Daleo

Pretty easy, but I also made a Stainless sheetmetal mount that entirely supports the cooler and also ducts air into it. I mounted mine on the extruded bumper reo with some nutserts rather than hanging it from the rad support. I'd buy their optional reducer fittings (2 off) and I'd also go and buy some spiral wrap to protect the hoses across any sharp edges. Some people use convoluted tubing because it's cheaper, but it's much harder to trace a split hose once its fully covered. The way I ran my hoses (no cutting holes) I needed around 2 1/2 metres of hose. Go to a hydraulic specialist for the spiral wrap ($20 /metre) and also for Auto trans line. I use method 2; for the reasons Andy mentioned and also it reduces the heat load you drop into the radiator, as it will have shed a lot of heat through the cooler first.

I do; and I DO SeewhatIdidthere? LOL!

If you are finding the ride too hard your shocks may be stuffed. Shocks that have leaked; effectively have no damping for part of their stroke, and are travelling uncontrolled until they start damping making them extremely harsh. Or if they are bypassing internally you will have very little bump damping; this also can make them basically bottom out . The shocks in M35 Stageas are renowned for dying very early, I would bet the same applies for yours. Look into replacement shock options.

Thing is, if it was a crack in the floor; it wouldn't stay there afterwards, it'd leak back out. If it is a crack; you drill the ends of the crack to stop it propagating any further, then get it welded up. I don't believe that this is the problem. Remove all the trim you can from the floor area, then start hosing the bejesus out of one individual area at a time; then check for water ingress before hosing the next suspect area. It's the only way.

This is what I have on my car, very neat unit.

Just use a cutting compound, and keep going until you get the finish you're after. The clear coat on these is far too thin for wet sanding IMO.

Well that's a great footnote to your issue, the creator of the car is prepared to stand by it . Well done.

Where does the plastic tube for the rear window washer run? Could it be that?

A pharkload of Stageas in a dimly lit underground carpark tonight; was good!

Nice find, I popped this up a week or so ago, http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/358634-which-turbo-for-vq25-det/page__st__20__p__5731176__fromsearch__1#entry5731176 There is some amazing development work on this car

Tough! Love how a set of rims can change the whole look of a car . Side on shot?

Nice one Craig! Good to see everyone too!

Enough room for Pizza's too?

True, one day...

I like to think of mine as a "stripped out, performance lightened version" thank you . Wouldn't mind a sunroof some days though...

Try another dealer if you can? Might be a bit harder for you in Canberra I realise. Some are really helpful, because they actually LIKE cars, and enjoy the challenge; like my local guy ,(he actually gets excited, because every time he looks for parts for me, he learns something new) others are just lazy, I think. They can all access the parts listings, some just choose not to.

I think it's really dependent on colour; Black would work fine, White; a bit like a fridge. Silver looked ok, but I've seen a gold one, and I'd rather poke out my eyes than have to look at it again; bloody atrocious! Also as others have said, you'd have to butcher the bodywork underneath the plasitc so you can get the wheels out far enough to fill the guards properly.

Rudy, (can't remember his forum name) colour coded the body moulds on his silver ARX, saw it when we were at Eastern Creek Drags a while back; works quite well, but his flares were not shiny because of the textured surface of the plastic. You'd need to do a fair bit of Hi-Filling to smooth the surface to give an nice gloss. As for offset on an 8" rim, you want +30 offset at absolute minimum. You could go +25, even +20 offset on an 8" rim with a 245 wide tyre, without any clearance issues or guard rolling.

Update! I've been in contact with my supplier, he has confirmed the bars are roughly 2-3 weeks away! We are now 2 weeks from the closure of the Group Buy. I currently have 6 complete kit payments, and numerous payments for link and mount sets. I have almost finished the first 10 sets of Heavy Duty Stainless mounts. I should have several sets to show at the Sydney meet up this weekend. Again, to those who've paid already; thanks for your support! To everyone else; looking forward to hearing from you. Cheers, Dale.

I might be up for a weekday Putty run used to do it regularly on my Bike before the demise of the Halfway House. Mondays & Fridays are my best days. I've got a GSXR1000; no stupid R1 here...

Lol, nah thats ok... Postage would be a killer. Didn't see that you'd bought a new one actually, but now you've got plenty of time to sort it out as a spare. I know what you mean with the VL Bosch starter though; I ended up repairing my Hitachi one because I hated the sound of the straight cut gear drive in the Bosch, versus the helical gears in the Hitachi, so much quieter.

Whilst not arguing your point about spring quality, the spring weight "number" that people are quoting; is just a measurement of how many kilograms of force is required to compress the spring a certain distance in cm or mm. As for quality, there are definitely different grades of spring steel, and also country of origin has a part to play (Chinese; generally garbage in consistency & uniformity) and whether progressively wound (tightly wound at one end and looser at the other) or linear, definitely changes the "feel" and behaviour of a spring. Also regarding the percieved "quality" of BC's etc; I've been using BC's for over a year now, the damper rates and spring rates are well matched, the construction, finish of machining and coatings is excellent, and there are numerous threads on other forums of specialists who've pulled them down to inspect their internals and they've come away impressed. While I'm not suggesting that they're comparable to the icons like Ohlins, Drummond and others, they are also vastly different in price. There's little justification for using such an expensive product in a "Street" car, and although people do (which I have no problem with) I think it's a mistake to look down on so called "budget" set ups, just because they don't have a premium name. For the money you pay for BC's; you'd struggle to buy better without another thousand dollars, IMO. Oh, and Lol @ "Kid-pan"; that's where I'd be...

Pull it apart, remove the plate holding the brushes, I'm willing to bet that one, or all will be worn and not making proper contact. Take the plate to your local auto elec, get him to solder on new brushes (the leads are very thick; a home soldering iron won't do it) go home, clean & rebuild starter; happy in the knowlege that you just spent $40-$50 instead of $180 and the end result is exactly the same.

Done, see you then

Good option!