to help, and even followed up months down the track to ensure I was satisfied with the repairs, their service, and even to see if my partner was recovering ok because quote; "We saw the pics of your car and were concerned for the driver." Go advertise somewhere else champ; your employer sucks.

Faaark! You surely dodged a bullet there Iain; could've been a disaster. Specialised Brake & Clutch in Penrith made me a set of Goodridge ADR legal lines for my last car; they were around $80-$90 each. All pressure tested to ensure things like that don't happen.

Here's hoping you get it sorted mate; how many ladders have you walked under?

Yep, sounds like Coppercoat or similar. Any nickel or copper based high temp anti seize compound works quite well. Sets of replacement shims; http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/190431872363?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649 The critical ones to have are the corner shims (centre of pic); these are the ones that stop the pads knocking around in the caliper. They go on the thrust edge of the pad.

+1 for Y pipe after swaybar. I can refer you to someone who does custom swaybars; they could accomodate your request, but at $300+ you'll want to be sure. 2 tips would look quite good; and 2 mufflers make it easier to damp sound & still have good flow. Look at how many factory setups run twin outlets now; Liberty , Outback, hell even the Mazda3 does it and they're not dummy tips either. IMO, I hate hotdog resonators; they're cheap & crappy. They are shocking for flow, and the packing usually burns out after a few months. They are the cheats way out of building a properly designed exhaust with quality resonators and mufflers. Leave them for the Mirages and VN Commodores...

I used the shims in my last GTR brake upgrade; no squeal, but that could easily be pad related. As has been mentioned; you can paint on a compound and most decent performance pads now have an anti-squeal compound on the backing plate. I've heard people rabbit on about how they reduce heat transfer to the pistons; but thats bollocks.

Very nice! That is a really nice package with the 350Z rims; colour, ride height, all spot on. The Aero looks so nice in Gold; almost as nice as Black... I'm still torn; not really sure about the Aero skirts on my Black; they look so good on the light colours, but on black they just look heavy. Maybe I need to get hold of some PM skirts; more pumped than the stock ones, but less than the Aero. Hmmm, might need to perve on Alex's at the Stag Anniversary... I'm with Cam; a dump & mid pipe with a high flow cat will really wake it up. Exhaust volume won't really change; but you do get a nice burble once the restriction is gone.

Those Kinetix ones look as flimsy as shit; and there's nothing to stop the heim joint pulling straight out of the cup. No gusseting, not good enough. I believe the red ones use an OEM ball joint pressed into the sliding plate. But they are heim jointed at the body end, so that's a slight negative, in my book. Alternatively, SuperPro make urethane bushes with an eccentric bolt to use in the factory arms; for all but the most extreme lowering, they would be the best option.

Lol Scotty, I should have referenced you in there mate; it's been your hard work and development that has brought this information to light.

Work hardening. To correct this, the material must be heated and annealed. Damn hard to keep the paint on once you start using fire though...

If not, I'm pretty sure House of Colour do a "flatting" agent that you mix with paint to acheive a matt or satin finish.

He already had it; but he's just minding for me until Sunday... Bloody Nismo; why can't they just make something that I DON'T want?

If the bearing assembly starts to fail; the exhaust turbine will be able to make contact with the housing; thus breaking the fragile ceramic blades. I don't think any of the failed turbos have actually dropped the exhaust turbine; a-la RB turbo; only smashed the blades. The reduction in heat buildup around the exhaust turbine by fitting the dump pipe, far outweighs any risk of failure due to excessive shaft speed IMO. I fitted the dump by itself on a factory exhaust and I'm convinced it makes the turbos life easier. You are limited in a standard configuration to around 14/15psi anyway; due to the restrictor in the wastegate line. Even with a full 3" system and 100cspi cat mine won't go over 15psi.

Take your VIN number to a Nissan dealer. They'll have to order the gasket regardless, nothing else is a match. Cost is around $29- $30.

Size is up to you, but they have to be the same sizes front and rear. Even theoretically perfectly matched rolling dia staggered sets seem to cause issues with the ATESSA system. If you can; fit a set of matching dia wheels/tyres, and see what happens.

Check threads on differing tyre diameter for clues on your driveline shudder.

Looking the goods there! I'd be willing to bet those staggered tyre sizes are the root of you driveline shudder. They're a no go on these cars...

I must be missing something crucial here. Correct me if I'm wrong, the cruise control is basically looking for a set number of pulses from either the ecu speed signal, or a magnetic pick up. If the car came on boost and started to wheelspin or accelerate wildly, this would manifest in an increase in pulses; exactly what the cruise control is there to correct. Would this then not result in the cruise control releasing the throttle; thus eliminating the problem? Or is it more a case of the speed that the cruise control reacts? Surely you guys aren't driving cars with so much power and response that they break into spontaneous wheelspin at 110km/h in top gear? I would have thought an auto would actually be more of a risk for "surging" due to their ability to kick down a couple of gears unaided and end up on boost; versus a manual which will be more likely to labour a little. When driving cars with cruise, I tend to give a little manual throttle on the lead up to a decent incline; to help it along, as they often fall off the torque curve before realising they need to increase the throttle opening to maintain the set speed, by which time speed has dropped by 10 -15 km/h. This is when you tend to see cruise control making aggressive throttle adjustments.

+1 for Informeter. All your factory sensors output to the display, and you can add on temp & pressure senders for additional on screen info. The screen can be configured in a number of different ways, you can set audible alarms and you can even record data if you wish. Plus; you don't have to have a gaudy bunch of dials all over the place.

How good is this? Come on Sunday, and let's have some sun please?