Daleo

This doesn't really work on M35s

Your second quote is a clarification; this is the post I was replying to. Peace, Dale.

Only at your context. When did 500hp become ordinary? I think 500hp in a wagon does make it a bit of a monster; but that's just me.

Of course it isn't. I don't know why you bother with all these pointless mods Scotty...

Nice one mate.

No wonder you hit your mates car; if all the controls for your car are being operated from another vehicle! Your mate must be stoked with you right now...

Nothing wrong with having a go mate. If you decide to upgrade the bar to a Whiteline, let me know; I should be able to match the GB price. Cheers, Dale

^^^ +1 I've had these since I used to build big diesel engines years ago; had to lock wire every damn bolt & nut. Great tool to have.

For starters; Double your budget. At least. How much are you planning to do yourself? A custom made Carbon fibre roof and attendant mounting structure? I'd say that would be all of your original budget right there. You are right; nothing is impossible. The question is; can you afford it? I would suggest you go and talk to a race engineer or a rod shop that does a lot of custom steel fabrication. If you are serious (and they'll be able to tell ) they'll be able to outline the issues that will cause problems, and also the costs. Go from there. And when you start; do a build thread for everyone to follow.

I just finished running a Group buy for just this purpose; http://www.skylinesa...-bar-group-buy/ Response was a little underwhelming. Not everyone has the dollars at the time; that's life. Also I was trying to help, rather than shamelessly self promoting; which I now appear to have failed at.

Yep, it should be fine with some new copper washers. If not, the area will need to be spotfaced to give a nice flat mounting surface.

Yep, they sound great. Vague post is vague.

Alex, did you use new copper washers on the banjos? I've fitted several sets of Sumitomos using banjos, rather than flares (as per std) no leaks, no issues. With the taper seat gone; the banjo shouldn't bottom out. Wash the residual fluid off with some soapy water and see if it reappears.

The lack of penetration around that weld on the right is not something I would be okay with as an experienced welder; especially if it was going on someone elses car. At the very least, I would've ground a taper on the stud, and countersunk the hole to ensure I could lay a decent bead and have some weld left when it was ground back. If I did it with my TIG; you wouldn't need to grind; the weld would lay flush anyway. From the first section I've bolded and coloured red; "in this position it will take an upwards compression force, not any shear forces which will threaten the integrity of the bolt or its welds." This is totally incorrect! In a corner; one side of the bar is pushing up and the other is pulling down with equal force. So the mounts are alternately in tension AND compression. Don't believe me? Loosen (Don't remove) one "D" mount; and go for a drive around the block; you won't need to listen too hard for the massive bang you'll hear as the loose mount pulls away from the body, then belts back into the subframe. For the second; "heating the bar to extend the 'reach' of the arms would be what would weaken the bar." The bar is a tubular length of spring steel; I've never seen anyone cold bend Spring Steel, you have to heat it to bend it; other wise it'll just spring back, or fold in half. as long as it's heated correctly, and re-tempered, there should be no issue. Also the plate you've added does twist the arm "along the beam"; if you will. and this, I believe, will fatigue the tab, as you are concentrating all the load on the tab. With the rubber link bushes; this load is much less concentrated; and twists only on the long centre section of the bar; where it's supposed to. Cheers, Dale. Lol; I figured the bushes and bare metal were just trial fitting phase; but had to have a stir!

This is a pic of the W62544 kit; And the one with the yellow bushes is the KCA347 kit. Quoted form the Tech document; http://www.whiteline.../206_KCA347.pdf Fitting instructions for KCA347 Rear Camber Kit to suit most performance Nissans. KCA347 is a rear camber kit to suit the rear of most performance Nissans. This includes Silvia S13-14-15, Skyline R32-33 and 300ZX Z32. It is required on most standard cars and is critical on any lowered application due to the large amount of base negative camber and the small amount of available adjustment. Excessive negative camber reduces acceleration and braking performance, increases tyre wear and contributes to the rear feeling "loose" and nervous when cornering. Each kit contains 4 bushes designed to replace the inner and outer upper control and radius arm as pictured. Use 1 kit only to replace inner 4 busheson both sides of the car to achieve a reduction of 0.75 degrees in base camber. Use 2 kits to replace all 8 inner and outer bushes to achieve a 1.5 degree reduction. Please read complete instructions before commencing work. 1. Check wheel alignment and work As you can see there is no mention of the traction rod. Your specialist is correct. From my understanding; traction rod adjustment is a fairly complicated adjustment; usually involving removing the spring and swinging the suspension through it's full range to fine tune the adjustment.

Interesting piece of lateral thinking Ruby , well done. A couple of things; With the chassis mounts; the welds for your studs don't look to have much penetration. I can see the gap around the stud where the weld has been ground back. If the weld fails; there's nothing stopping the stud pulling through the plate. Did you consider using 10 or 12mm plate and using a grade 8 or 10 countersunk screw into a threaded, countersunk hole in the plate? That way the plate and the bolt are taking all the load rather than a weld that looks like it might just pull free? A couple of flats ground on the tapered head would give you enough area to lay a couple of small fillet welds to lock the screw in position without compromising the strength of the screw. They would also sit level with, or below the surface of the plate. There's no way the stud can pull through the material this way. I don't think 6mm is nearly thick enough to take the load you are applying to it; regardless of what you're engineer is saying. an upgrade to 4140 plate or similar would also be advised. For the sake of a few millimetres of material thickness; I'd go for excessive, rather than "adequate". Two pieces of plate that size will weigh barely 500 grams. I've worked as a Fitter for 20 years now, in heavy industry and now in the Pharma industry and I always over spec load bearing components by as much as material thickness and clearance will allow. The other concern I have is the torsional load you are applying to the arm of the Sway Bar; and in particular to the flattened mounting tab of the Bar. I believe the long term consequence of the twisting force being applied to the tab will result in its failure The straight edge of the plate you've bolted to the Sway Bar tab will become a point of localised stress and will fatigue the bar; thus breaking it. For the trouble you've gone to; I'd have asked a spring maker or boilermaker to heat the bends and spread the arms of the bar then re-temper the bar. That way you could pull straight on the bar link mounting points. Not trying to put you off, but fatigue is a gradual process, that is almost invisible until the component reaches the point of failure. Keep an eagle eye on it please. A new set of link rod bushes wouldn't go astray either. Cheers, Dale.

Suede wheel is lovely on the hands; very soft. Nice in summer, especially if you've got sweaty paws. Had one for so long I actually wore holes through the leather. I miss it.

I'll be buying it; sales will determine it's success and ongoing availability. There is a tough looking Zed and 510 coupe in there as well

Wasn't able to make it down tonight; had to start work early.

Mine has pressed sheet supports in it too, maybe to add some rigidity?

But if you look in the picture, there's a set of 4WD front lower mounts. I'd imagine you can just wind the fork mount (2WD) off the front damper & swap it.

Yeah, I should clarify; as little droop as these shocks allow; which is still around 4ish inches. I agree with you regarding droop helping handling but with the length of these shocks, I was actually more concerned about getting the shock running resonably central in it's stroke to allow a good amount of compression travel without bottoming out the piston assembly.

Ok, I get you; I already run my shocks as short as they can go to minimise the amount of "droop" available as the shock extends. Thing is, on mine, at the height I run, the spring is barely captive. Increasing the "preload" wouldn't make a difference on mine. Perhaps my springs are slightly shorter than yours?

Stupid is stupid.

I saw that last night; what a winner the business owner turned out to be...