StealthX

Yeah no idea! try finding at least a car with the same engine (something infinity, cedric, cefiro, has gotta have close to a VQ25) and search eBay...

Yeah no idea! try finding at least a car with the same engine (something infinity, cedric, cefiro, has gotta have close to a VQ25) and search eBay...

Yeah the motorsport series are even better than the Stinger, more features and better resolution maps. the depth of tune is pretty amazing! Plus theyve got wideband input too, which makes them that much easier a to tune and analyse. I dont know about Volf computers, i didnt look into them much when i was searching... What engine is in your race car? Have a look around some forums and see which computer suits to your engine well, and what others have done...

Stinger 4424. I love it. Havn't had any dramas at all! It was a dream to install, got everything working first time, felt very compatible. Only thing is the electronic throttle fvcked up, but i knew what that was... Andrew from Hyperdrive has been doing it all, hes the one who recommended this ECU. From what I've seen/tuned/adjusted its great! The softwares easy to use, the datalogging more so, havn't had an inch of tune drift or anything wrong tune wise. That's more a credit to Andrew though... Why do you ask? I've heard a few ppl bag them out, but I'd use again!

First off, if your car's that rich, you'd have other problems, bad problems too. So rule that out... Was the gauge designed for use with the stock narrow band sensors? i.e not specifically for a wideband sensor? Double, triple check youve got the correct wire on the ECU, it sounds like you might've soldered on the wrong one. Try this also: put a volt meter on the sensor's wiring, and have a look at the voltage when the car's running. with your hand, crack open the throttle slightly and see if they change, that will make sure your sensors are infact, working.

Good to hear scott! Restored my faith in E-manages, a few people bag them out, but I reckon they do pretty good! Especially when they're set up like yours, taking full control of injectors/spark. Do you have an idle control valve or anything installed? The only problem I've got is I can't have the aircon on when I'm sitting idling warm, cos it doesn't recognise the extra load and bump up the idle, so it just stalls! lol So I'm left with a cold idle of 850ish and a warm idle of 1250...

Hey guys, up for grabs is a Genuine Garrett 1bar wastegate actuator. It's brand spankers new and never been used, the condition of the part number sticker should indicate that... I'm asking $110 + shipping they retail brand new for $120-$130. Or I'll do a straight swap for a genuine Garrett low pressure (7psi) actuator, the part number for that one should be 480009-9 instead of -6. PM me or call/msg 0424 438 501 Thanks!

Thanks mate! My new turbo is a 2860rs for what i need, 2817 and 3076 are too big...

FVCKEN OATHH!!!! My X-Trail took me days! Just couldn't get the frekin thing to budge! Hammer and screw driver on the tabs ended up doing the trick...

I'd cover the top of the engine, where the coils are, with a plastic bag, water can settle here around the spark plug holes and you def don't want this. Take the engine cover off (clean it while he's off ) then put a big bin liner or similar over the cam covers and in between, stuff your air intake with a towel/rag then everything else should be good to go, cos as you say, shit does get pretty wet in there when your driving along on a rainy day... Important though, make sure your car is left to thoroughly dry after, and is stone cold when you clean it. If the engine is hot, and you spray cold water on it, things can damage, easily

Hey. Update time... My turbo is well and truly shagged. Blowing more and more smoke by the day... Not to worry though! Mr. Garrett to the rescue: That's a 350hp GT2860rs with a 0.64 A/R. I'm predicting the response and midrange on the QR25 2.5L is gonna be off the scale. Hoping i can still make north of 250hp on not much more than 10psi. It's making 212hp on 11psi when it first got tuned, on a tiny, crappy VG30 turbo... Hopefully with a bigger one turbo ill pick up a bit extra due to better exhaust flow, and less charge heat will allow andrew to add in some decent timing as opposed to the <5 deg that ive got atm under load For the conversion, so far ive got: t28 and 5bolt dump flanges, gaskets, cooler pipe couplers, oil drain flange, oil fitting to fit existing line and GT28 turbo and water lines. From here all I need to do is: -rip off the old turbo and manifold -get t28 flange welded onto current manifold -get dump modified for 5bolt flange, where a 4bolt sits now. -modify oil drain to suit new turbo -install water lines and tee into heater hoses -source 480009 - 9 (7psi) actuator (stock one is for 13psi - too much for now) -install boost controller and set to 10psi -tune I'll post updates as i get them, cos THIS is what i should have done in the first place instead of this VG30 fail of a turbo...

copper and ally are both metals mate rust is probably coming from thermostat housings, radiator core or the heater assembly, its impossible to tell where its coming from!

I highly doubt it... S and R chassis are completely different...

BUMP - relocation kit sold pending payment. Oil cooler still available...

got any pics? i found a similar thing on my car, turned out to be the ambient temp sensor for my climate control, but i doubt that's what it would be for an R33...

Nothing like a thread full of love

Yeah likewise, looks like you do some quality work too! I had an idle that would vary between 2500-3000rpm depending on engine temp and vehicle speed (?) You've got a bit more of a headfvck going on with that auto box, but seams you've got it all figured out with the E-manage's output maps, but can they be configured to send out a signal dependant on load AND rpm i.e. a 3D map with 2 variables (rpm and load?) What are you using for engine load? MAP sensor? or stock MAF readings?

Fark, sounds tricky! Your e-manage plan should work pretty good I reckon. p.s. nice work on the throttle bracket too!

I did the same conversion in my X-Trail, I got fed up with that fvcking electronic throttle... You're right, it seams to have a mind of its own, especially when it comes to idle... I'm using an EMS stinger ECU which controls EVERYTHING when it comes to ignition and injection, so I didn't have to do anything in terms of electronics. Just installed the cable on the pedal and the throttle body on the intake manifold. No sensors, no wiring, I'm not even using a TPS... Works perfect... needed a tough up tune cos the SR throttle was smaller than the other one, but that's it. I'd highly recommend this mod if you are planning to do more in the way of engine computer and/or tuning later on. The fly-by-wire system works fine when its not touched at all, as soon as you start playing with ECU things, it looses it's mind. In your case Scott, go through the service manual and find some diagrams for wiring, see which systems take a signal from the throttle, then use the cable-throttle's TPS to send that signal to those systems, instead of the fly-by-wire throttle's TPS. Shouldnt have to muck around with the E-manage at all, just make sure the voltage from the TPS on the cable throt. is the same as what the electronic throt. would've sent out. Should be fine!

lol why is this in photography mate?? a local wreckers/import garage should help you out...

just start up your car with the fuel pump fuse disconnected, then wait for it to stall. crank it for a few seconds after that. now remove your coils and spark plugs. stick your tester in cyl 1 and crank for a few seconds under full throttle and get the reading. repeat for cyls 2-6...

hmm if you dont have a tuner near you then things get tricky... i wouldnt suggest you tune anything yourself. tuning is a very complex thing, youd need a shitload of equipment, then the knowledge which comes from 10+ years of tuning a car, to churn out a decent power FC tune on an RB26. you still didnt mention how big your injectors are... it its leaking, check the o-rings are the correct size and that you've installed them properly... where are you located mate?

Yeah, unless you want hot oil spraying all over your exhaust manifold, and a car that barely runs above half throttle. Doesn't seem like you're taking any of our advice here mate. Why did you start this thread then? Look at my username. I've turbo-ed a non turbo car and trust me, its neither easy, nor cheap.

Hey guys, I'm after a set of water lines to suit a disco potato, just need the fittings to suit, and a foot or so of lines, to tee into heater hoses. I'm located in Perth but I don't mind paying a bit of postage. Looking to pay up to $100 inc. postage. Anything considered. Call 0424438501, reply to this thread, or PM me... Thanks!

Save you pennies and go for an aftermarket engine computer... Worth it in the end, cos then you have endless upgrades. I'd suggest: Power FC is prob your best option but if not, try a Haltech, EMS or Microtech. Have a look through those company's respective web pages and see what suits your budget/needs. RE: injectors, depends how much power you are making, you didnt include any info on your power targets, boost levels, of size of your current (leaky) injectors. RB26s use top feed if im not mistaken, so you cant use SR ones, some nice nismo 550s or sard/denso 500s would go well with a Power FC. Find a tuned and speak with them, cos im sure that combo, of stock turbos, big injectors and power fc has been tuned many times before... Good luck!