Kinkstaah

WHAT IF I TOLD YOU........ That said, for 'fun cruising' there nothing that beats a MX5. 2.5L N/A would be just peak. Nobody needs anything more, and nearly nothing is more fun. Reject what other people say and go with your heart, if nobody is watching... EVERYONE likes a MX5 with the roof down, if they fit in it. Commo great if you want to shuttle multiple people around in comfort and hear rumble. If you do not need this facility, then, well...

It appears that work has commenced and this work shop is doing work, and selling that work for money, like some kind of a work shop. Bare metal vents and fenders are no longer bare metal, which is great with that whole 'turning into rust rapidly' problem. The panels look to be fitted, though I don't know how permament this is. Given I drove by a few days ago and saw the whole side of the car sanded down (but no panels fitted) they are probably permamently affixed now: Rear bar and skirts look like they fit and line up as god intended, which is nice. Rear lip has been removed and filled in, and can see the templates they are using to mount the wing back there, instead of just drilling and eyeballing it which is nice lol. And I did buy the brake light for the S1 which lines up with the OEM hole, Nissan just uses some tunnel thing to get the light to the light inside the lip which isn't really a light, directly. I was smart enough to test this before I dropped the car off :p They have also installed (this is temporary tac welds for testing) the bracket I came up with, and made something for the other side, in the event that some idiot cut those brackets off to fit an intercooler at some point in the past. They also have moved my oil cooler back, so that it is no longer hanging off the headlight support. There was a bit of forcing the front bumper on there in the past. I mentioned it to them because I can see paint people finally finishing up a front bar then wincing if they have to force the damn thing on in a weird way. Now there's plenty of clearance for OEM levels of fitment and gaps which is just nice. I do wonder how low that will actually sit with a bumper on and such, but it wouldn't be a massive task to move it up a little, or a different angle in the future given there is literally nothing in this space for now. Until I get talked into getting a dry sump tank made and fitted in that entire space, after going to WTAC...

Oh btw, if you are looking to sell this car, I know someone who is looking to buy it. (after missing out on the QLD one with all this already done to it, like you did :p) He's still trying to track that car down though.

You can always use the Red's for street use, to get them consumed. Mate of mine loves Red Stuffs, claims he has no fade, but has only done a few track days in his BMW. Oh, his BMW is a 1000kg E21 with about 200kw. :p For Skylines, I've always thought that the MINIMUM for track adventuring was orange, or significantly higher. But I am a noob and brake way too hard and have melted nearly every pad in like 1-2 laps. You may need a more abrasive track pad to wear down brake pad deposits, so if you do get track pads, run them on the street for a little bit of time to clean up your rotors, then put your road pads on and bed them in. Sounds silly, but does work.

I'd just guess at the usual suspects really. There's not that much to a braking system movement wise and everything has to be right or you get shudder or what feels like warping. In my case we were talking the wheel moving 100mm in every direction 5 times a second (it was ROUGH), like driving over train tracks continuously or something. I used to get gnarly shudder when pads got warm, and it turns out the actual pad was the wrong (yet also compatible?) size. This probably isn't your issue, and another issue should feel something through the pedal, - fade if the pads are way too hot, or a spongy pedal if your fluid has got way too hot etc. Also because BMW it could be weird BMW abs shit

As it currently stands, you have a S15 rear end. Keep in mind if you do something fancy like put R34 GTT shafts back there you may need to do something fun with your wheel speed sensors to keep ABS, as the GT has a different ABS setup to the GTT. (it is like the S15). The simplest way is to put a helical diff in there from a S15. A more sturdy way given what you have is to consider a Nismo diff of appropriate lockage (i.e get the pro with different cams to go between 1 and 2 way). The final way is to convert to something else, but keep in mind what you'll need to do with wheel speed sensors (i.e you will need to do what S15 people do).

Well, when it's time to get really serious at the track, you now know you have enough adjustability!

Fab9 kit is bolt and away you go. You'd be crazy to consider another motor and that motor not be a 2.5 if you want N/A!

The controller works by measuring your current boost from a boost source. It *has* to be connected to a source of boost. Without this, it cannot function. You cannot boost a car without this either. It is a requirement to have a boost source for a boost controller to function. Boost controllers function by sensing a level of boost, and diverting a portion of that air pressure away from the wastegate. So your charge piping may be at 25psi, but as far as your wastegate knows, it is being fed 15psi, where the spring starts to open. This is how your engine gets fed 25psi as opposed to 15psi which is known as 'spring pressure' or 'gate pressure'. If you get your source from the turbo housing, or before the intercooler, you will see less boost in your manifold, because the controller is going to be using that pre-cooled, pre-pressure lost source as it's source of truth. To avoid this, you get a source after your intercooler has done it's thing, but it HAS to be before the throttle body, which is why people almost universally use a nipple on the charge piping, before the throttle body. You do not want your boost source to be seeing vacuum inside the manifold itself, this is to avoid your boost controller trying to do much when it sees your "boost" at a negative value. Like most things car tuning, you want the tuning to be doing as little as possible, for maximum accuracy.

My answer is NEITHER. Get a G series Garrett. They are physically smaller. They will mount low. They will easily outperform either. G30-660 or something similar. Done. https://www.efisolutions.com.au/garrett-g-series-g30-660-turbo-t3-flange-0.83-a-r

If you want to be pedantic and justify it. Higher pressure means it needs to be a higher temperature to boil over. In the real world, it absolutely won't matter at all. You can also tell yourself that an alloy radiator can handle higher pressure than one with 20 year old plastic tanks (it will).

I'm gonna go with don't get a radiator cap... get a radiator. You'll need one eventually like any 20 year old plastic heat cycled thing :p

I mean ideally trims are there because base tables are never 100% accurate. You want them to be as accurate as you can possibly get them, but temperature variations, different altitude, heat, everything likes to mess with how accurate a base table can be. Fuel trims and Narrowband/Wideband fuel control exist to realistically fill this gap/fuzzy factor, and do their job great. But while they will drag your AFR/Lambda to a target, you want them to have to do as little work as possible. Don't tweak any of this stuff without a wideband. Unless it's something like "Disable 'Ghost Cam' because it's very obvious when looking into the Tune", you are guessing with regards to your AFR. You are absolutely right and it's far better to spend the money on a Wideband controller (especially with haltech) and the fab to get it plumbed in NOT where the narrowbands sit (it is supposed to be 1 meter from the turbo), and teach yourself all this little finicky stuff. This is stuff no tuner can ever really be expected to get perfect, but the owner of the car will see SO much livability improvements by learning and tweaking these things - With the proper tools. It IS the difference between "Oh yeah my tuned car drives a bit like a tuned car" and "My car drives like a factory car" It does take a lot of time and tweaking and fun, but you'd never want to be paying $150 an hour for someone else to spend that much time on it.

The easiest way I can explain it (and it's not a good explanation) is that you're creating backpressure. In effect, when you plumb your wastegate in you're effectively running a smaller exhaust than someone who isn't. We'd like to all think that it doesn't or shouldn't make a difference, but merging the pipes *does* make a difference. Even if you merge it waaay back. It just makes less difference. It will always flow better if the air from the screamer literally never re-enters the exhaust stream. A turbine wheel isn't exactly the most free-flowing of things when you think about it. What you 'want' is JUST enough exhaust flow to spin the turbine wheel up, then EVERY OTHER PIECE OF AIR to absolutely get out of the way of the exhaust stream. If it were me, I'd talk to a local fabricator and turn your merge into a removable screamer. Try it out and see.

I mean, dynos are different all around the globe. I went a little crazy troubleshooting why my setup is different to American setups. Ultimately they aren't. If Tao did a quarter mile run and you did, compare MPH at the quarter mark line. It's probably very comparable. Screamer pipes and external gates make massive differences in turbo setups when you need to run a lot of boost. It just gets harder to spin the turbine wheel if the pressure in there is massively high. There's IWG EWG EWG with screamer. I mean depending on whether you plumb your pipe back in, your External Gate may not really be 'external' when you think about it. It's just relocated from the turbo housing. Certain turbos handle these scenarios better than HG. Plenty of people have had the same setup, then thrown a Borg Warner or a Genuine Garrett on there and found that they have far more efficiency when brutally 'mistreated' in certain scenarios which can result in better results with a turbo swap too.

I never thought that there would be aftermarket rims (that are smaller) that still retain the stock airbag. Time to window shop!

Here's a result from the man himself. He ran 40psi to make 570kw. That said, replicating Tao's setup has always been contentious, at best. There's no doubt that car would have been externally gated, and assuming you have the same rear housing size Tao did in the above example, there's not much else that is different other than more boost, and having true external gates. That said, he is making your target (~450kw) at about 28psi of boost. External gates really do make a difference. If it's viable it's worth testing to see if you get instant results. I assume you have pretty much an open intake and/or straight pod being dyno'd with the hood up. What's your IAT's like at the end of the glory runs? Tao doesn't have that data but he's always run a pretty maxxed out setup with his turbos being absolutely fully supported in every way. There's a lot of people upset with HG turbos, because they don't have the same test setup that Tao uses when he showcases the turbos, and their results don't come out the same.

Oh you sweet summer child. This is a quiet engine bay and a booming exhaust where I'm from lol. Sometimes I do miss the RB.

When you say you wanted the idle to be 'chunky'... I assume you meant you want it to be choppy and cammy like a V8. (or similar). The thing about that is, well, the engine is running chunky because effectively it is running like shit. It doesn't really matter when the car isn't moving, because the transmission and wheels aren't connected to the 'chunky' or 'lumpy' engine. But when you connect that 'chunky' or 'lumpy' idle to the wheels via a clutch, the motor is still running like chunky lumpy mess, and bucking and surging is what happens all the way through the drivetrain, because... the engine is still running like shit. The root cause for this is big cammed V8's sacrifice running at low RPM so they run better under load. They aren't choppy and angry sounding at high RPM.. and they aren't sounding 'bad' up there either. Haltechs are pretty good units. It's entirely possible to have parameters set for idle based on road speed. So you can have your lumpy choppyness at 0kmh, and a regular idle at 1kmh if that is what you want. This is a poster child for having access to your own ECU to see what your car is doing, but you can then obviously make a whole bunch of problems worse if you're not too familiar with what you're changing. Also, our friend antilag/pops and bangs is achieved by having fuel set to YES and timing set to "Something different" at zero throttle. Usually way, way different, i.e -15deg of timing. If the car is in a map it shouldn't be in because a parameter is slightly off, or a sensor isn't quite calibrated perfectly, well, um, you could have unexpected consequences like this. Imagine how the car would attempt to accelerate if if the engine is mid-mid pops and bangs and misfires.

I mean what you should do in this case is datalog and find out what is actually occurring in this state. Is the car lunging because it's lean (Probably), or timing is doing weird things? Worth seeing what the ECU is actually attempting to do and then sorting it out from there. These things aren't cammed V8's (ask me how I know) so it should be very smooth cruising around at 600rpm in gear. Once you're in gear, the clutch you have is taken out of the equation, as is your drive shaft, and diff. You're all dependent on the smoothness of the 6cyl up front, which should be very smooth. This is going to require datalogging to determine what the ECU thinks is happening and better correlating it to what is actually occurring. It could be any of the very many systems throwing too much/not enough fuel and too much/not enough timing.

Doesn't look like the catch can fittings are going to be very fun with the throttle body (and pipe). Are they on different planes?

The thing about the above is that the R34 already has a triple gauge cluster for this. Though you could run 3 _more_ which is what I used to do back in the day. But you do start to run out of things to monitor. Ultimately the stock ECU is kinda limited. You end up eventually replacing the stock ECU then start picking up gauges and displays that interface with the ECU you end up going with.

It absolutely, 100% can come out. Every time I took it out and put it back in in the past I had to re-familiarize myself with how it came out. When it's the right angle, it actually comes out very easily.

It is actually a bit dicky to slide out. I'm assuming you removed all the bolts on it :p It does require a certain angle to go in/come out. When you line it up right you will see it will just slide out. You may need to take off the coupler for the throttle body to get the clearance. You may need to remove the engine cover's bracket as well. There's a fair bit of angles and a bit of twisting to get it to slide out which I assume is the issue here.

Good job man! One of the things I was most excited about was when the JDM and USA plates came out in Vic for the Skylines, as the actual cutout of the bumpers actually matched the dimensions of the plate, f**king finally.