scotty nm35

I use a machine vice, and sometimes the long nose pliers to hold the top while I tack it.

Why would you stick another ethanol pump right near the other stations? The map shows they are all stacked into the same area of Sydney...

Haha, I have seen that done with fuel regs also. It works I guess, and I do like free mods.

It would also make the car a pig to drive, unless you match it very well. Unfortunately getting the stator machined can be a little hit and miss from my experience.

I don't remember seeing it, but if I have time over the next few days I will remove the interior and have a look.

It is a knock off software, normally the original Nissan software would only run on a Toughbook, (yes I have tried to install it.) The Chinese have hacked it to work on anything. I also bought the UK software (on ebay) that allows reprogramming/flashing of the ecu's, and Nats reprogramming etc.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/113284-fixing-your-rb26-afms/ There may be a gtst one also, but they are much the same. It is usually the pins from the plug that get dry solder joints from vibration.

It is the Nissan Consult 3 software, it can do everything you could ever want it to, if you can find the menu in the tree. Supports OBD2 and Consult plugs. Consult 3+ is a much easier program to use, but the 3+ readers are still drug money for some reason.

Most probably the AFM, try the 'how to' on re-soldering the pins.

At a guess, I doubt you bled the air out of the system.

No it won't.

This RS4 I worked on made some great noises... Not a fan. Sorry.

Japan? Try Jesse Streeter, or Import Monster.

Yes, but a HFC is just the cat, no flanges to bolt up to your manifold or Y pipe. They need to be welded in a jig to match the stock pipes exactly. If you don't know what you are buying, there is a good chance you will get ripped. If the quotes are too expensive, perhaps you could fork out for all the equipment to make them yourself?

Yes, some pumps don't like the low power the stock fuel computer puts out at cruise and idle. You can try running a temporary direct power feed, or just do the fuel pump rewire with a relay to prove the fault.

If you have a meter or test light you can easily check the power feed. No idea if the motor is the same as 350z, it should be the same as M35 Stagea. I have already sold my spare two off my Stagea wreck though.

They should still hold air pressure.

Stainless HFC's are expensive, good ones anyway. My cost is around $200 each. At a guess the price is pretty good, depending on what they make for you. I had to cad up the stainless flanges off the manifold and get them laser cut for the job, I doubt they will be going that far though, they will probably try and re-use the oem flange. I really need to Jig these up, there is obviously a market here right?

You would be surprised, I have shoved over 20psi into one without issue. They expand quite a bit. If it fails just hit me up for an 80mm alloy intake.

I spun up a proper alloy plug with a step so the hose clamp doesn't pop off, the hose runs to a gauge and trigger setup. I can tell you, at 40psi there is not much chance of sealing all the leaks, unless you glued them perhaps. Most would say it's overkill to pump that much in, but I run nearly 3 bar at gearchange. If you are worried about the AFM, take it out of the equation, why would you run it in the system anyway? Just remove the afm/airbox, stick the bung in, and pressurize.

Oh, so you want to display engine data? I am using the Greddy informeter touch, good little unit and works on our cars, but it doesn't output data afaik. Another option is the HKS Camp 2 which is the older reader, then the best option, HKS ob-link for android. It is a bluetooth dongle. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/417761-m35-obdii-torque/?hl=%2Bm35+%2Bandroid

Not that I know of. The interior is stripped and is stuffed into the back of the car, I have had it out before but I don't remember seeing that part.

Bong testing costs coin, why would he need it now all the leaks are taken care of? The small leak you have is no issue, if it is holding 5 psi for 20-30 seconds it is fine. Don't be scared to pump a little more in, I run 40psi in mine when testing, but I don't have the dodgy stock intake pipe like yours does Shoujiki.

I am talking massive cylinder pressure, not DET, but on 98 you are probably correct.

The Neo comes out clean I assume? Clean means the detergents aren't working well, which probably means it is more of a race engine oil.