scotty nm35

I have seen 400+kw on a few builds using stock manifolds, as long as you use e85 and possibly externally gate the turbo housing you will be fine. Get in the forced induction section and read as many threads as you can, there is more information in there than any other website or tech paper I have ever read, and it's all related to your particular engine, which makes it invaluable.

Are you talking about the dump pipe I assume?

The main issue is, usually when pushing big power there is other engine noise that is mistaken for knock by the ecu, then all timing drops out for no reason. Makes for interesting results, like over spooling the turbo, and glowing exhausts. The PFC still detects knock but only displays it, it doesn't drop to a low octane map like the Nistune. Any decent standalone ecu can be set up to drop into a low octane map, if that's what you are after. Personally I would want rid of it, as ethanol is rarely going to cause det anyway.It's more for petrol tunes on the edge.

I can make any piping you need if the car is here, but no location makes it hard to help. I have seen 500kw through a panel filter, and the stock airbox is already a cold air induction. The only thing you will gain is intake noise as above.

Not good Greg, just when we got it all sorted. Ah well, off to micolour tomorrow?

By the way, where is the graph? I want to see what area under the curve really looks like.

Don't worry Greg, you needed a new rear bar anyway, and you have a spare front bar...

Less exhaust restriction makes it easier to get the exhaust out, making the manifold pressure lower, meaning more boost and better engine flow with no other changes. If your AFM was out of resolution then it would definitely run lean, as there are no higher cells tuned to add fuel. I would be getting a retune just to make sure. There can be a huge change in engine flow due to simple exhaust changes. Other reasons for running lean could include running out of fuel flow for the extra airflow, even if the tune is compensated.

It's called Air/Fuel ratio for a reason. If you flow more air you need more fuel obviously.

Pull the plugs, I am guessing they are well fouled. Once you realise we are correct, you will need to re-fit the stock injectors and replace the plugs to get it started.

Depends how it's tuned really, but more exhaust flow requires more fuel, so why wouldn't it?

Try and get a 10 micron (or less) element designed for ethanol/methanol. Lately I have been using paper SX element filters, but stainless is fine. Mine are 30 micron stainless proflow filters, and I have had no issues with my fuel system in 4-5 years. I fitted an Earls one the other day, 30 micron stainless, it was of very high quality and not too expensive. Speedflow would definitely work well.

Make sure you spray brake cleaner into the thread holes in the block, and then blow them out with compressed air, they need to be clean and clear of oil/coolant before you bottom the studs out in the block. The L19's had an allen key in the top, to tighten the studs in first. They don't need to be tight as Ben mentioned. ARP torque settings and plenty of lube I agree with.

It will run a little rich with the stock ecu I am guessing.

I wouldn't suggest alloy lines, unless they are anodised. I have been running Torques UK teflon braided lines for years on my daily, without any issue. I had a lot of problems with the proflow teflon braided lines weeping from the fitting, ended up ditching them for the Torques gear, which is Aeroflow apparently. Personally I would be running the stock fuel lines and changing the rubber hoses for modern ethanol safe hose. I have seen 450 odd kw on ethanol through the factory GTT/gtst fuel systems, only the fuel filter ever seems to be an issue.

I change the muffler constantly on the road, as I use a Varex muffler. Going to a more restrictive muffler shouldn't change the tune that much, but any muffler that flows better will improve the airflow through the engine, possibly making it run leaner which is more of an issue. If you are running petrol, running a little lean would be bad and possibly cause det. If you are tuned for ethanol, it would likely make bugger all difference.

Usually happens due to running lean at idle as I found out last night, then again today with Greg's car. Cams would make it much more pronounced. You got widebands fitted guys? Why the hell not?

I would have thought you could make that power with what you have. The 460L e85 pumps flow 450ish kw at 13.8v, much more if you bump the voltage up. The stock lines would have done the job realistically. If you need a surge tank for the track that's a different story, just make sure there is no raw alloy in the system, it does eventually corrode. 6an return should be fine. 044's are noisy old designs. There are much better, modern pumps up to the task for external duties when the Walbro can't keep up. Something with PWM ecu speed control built in is probably your best bet.

I have already told you I can supply short 44mm tip to tip Xspurt 1000's, your choice if you want to go with them or not. Not an ev14, but the short Xspurt 1400cc eth/meth injectors idle perfectly and flow the numbers, just as I would expect. I would be going for those personally if you plan to run ethanol.

Nice find.

I had no issues pushing my coolant and oil to 145 degrees, other than the overflow bottle ended up overflowing. I will be running Evans waterless coolant if I ever take the Stagea to the track again. Most new cars run 100 degree plus on the road. My thermo fan doesn't even activate till 105.

Because rwd. I has point and shoot power. haha.

Boost controller off? But 40psi up the straight at Sandown felt pretty good...

KU36 were absolute crap compared to the AO48's I ran at the last few track days. I picked them up bloody cheap too.

Usually I would recommend to just run the hose through the block, probably best done with the thermostat out. I have always wondered if there was a flushing product around to remove the rust and convert it, similar to body rust converter, but I have yet to find one on the market. You wouldn't want that rusty crap blocking your new radiator anyway.