Daleo

Oh, BTW, please be sure to post back with the cost of your engine rebuild.

This will be a massive, I repeat MASSIVE pile of shit. When was the last time you saw a 40hp gain for $25? Exactly. Still it's got a money back guarantee; what could possibly go wrong? Exactly.

Eeeeeeeeexcellent...

Yeah, not a fan...

It seems like the anecdotal "My mate did it and got away with it" and the age old "Cops don't know anything"about imports" is the thrust of your argument; EVERYBODY has a mate that got away with everything. I was the guy that got away with nothing; EVERY TIME I did something, I got nailed, so I just had to stop doing stupid shit, otherwise I'd have lost my license. Trust me when I tell you, more than you think know what imports are, the Green Valley HWP centre has walls LITERALLY covered with pictures of P plater illegal vehicles and illegal mods; just so police can familiarise themselves with them. You're having yourself on if you think they don't know. You're telling this guy to disregard GOOD advice (not always the most "fun" I realise), follow the rules then do it when you're allowed to; and do something bloody stupid. As if having P's on your car doesn't make you enough of a target; lets add an illegal vehicle... Rant over. Back on topic; Slip on a pod, remove the cats, get a shitarse loud exhaust and some ugly arse chrome wheels. Then you'll be fined and defected off the road for driving an illegal vehicle on your P's and I won't have to worry about an uninsured pinhead running into me in a car he cant handle. REAL ADVICE; Put the 350GT in the shed, go buy a cheaper P plate legal car, learn to drive, then go for your life once you have a full license. If you need advice on mods for your V, check out the "V Series Skyline" section of the forum.

Lol, I'm not even going to start on the rest of the "facts" in this post, but I will address this one. I can't see any decent workshop dropping their quote to get the business of some pimply teenager with an arrogant attitude. Demand a cut price job, and you'll most likely get it; just not the way you expect. They'll rush, or use lesser quality materials to do the job to make up the shortfall. The other option you have in the highlighted situation, is to go to a reputable workshop that has a track record modifying vehicles like yours, ask their advice, then take said advice, and actually BUILD a long term relationship with a workshop you can now trust as you continue to modify. As your mods get more serious, most workshops will help you out with prices and labour costs because your repeat business is worth it. Unless of course you want to run all over town trying to scam workshops for a crappy discount. Cheapest isn't always "cheap' in the long run, if you know what I mean.

Correct me if I'm wrong; but the other bolt visible in your close up photo looks like it might be the one? If not, you definitely need a larger washer to spread the load. As for the repairer, contact your insurer and let them know how their money is being spent/wasted by the repairer in question. Given that most insurers have to guarantee repairs for life, they might change their opinion of that repairer. That broken glass would've been rattling around like a bastard; how did they expect to get away with it? Seriously 5 minutes tops, with a vacuum cleaner would've finished the job. Pissweak.

Me too, took a week of soaking to free the studs on mine. No issues in that time, but I didn't like the idea of the entire weight of the exhaust wrenching on the studs in the exhaust housing of the turbo.

+1 for new battery. Cars do all kinds of weird things when they don't have enough current to run their systems.

Remove the studs from the bracket that feed through the exhaust flange and break the spotweld holding it in place. The studs are sometimes seized, but a little WD or Penetrene, a soak, and a hammer blow will see them free. You'll need to grind out the radius in the bracket to clear the larger diameter pipe, but it'll fit fine.

No issues supplying enough fuel with the stock pump?

On the contrary; its obviously a substandard part, and clearly nothing to do with my/ your hands of cured meat...

My lid was also very brittle; I broke the tab off on mine, luckily I could glue it back on and it was fine. I thought it was my fists of ham that had caused the issue; glad I'm not the only one...

Definitely explains the reason. A small amount of blockage would cause issues. You learn something every day .

You may find that once it it being controlled by the ecu, it actually pulls closed. Most throttle bodies have an air bypass port to control idle, and the butterfly seals completely.

Plenty of different stuff available for 350Z/ G35 in the US (think Ichiba,etc), but going that way will actually REDUCE the wheel to guard clearance. Maybe shoot spoolin12 a PM, I'm sure his offsets must be close to this after the fitment of his Akebono Brake setup, due to the required spacers to clear the calipers.

Yes, and as you lower; they tuck in (negative camber) much tighter than the front. With a roll on the guard lip I'd say the rear is 15-20mm wider.

I wish I could, got to work tonight... Could be keen for some texi action though!

PM sent.

Unsure at this point, but because there's a paid order; now they can crack the whip on delivery. Tentatively, early May; but no guarantees yet, ok? I've still got several more sets of Upper Mounts to manufacture, so I'm going to be a busy fella. Again; thanks everyone for your support of this Group Buy. Cheers, Dale.

Bars are ordered.

Depends really; nipple pink, or dog dick pink?

Yeah, dunno Nick, it was a bit of an odd experience all round... Surprisingly open minded for bogans; guess you can't judge a book by its teeth. Pretty funny though, missus & I were laughing about it all weekend.

Pretty sure you can get the front bar on Nengun, or at least you used to be able to.

Never get tired of seeing your car Ben, blue is the pick of the colours IMO. Personally; I woudn't touch a thing