Kinkstaah

Or you could Nistune, which is better in literally every way.

How can two ECU's that work perfectly on a R34 magically not work on a new car? But -5's are really never the answer for anything, so I'll assume it's a 26 in which case Nistune is the answer. Also, -9's are the answer. Also there's probably a plugin ECU for what you're doing. Seriously the only reason for PowerFC is "it already had a powerfc in it"

Should have bought my big single sedan The answer is Nistune OR the R34 plugin GTT ecu from Haltech. Has all the features you want and 0 wiring, easy to tune, local, etc. Hard to argue against.

The person you bought the engine from should know, I never got asked for the Rego for the engine that I provided, ever. They just ran the number to make sure the engine wasn't flagged as stolen. Have changed engine numbers at Vicroads like 4-5 times now. Never once got asked for the rego of the car the engine came from. Also no reason to remove Nistune ever, so the best way to remove it is not remove it.

Hi folks - I registered but it looks like I will need to cancel as 'may be right for Friday' isn't enough for me to just eat the entry fee. As the event isn't full, is it possible to change from pre-paid to pay on the day (provided the event does not fill?) Was looking forward to rolling my car or embedding it into a wall for all to see Apologies if too late to cancel/refund now. Only paid yesterday. Unsure of who to contact/call for this kind of thing!

OK...I'll pay that.. It is pretty clear a lot of the Facebook group queries certainly consult FB before google..

True, its probably best you can either a) Vouch for the car/owner and b) Absolutely know what you are looking at. It can obviously burn you badly, but if you know what you are doing its the way forward. However usually done through having been burned in the past, but hey 99% of people here on SAU will know what they are doing regarding other people's projects and know when to spot a bad apple

until you mod it and hey look, planned mods!

To be fair, car has been pretty damn reliable once the somewhat important head stud was the actual correct part. TWAS A BARGAIN.

I told you what you should do if you were gonna mod a 34 sedan or Stagea, Moh.... (the answer is: Don't) Or if you must, buy someone else's project, the bigger the project the bigger the savings.

Whoops, turbos are infact listed!

Was just referring to this post here ->: Yes that is the whole setup, but you kind of need a whole setup to get one of these going.

Obviously having power is an important part of the equation. But it's still only a part of the equation. If you took the savings on not buying an EFR and put them anywhere else, you may get a faster, more reliable, more 'known', more 'cheaper to replace' car as a result of it. The EFR seems to be super amazo. It does. But people who swap from anything old say this too. You can see evidence of it above, people who have something "good" don't really want to pull it off and test something else good, because the 6266 makes people happy enough. This is probably why people bolt on their whatever and get a happy result then never post again or CERTAINLY don't want to pay 7K!!!! to do a back to back test. So people don't. So that's why there's no results

I don't think there's really a lot of sense comparing -5's to anything modern. Really the -5 and -7/-9 are older tech and of course they'll get punted by newer tech. Whats more interesting to me is the comparison made just now, with the 6262 (on a 2.6) vs a RB30 with an EFR8374. The fact those are actually even comparable is somewhat alarming because this thread would have you believe the 8374 with 0.4 more displacement should blast a 6262 into the weeds, but it doesn't. A 6262 is also comparable to a wound-up GTX3582 with a decent manifold as well. The "-5's vs GTX3582" that Motive did also showed a lot of the benefits that are discussed in this thread about how much "Betteretrerer" it was, even if it was 'only' 0.4 faster down the strip (mainly due to more powers) An argument could be made if the -5's with GTX2863 or GTX2867 cores were compared to an EFR, GTX3582, or Precision 6466/6266. I feel those comparisons would be a lot closer, because it's really more about "-5/-7/-9s" vs "NOT -5/-7/-9" There's also the element of how much "faster" really is faster in the real world. Would John Richardson beat that time in the Tarmac Rally posted just now in his ~320kw R33 with a Hypergear on it? That would insinuate bang for buck the EFR is a complete joke if your goal is to go fast. As a result, the only results you can ever really get are "feels" from people who have directly upgraded... from something modern to something else modern. that has happened....how many times exactly? 0?

For me it was 45kw lol. But my lid had no modifications and the difference was lid off/on back to back. My VCT was also not working, so fixing that got power on 800rpm earlier. So it pays to test all setups! I have made a solution to get mine going that looks stocker than that box, but still curious to know what it was. I was lucky that the seat of the pants feel was massively different (and so was boost) so it was very obvious for me to test my 'fix' Also worth noting I am auto. So if you make about 400 on a manual the lid will work. I was making about 365kw with the lid on and 410 with it off and the car decided to just run 28psi instead of 21. The restriction was real. That said it's still fine in my experience for any turbo on a 25 that wouldn't be too laggy to actually want.

What is that airbox for the 34? Setup always matters for results. I actually just found myself how much restriction the airbox can be at 400+. Though, my blitz fmic is still going strong.

I'm interested in this cause cheap tow home to Glen Waverley

Should that happen you can rest easy Rekin and put my engine directly into your car for the low low price of three hundred times the cost of a GTST

but whooshes m8 it says 40rwkw on the box

So I actually picked up 40rwkw by putting a pod filter on. I also picked up 750rpm of peak power response by having VCT actually work. I guess it pays to test shit. Also pretty sure gonna die soon due to above two things.

Thanks mate, I sent you a PM!

It was about 370 but through an auto, which makes it more responsive in terms of power to road speed that's for sure. Also a RB28 which has had quite a lot of work.. so I don't think my setup is really that comparable to the OP. But for pure power, I suppose it is. On a standard RB25 with a manual (IMO) with a 7k rev limit it's just not enough of a powerband. RB26 maybe cause they can rev to 8k. The extra 1000RPM of rev band makes the difference for me. RB30 probably just fine which is why you see it a lot. However if I was going to that extreme I'd personally get a Borg Warner and love life. The GTX3582 is about as big as you can fit to a stock manifold which is kind of how mine ended up there low mounted, my engine bay is exceptionally boring.

If it's a 2.5 it'll be pretty nuggetty. I have this turbo and on my 98 tune is about what WARLORD mentioned just now. 400kw at about ~23psi. Mind you, its a RB28 and not a RB25/30. So like always your results will vary.

Would you swap for a RB28 turbo sedan with a violent amount of cash in the other direction (assuming you wanted to mod said sedan in the future?)

If Ferrari is doing it, it may actually be something that works.. Yes this would be a workaround where the gearbox isn't matched really for the engine. This is kind of an issue for skylines. I don't think it would actually nerf the power, if I could choose to have my gtx3076r making less power (still 400 in a manual...) or a GTX3582 which I can rev out to 7500, the 3582 had a much meatier power band. So even though the boost came on "later", I had more revs available to actually use it. I mean choking in the way of 120KW of lost power in the 500rpm from 5700 to 6200. The concept however is quite sound and yes I agree, get a turbo that's just nosing over/making peak power realistically where you're going to be revving/using the engine every day of the week. My throttle map/boost idea was only cause a) I could (yay haltech) b) I may need to with a 33gtst box c) Traction means it isn't any slower. End result would have it feel like a N/A engine and be extremely linear in power. I am fully aware that "more linear" really means "Less midrange" but if you're on the edge of grip at 75% throttle in the midrange anyway, there's no functional loss if you are 100% wot through that section and have your power more closely match what the tyre can actually keep in contact with the road. And it may not explode the gearbox. That said my auto has not exploded, and it has paddles to comfortably hold a gear anyway. Was just musing because the "GET A f**kING MANUAL" assaults me from all sides literally on a daily basis.