Daleo

My experience with Shannons with a written off car was that (in NSW) cars do not go on the WOVR if they are over 10 years old. This was directly from the assessor. The industry gives no farks for what they deem as "old cars", and it would essentially eliminate things like classic cars from being re-registered if they were damaged and repaired; regardless of the quality of repair. Yours will be a "financial" write off, and if you are sure of the terms & conditions of your PDS; enforce your right to retention of salvage, and if they look like going against it, inform them that you will contact the Insurance Industry Ombudsman. Follow through on any threat. Your insurance policy is a legally binding document; ALL PARTIES CONCERNED must abide by ALL of the conditions, not just the ones that benefit them. My last piece of advice to you is to remove the plates from the car and keep them. The registration is NOT a part of the vehicle; you paid it; it is what allows YOU to drive YOU car legally on the road. It belongs to YOU. If the car is written off; whoever possesses the plates, is the one that can claim the refund of the unused portion of CTP and Registration. If you have the plates, you can claim the refund, if they have the plates; they will take YOUR money. It isn't a lot of money, but it's the principle.

I don't think anything is going to change the decision at this point; but you never like seeing your property being needlessly damaged.

Farken lol!

That's bloody miserable. With that rear pillar damage; there is no way it will be repaired. What a shame.

Soooooo; it appears we're wagoneers now? I'd prefer Wagonista.

Yes, but you also need the board that runs the aircon; you cannot use the board from the Bose fascia

Kids are back this week; freedom returns.

There are freaking tonnes of us mate. Top bunch of guys, and we have a cruise and a chat pretty regularly. There's a bit of banter, so if you don't take things too seriously; there's a bunch or very knowledgeable owners, with some pretty modified examples. There's a bunch of FB groups, https://www.facebook.com/groups/17462900896/?fref=nf And this is the Sydney based one; https://www.facebook.com/groups/296526673815644/ The best resource for information is still this forum, and the nm35info forum.

You obviously haven't removed the suction pipe yet...

You could do the same with a 3" to 2.5" silicone reducer bend for a tenth of the price.

Gotta watch the "gearbox issues" with them; Makes the rods appear out the side of the block without warning...

78% is normal. You can scale it so it reads 100%, but I can't remember how.

Absolutely brilliant car; I love it. A reverse camera is a pretty easy mod; but you would probably be better off doing it as part of a head unit upgrade. Camera is very useful; no judgement here. Welcome to the forum also; heaps of useful info, and at pretty damn fine bunch of people too.

I'd be interested to hear more about the AEM ECU; PRT had a hand in tuning another Stagea a while back. Good luck; I hope the car is as good as it looks.

Aren't rears normally disabled when moving forwards? Unless they're being used for blindspot avoidance I guess. I'd rather a camera...

Buy a remote water temp adaptor block (goes inline on rad hose) then tap to suit your chosen fitting. Plumb line from bottom of swirl pot. Profit.

You can, but you'd be better off using 2.5" pipe; then splitting it and adding flat plate to the gap; not unlike what Scotty does with his dump pipes; to get some extra cross sectional area.

Intake will change bugger all. It's already metal; all you're doing in putting a bigger pipe down to the same inlet restriction.

I filed 2 flats on the shaft (just outside the dust boot) this allows you to hold the shaft stationary whilst tightening the nut. Using low strength loctite won't be an issue if you can hold the shaft Are you using the OEM style flanged nuts? The powdercoat may also be compressing beneath the nut if it has been applied thickly; maybe shave it down to allowe the nut to bite properly into the bar itself. You could also try a nyloc nut. With anything suspension related, I always do the final tensioning with everything at the running ride height, on ramps is ideal.

I was going to say; mine sounds nothing like that. That has a rasp that is completely absent from mine. Is there a cat fitted? With a sound meter phone app (no guarantee of accuracy) mine only registered 90dB at peak (free rev). But even allowing for error; there's no way known that it would be 107dB, I have mates with bikes around 104dB, and they are orders of magnitude louder than my quiet ol' Fuji.

Him & his roguish good looks...

The 3.7 looks to be a beaut engine; such a shame the sedan doesn't have a split/fold rear seat. I'd be all over one if they did.

I can help you with warranty on those dude; they're really fast to deal with.

The rears come with new linkages to accommodate the change to a blade adjustable bar. I've never had an issue removing the linkages on the front bar, and I've fitted at lest 10 sets of bars to R34 GT-t's. If you buy the BNK010 kit from Whiteline; it actually comes with brand new links for both bars. And it's miles cheaper than buying the bars individually.

The bonnet looks pretty similar when it's closed.