Kinkstaah

Oh btw, if you are looking to sell this car, I know someone who is looking to buy it. (after missing out on the QLD one with all this already done to it, like you did :p) He's still trying to track that car down though.

You can always use the Red's for street use, to get them consumed. Mate of mine loves Red Stuffs, claims he has no fade, but has only done a few track days in his BMW. Oh, his BMW is a 1000kg E21 with about 200kw. :p For Skylines, I've always thought that the MINIMUM for track adventuring was orange, or significantly higher. But I am a noob and brake way too hard and have melted nearly every pad in like 1-2 laps. You may need a more abrasive track pad to wear down brake pad deposits, so if you do get track pads, run them on the street for a little bit of time to clean up your rotors, then put your road pads on and bed them in. Sounds silly, but does work.

I'd just guess at the usual suspects really. There's not that much to a braking system movement wise and everything has to be right or you get shudder or what feels like warping. In my case we were talking the wheel moving 100mm in every direction 5 times a second (it was ROUGH), like driving over train tracks continuously or something. I used to get gnarly shudder when pads got warm, and it turns out the actual pad was the wrong (yet also compatible?) size. This probably isn't your issue, and another issue should feel something through the pedal, - fade if the pads are way too hot, or a spongy pedal if your fluid has got way too hot etc. Also because BMW it could be weird BMW abs shit

As it currently stands, you have a S15 rear end. Keep in mind if you do something fancy like put R34 GTT shafts back there you may need to do something fun with your wheel speed sensors to keep ABS, as the GT has a different ABS setup to the GTT. (it is like the S15). The simplest way is to put a helical diff in there from a S15. A more sturdy way given what you have is to consider a Nismo diff of appropriate lockage (i.e get the pro with different cams to go between 1 and 2 way). The final way is to convert to something else, but keep in mind what you'll need to do with wheel speed sensors (i.e you will need to do what S15 people do).

Well, when it's time to get really serious at the track, you now know you have enough adjustability!

Fab9 kit is bolt and away you go. You'd be crazy to consider another motor and that motor not be a 2.5 if you want N/A!

The controller works by measuring your current boost from a boost source. It *has* to be connected to a source of boost. Without this, it cannot function. You cannot boost a car without this either. It is a requirement to have a boost source for a boost controller to function. Boost controllers function by sensing a level of boost, and diverting a portion of that air pressure away from the wastegate. So your charge piping may be at 25psi, but as far as your wastegate knows, it is being fed 15psi, where the spring starts to open. This is how your engine gets fed 25psi as opposed to 15psi which is known as 'spring pressure' or 'gate pressure'. If you get your source from the turbo housing, or before the intercooler, you will see less boost in your manifold, because the controller is going to be using that pre-cooled, pre-pressure lost source as it's source of truth. To avoid this, you get a source after your intercooler has done it's thing, but it HAS to be before the throttle body, which is why people almost universally use a nipple on the charge piping, before the throttle body. You do not want your boost source to be seeing vacuum inside the manifold itself, this is to avoid your boost controller trying to do much when it sees your "boost" at a negative value. Like most things car tuning, you want the tuning to be doing as little as possible, for maximum accuracy.

My answer is NEITHER. Get a G series Garrett. They are physically smaller. They will mount low. They will easily outperform either. G30-660 or something similar. Done. https://www.efisolutions.com.au/garrett-g-series-g30-660-turbo-t3-flange-0.83-a-r

If you want to be pedantic and justify it. Higher pressure means it needs to be a higher temperature to boil over. In the real world, it absolutely won't matter at all. You can also tell yourself that an alloy radiator can handle higher pressure than one with 20 year old plastic tanks (it will).

I'm gonna go with don't get a radiator cap... get a radiator. You'll need one eventually like any 20 year old plastic heat cycled thing :p

I mean ideally trims are there because base tables are never 100% accurate. You want them to be as accurate as you can possibly get them, but temperature variations, different altitude, heat, everything likes to mess with how accurate a base table can be. Fuel trims and Narrowband/Wideband fuel control exist to realistically fill this gap/fuzzy factor, and do their job great. But while they will drag your AFR/Lambda to a target, you want them to have to do as little work as possible. Don't tweak any of this stuff without a wideband. Unless it's something like "Disable 'Ghost Cam' because it's very obvious when looking into the Tune", you are guessing with regards to your AFR. You are absolutely right and it's far better to spend the money on a Wideband controller (especially with haltech) and the fab to get it plumbed in NOT where the narrowbands sit (it is supposed to be 1 meter from the turbo), and teach yourself all this little finicky stuff. This is stuff no tuner can ever really be expected to get perfect, but the owner of the car will see SO much livability improvements by learning and tweaking these things - With the proper tools. It IS the difference between "Oh yeah my tuned car drives a bit like a tuned car" and "My car drives like a factory car" It does take a lot of time and tweaking and fun, but you'd never want to be paying $150 an hour for someone else to spend that much time on it.

The easiest way I can explain it (and it's not a good explanation) is that you're creating backpressure. In effect, when you plumb your wastegate in you're effectively running a smaller exhaust than someone who isn't. We'd like to all think that it doesn't or shouldn't make a difference, but merging the pipes *does* make a difference. Even if you merge it waaay back. It just makes less difference. It will always flow better if the air from the screamer literally never re-enters the exhaust stream. A turbine wheel isn't exactly the most free-flowing of things when you think about it. What you 'want' is JUST enough exhaust flow to spin the turbine wheel up, then EVERY OTHER PIECE OF AIR to absolutely get out of the way of the exhaust stream. If it were me, I'd talk to a local fabricator and turn your merge into a removable screamer. Try it out and see.

I mean, dynos are different all around the globe. I went a little crazy troubleshooting why my setup is different to American setups. Ultimately they aren't. If Tao did a quarter mile run and you did, compare MPH at the quarter mark line. It's probably very comparable. Screamer pipes and external gates make massive differences in turbo setups when you need to run a lot of boost. It just gets harder to spin the turbine wheel if the pressure in there is massively high. There's IWG EWG EWG with screamer. I mean depending on whether you plumb your pipe back in, your External Gate may not really be 'external' when you think about it. It's just relocated from the turbo housing. Certain turbos handle these scenarios better than HG. Plenty of people have had the same setup, then thrown a Borg Warner or a Genuine Garrett on there and found that they have far more efficiency when brutally 'mistreated' in certain scenarios which can result in better results with a turbo swap too.

I never thought that there would be aftermarket rims (that are smaller) that still retain the stock airbag. Time to window shop!

Here's a result from the man himself. He ran 40psi to make 570kw. That said, replicating Tao's setup has always been contentious, at best. There's no doubt that car would have been externally gated, and assuming you have the same rear housing size Tao did in the above example, there's not much else that is different other than more boost, and having true external gates. That said, he is making your target (~450kw) at about 28psi of boost. External gates really do make a difference. If it's viable it's worth testing to see if you get instant results. I assume you have pretty much an open intake and/or straight pod being dyno'd with the hood up. What's your IAT's like at the end of the glory runs? Tao doesn't have that data but he's always run a pretty maxxed out setup with his turbos being absolutely fully supported in every way. There's a lot of people upset with HG turbos, because they don't have the same test setup that Tao uses when he showcases the turbos, and their results don't come out the same.

Oh you sweet summer child. This is a quiet engine bay and a booming exhaust where I'm from lol. Sometimes I do miss the RB.

When you say you wanted the idle to be 'chunky'... I assume you meant you want it to be choppy and cammy like a V8. (or similar). The thing about that is, well, the engine is running chunky because effectively it is running like shit. It doesn't really matter when the car isn't moving, because the transmission and wheels aren't connected to the 'chunky' or 'lumpy' engine. But when you connect that 'chunky' or 'lumpy' idle to the wheels via a clutch, the motor is still running like chunky lumpy mess, and bucking and surging is what happens all the way through the drivetrain, because... the engine is still running like shit. The root cause for this is big cammed V8's sacrifice running at low RPM so they run better under load. They aren't choppy and angry sounding at high RPM.. and they aren't sounding 'bad' up there either. Haltechs are pretty good units. It's entirely possible to have parameters set for idle based on road speed. So you can have your lumpy choppyness at 0kmh, and a regular idle at 1kmh if that is what you want. This is a poster child for having access to your own ECU to see what your car is doing, but you can then obviously make a whole bunch of problems worse if you're not too familiar with what you're changing. Also, our friend antilag/pops and bangs is achieved by having fuel set to YES and timing set to "Something different" at zero throttle. Usually way, way different, i.e -15deg of timing. If the car is in a map it shouldn't be in because a parameter is slightly off, or a sensor isn't quite calibrated perfectly, well, um, you could have unexpected consequences like this. Imagine how the car would attempt to accelerate if if the engine is mid-mid pops and bangs and misfires.

I mean what you should do in this case is datalog and find out what is actually occurring in this state. Is the car lunging because it's lean (Probably), or timing is doing weird things? Worth seeing what the ECU is actually attempting to do and then sorting it out from there. These things aren't cammed V8's (ask me how I know) so it should be very smooth cruising around at 600rpm in gear. Once you're in gear, the clutch you have is taken out of the equation, as is your drive shaft, and diff. You're all dependent on the smoothness of the 6cyl up front, which should be very smooth. This is going to require datalogging to determine what the ECU thinks is happening and better correlating it to what is actually occurring. It could be any of the very many systems throwing too much/not enough fuel and too much/not enough timing.

Doesn't look like the catch can fittings are going to be very fun with the throttle body (and pipe). Are they on different planes?

The thing about the above is that the R34 already has a triple gauge cluster for this. Though you could run 3 _more_ which is what I used to do back in the day. But you do start to run out of things to monitor. Ultimately the stock ECU is kinda limited. You end up eventually replacing the stock ECU then start picking up gauges and displays that interface with the ECU you end up going with.

It absolutely, 100% can come out. Every time I took it out and put it back in in the past I had to re-familiarize myself with how it came out. When it's the right angle, it actually comes out very easily.

It is actually a bit dicky to slide out. I'm assuming you removed all the bolts on it :p It does require a certain angle to go in/come out. When you line it up right you will see it will just slide out. You may need to take off the coupler for the throttle body to get the clearance. You may need to remove the engine cover's bracket as well. There's a fair bit of angles and a bit of twisting to get it to slide out which I assume is the issue here.

Good job man! One of the things I was most excited about was when the JDM and USA plates came out in Vic for the Skylines, as the actual cutout of the bumpers actually matched the dimensions of the plate, f**king finally.

I mean to do it right you need to measure. The only thing really to consider is where the wheel will be sitting relative to your current wheel, and whether you will have clearance for brakes. Your front wheels will sit 5mm further in-board than your current rims. (offset 35 vs 30). The rears will sit 9.4mm further in-board from the outside of the car, and give you 3.4mm more clearance on the inside. It's smaller on both sides because it's a slimmer rim (10in vs 9.5in) willtheyfit.com is a great resource to use to determine where one set of wheels will sit relative to another future set. If you really really like your new design, you could put a 5mm spacer up front, and a 10mm spacer at the rear, and they'll sit where your current wheels sit. No idea if spacers are legal in the UK. I'd still argue it's best to find wheels that do fit. I'm confident whatever this is, is also on the money.

This is a car that should not be being driven around. Also, an untuned car running rich due to mods is... never a thing. Also, driving an untuned car long enough that you're inspecting the oil is all sorts of wrong. You are speedrunning the Car-Darwin awards here dude. I get it, you want to have fun and be cool in shiny toy.