Kinkstaah

You shouldn't be doing anything but driving the car to the tuner, off boost. Doing this could well be within the boundries of comparing: "Does my oil go black faster" and "Do the pistons usually stay inside the engine?"

I want to say that Haltech can be used with ODBII tools nowadays. Kinda useful if you want your head unit to do other things as well, like maps, music, phone calls.. *and* digital gauges. Stock ECU does not use ODBII. I don't think a R34 is going to have any head unit that reads OEM ECU's to display.... the things the gauges already display. (boost, battery voltage, oil temperature, oil pressure)

So.... Why'd you do it? Just for weight loss?

Also, when it comes to HP and Reliability, it REALLY depends on your use case. And you have to be honest. You also need to remember there's basically 0% chance of a reliable, 600HP RB25 that is doing 1 track day a month for multiple years. If you're cruising around on a twisty road and spend a cumulative 15 seconds of full throttle use a month, your definition of reliable will change drastically.

Okay, well, I don't disagree with what you say GTSBoy... Too often in road cars people just go ALL STIFF because it's more responsive feeling but it doesn't always equate to actually having more grip. Squat is a good example. As you've seen, racecars have big sidewalls for a reason, because the tyre itself is part of the suspension geometry which is often overlooked in a world of fitment and really harsh/fixed everything else(s). I am yet to see a road tyre be selected for how it's carcass and stiffness works with regards to suspension geometry. (I know it is in racing for all the reasons given above). But I also have poly everything, and managed to dislodge my diff bushings somehow. So I have rubber ones in there now myself :p

I mean... what movement do you mean? There's no free lunch here. If you take the slop out of bushes then it will get transmitted to the road. The reason drift cars have stiff everything is so that there's nothing absorbing anything between the engine and the road, but make no mistake they have less traction due to it. So when you say 'movement' if you want the side to kick out less, then this won't help. It'll potentially make it more predictable for the driver (you) though.

How is it "ASAP" before the wheels have even been made? If someone is out there making the wheels they should have diagrams of spacing for brake calipers and all other stuff for people in the very first run of a set of rims to consider. Anyway, here's a link from this forum with R33 GTR wheels on a R32 GTST. And here's a post from you, in that thread, with the same question. They won't poke out the front. They're 2mm further in from the fender. Get 18x9 +30 all round and call it a day. Or 18x9 +28 all round and call it a day. Then it'll look the same. If the +30 set and the +28 set have different faces, well, that's when you get into asking them for diagrams for brake caliper clearance.

Yeah, but... how much skinner is it? 5mm? 10mm?

This was relating to R33/R34. I don't know with regards to R32's. There's probably some difference between R33/R34 and R32 that is known, but not by me :p

Wouldn't it be of the power range where a larger cam is more beneficial that is not VCT friendly? Generally speaking I'm ALL for smaller cams and VCT, but I am not making 1000HP in a time attack car. This could actually be an application where a larger camshaft that isn't VCT capable may actually have a use case.

>complete amateur >1:24 at Winton laggy massive HP RWD R32 I dunno about the first part I would argue this use case probably doesn't need VCT, won't be in the rev range that it would ever be active!

Ah, LS time then.

Amayama are good and ship stuff fairly frequently. There's also Kudos and Taarks in Australia, but people rarely stock these things unless they are super common, so buying random bits and bobs (while we still can) is a bit of the R chassis lifestyle. So at least you've figured out what it does, it opens up on full lock to counter the load of the pump dragging your idle down. If that's not a big issue you may never want to fix it. If your OCD kicks in you may want to fix it just because. But now you know what it is, and how it works, and whether you need to fix it.

Playing devil's advocate, upping the fuel pump severely while using stock gear can actually raise the fuel pressure because it overpowers the reg. The thing is, to really confirm this, you install a FPR gauge, and usually that also comes with a regulator.... so nobody knows whether this actually is overpowering the stock regulator or not. Suppose that scenario is not a stock car tho.

You have a series 2. That is a normal series 2 bumper. It has that design for GT, GTV and GT-T trims. The GT-T Series 2 bumper will have a vent on the passenger side, which is where the intercooler is mounted. Here's a pic from your own thread. If you want a S1 bumper, you will also need to buy the headlight support brackets as they are understandably different. If you want to fit a front mount intercooler one day, PM ME because you need to cut up some brackets from the OEM reinforcement bar. I would love to have an unmolested reinforcement bar and you can have my pre-cut one :p

Okay it seems there's a slight design difference there with the hex which will do nothing at all. The ones I had were the EFI Solutions round ones. I was able ratchet the nuts with huge torque and they were flat and FIRMLY into it. You could say they became part of the lid, given they physically melted into it. It doesn't get any more firmly attached than that! The heat generated is enough to melt the plastic insulators. I agree, you would think Walbro would use wiring in their own pump with enough gauge to handle the heat their own product creates, but it just doesn't seem to be the case long term. I suppose it's possible that mine only shifted towards the end of their 10 year life before melting through, but that said... it can shift again, a nut can come loose again. The solution is a different type of plug, that is held in mechanically and can't shake loose and self-create a bad connection.

These are the ones that I melted. You need the FPR kit, nothing else will work. :p

I mean, if the motor stock and you have a boost leak, (like a pipe has come off etc) you will barely able to move. I don't mean "drives like a 2002 corolla" I mean barely able to move the car at *all* That gauge is (mostly) normal. I say mostly because with a stock turbo and stock everything working normally, you'll hit that green line very easily/quickly. It's not like it will only finally reach there at 5000+RPM after slowly building to it. It it *does* behave like that, then you have a leak. If it doesn't, and the boost gauge is more or less pinned there any time you're on the throttle from ~2000rpm upward, then this is normal - the cars run 7psi stock. That's right between 0 and +1KG/CM (which is 14.22psi) If it's a manual, they do 0-100 back in 1998 of about ~6.1s to 100. The autos are about 7s.

Lol. I mean. Yeah you should hear some degree of turbo sound, which is exactly what you think it sounds like, compressed air moving places. Are you actually making boost? Your car has a boost gauge. Is it indicating it is building boost, or not?

FYI. I have a R34, not a R33. I noticed that the stock gauge would be middle at 104C. Then completely pegged to H at 105. It moves gradually between middle and hot, it physically takes time to move. (same as it takes time to move from cold to OK) It only has 3 actual settings, "Too cold", "OK" and "Too Hot"

It sounds like a misfire. RB's go surprisingly good on 5cyl. The easiest way is to have your car idling, and unplug a coilpack or an injector and see/find which one doesn't make the sound change. That's your problem cylinder. The consult cable means you don't have to actually unplug stuff, can turn it off electronically.

Hey OP, wheels look good, previous owner had the right idea, drive and enjoy car

I also found that entirely dead ones with maybe a little cord showing sound exactly as loud as brand new ones.

I recently got 15,000km from my RS4's! And got a new set recently. By recently, it... was just over a year ago now. Shut up, I have reasons as to why these tyres are still near new. Anyway with regards to the previous ones, pressure them up. Drive them around gently on the street at ~36 psi and they do tend to last longer. I don't know how many track days I had them for, I want to say a couple but obviously that varies a significant amount for a lot of variables. A friend got 35,000-40,000KM out of his AD08R (!??!?!?!) and his tip was to raise the pressures on them for road driving which helped in my case, but obviously the other big factor is driving with the fuel economy mindset of someone who runs higher pressures in your tyres too.