scotty nm35

You are welcome to my scrap, I have plenty of cooler pipes/stainless offcuts you can clean up for me.

The RE5 is a pos. If there was a reliable aftermarket controller available it may be a different story but for now... I'm going manual conversion.

Nothing wrong with the earlier gearboxes if properly maintained and driven properly. If you need a gearbox with triple syncro's you also need clutch lessons imo.

That attitude is probably why there are no pumps getting installed.

Anyone tracking a car that close to the knock threshold on petrol needs to get ready for a new tractor engine imo. Considering I made nearly 60kw more on the same turbo with an auto, and was nowhere near the knock limit... "Unfortunately?" what have you got against e85 anyway?

Even with the egr blocked off the valve overlap will cause carbon to build up around the intake valves, as there is no fuel spraying on them to keep it clean. It's the main issue with direct injection engine design.

You drive a diesel, your opinion is invalid.

I have done a few carbon cleans now, prick of a job. He will need to strip it down to the heads and clean the plenum and runners, then clean around the intake valves. A few of the valves will be open so he will need to rotate the engine to make sure no crud enters the bore when he cleans inside the head runners. I use gasket stripper soaking overnight and a toothbrush and scraper to loosen most of the carbon, then a large syringe to suck most of it out.

Sounds like plenty, but it obviously isn't flowing enough still. What did GCG say?

They are different sensors between the banks. It could just be the angle of the plug, or there could be more to it. Better to change them both if you suspect an issue. A faulty cam sensor should throw a code without affecting the engine's running I am fairly sure. More likely to be a crank sensor imo. If you can try unplugging the crank sensor and using just the cam sensors for timing control you may find it runs smoother, although slower from being in batch fire ignition limp mode.

I think the stock manifold is partially the reason the response is so good.

It's a red dyno.

It will, hence going stainless. You will need good stainless internal mufflers also, or they will rust out quickly.

Perhaps running the engine oil through the radiator isn't the best idea? Has it been tested previously? Nothing to re-engineer with external oil coolers, they are quite simple to mount and work quite well...

Has the wastegate port been opened up? Larger flapper? Take a look at the size difference between a Garrett GT wastegate and the stock one, then you tell me if they will flow similarly. Opening the flap further won't improve flow much. The issue is the massive CHRA shoved into the stock housings, now you need more wastegate flow to divert enough exhaust gas flow around the turbo.

How can it be off topic, people need to realise the stock manifold isn't the restriction it's made out to be. I must admit I was surprised with this result. I did the recent fab work on it, the car is still restricted by a hollow 3 inch cat in the 3.5 inch exhaust, return flow cooler, and the Z32 afm still holding back the 4 inch intake. There would be much more in it if the gearbox could take it... Not too laggy either imo.

Two guys I know work in the R+D department at Holden, I feel for them. Apparently they have been getting rid of employees in the department for a while.

Want me to send a crank sensor over for you to try? You may need to try re-aligning the crank sensor, sometimes they don't pick up the signal well unless you shim them to one side.

I just saw 430kw flow through a stock exhaust manifold, GTX35 at 26psi. Surely there are better things to spend your hard earned on?

I typed r33 tacho into Google for you, this was the first topic. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/144131-how-to-fix-tacho-r33-maybe/ Then these. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/388344-r33-gtst-manual-series-2-coupe-tacho-issue/ http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/341861-r33-tacho-head-f-k/

Yes, of course. I have fitted 5 or 6 to various cars since they were released, with no issues other than this one. Unfortunately getting warranty is subject to them agreeing there was an issue, $10 says they find "crud' in the pump, even though it had a sock firmly attached.

Just grab some stockie suspension, or borrow it for a few days?

From my experience, stuffing a GT3076 core into a stock housing will result in too much back pressure, forcing the bearings to load up from excess thrust load. Garrett cores aren't designed for this...

I haven't had a spring fail in over 5 years, that's a pretty good run. I can't see a 3mm piece of spring steel snapping in a hurry without outside forces these don't get, and it's easily replaceable anyway at little cost. The Turbosmart actuator looks good, although I would rather the kinugawa one with dual ports if it fits, as it is half the price. They also come with various bent/straight shafts to custom make it to suit. I am looking into this at the moment as it has been too long without a bolton actuator upgrade for us.

PM'd.